4035 won't start

[ranwin33]

My 4035 is dead in the field. Thought it might be battery so replaced it. Still nothing, no lights, no ignition, no electrical. I've checked fuses all are fine. Any ideas?

 

[Hooknline]

One of the fusible links between the battery and main harness could be bad

 

[ranwin33]

One of the fusible links between the battery and main harness could be bad

How would I be able to tell if it is bad?

Also, I have noticed over the past couple of weeks, the heater element light would only stay on a few seconds and then go out. Would this have anything to do with the electrical not working, or be a clue as to what might be wrong?

Thanks,

RW

 

[TomSeller]

Safety switches all working? All electrical connections clean and tight? Do you have an electrical multi- meter? Your owner's manual should list things to check as well.

 

[Shift4200]

Fell victim to this on an older Jeep Wrangler i had years back.

I beat my head against a wall for nearly a month with this. Turned out to be the positive battery terminal. Looked clean inside and out, everything was tight.... but the terminal was just bad.

Cheap fix, so def worth taking a peek.

-J

 

[Tkblacktail]

How would I be able to tell if it is bad?=QUOTE]

Start at the battery and follow the leads towards the key-switch. Most (if not all) DC electrical systems open and close when power is either added or taken away; take a 12V test light and make sure juice is moving to the key-switch, then from the switch to the relays (which is what opens and close). Sometimes, the relays are referred-to as "interrupters".

The test light needs a good ground; so I always verify the light's working order on the battery, I attach the ground to the (-) terminal and touch the (+) terminal with the probe. Once I am sure the light is working and I have a good ground, I'm ready to start digging.

I also use a simple multimeter (maybe with some longer wires for leads) and use it to check continuity; it is important to make sure no vehicle power is present before conducting the test. I believe the "Omega" symbol is the continuity-setting on most (if not all) multimeters.

If there is a break in the wire or assembly, there will be a "0" in the value, a higher number indicates how much continuity is present. A good way to get started with continuity tests is to practice with a piece of wire on a work bench; attach the red and black leads to either end and watch the read-out change.

When piercing the insulation on wires with the test-light probe (needle), never pierce against a metal surface because the probe may go all the way through the wire, strike the metal and short-out (blow another fuse).

It is also a bad idea to use the finger on the hand holding the wire as a backstop....OUCH!:mur:

After the test, I go back and apply liquid tape to all the test-light holes in the wire's insulation.

I hope this helps

 

[qball606]

make sure your PTO lever is fully in off position

How would I be able to tell if it is bad?=QUOTE]

Start at the battery and follow the leads towards the key-switch. Most (if not all) DC electrical systems open and close when power is either added or taken away; take a 12V test light and make sure juice is moving to the key-switch, then from the switch to the relays (which is what opens and close). Sometimes, the relays are referred-to as "interrupters".

The test light needs a good ground; so I always verify the light's working order on the battery, I attach the ground to the (-) terminal and touch the (+) terminal with the probe. Once I am sure the light is working and I have a good ground, I'm ready to start digging.

I also use a simple multimeter (maybe with some longer wires for leads) and use it to check continuity; it is important to make sure no vehicle power is present before conducting the test. I believe the "Omega" symbol is the continuity-setting on most (if not all) multimeters.

If there is a break in the wire or assembly, there will be a "0" in the value, a higher number indicates how much continuity is present. A good way to get started with continuity tests is to practice with a piece of wire on a work bench; attach the red and black leads to either end and watch the read-out change.

When piercing the insulation on wires with the test-light probe (needle), never pierce against a metal surface because the probe may go all the way through the wire, strike the metal and short-out (blow another fuse).

It is also a bad idea to use the finger on the hand holding the wire as a backstop....OUCH!:mur:

After the test, I go back and apply liquid tape to all the test-light holes in the wire's insulation.

I hope this helps

 

[ranwin33]

Thank you all who replied. I got the tractor started and am embarrassed to admit the problem.

I got out yesterday morning to start checking connections, etc. Of course I had to try and start it before doing anything, and it was still dead, but I inadvertently left the key in the on position. So I pop the hood and start with the battery cables. I noticed while I was checking the ground cable for corrosion where it ties into the tractor that when I'd move it I'd get a very faint clicking sound. So I tried to start the tractor again and realized the key was still on. I turned it off, and went back to the ground wire, this time I got no clicking, but when I went to try and start the tractor the battery charge light came on for a fraction of a second. That's when I remembered when I purchased a battery for my pickup the guy at the counter took a brush to the terminals and removed the grey coating on them. So off to the house I went to find some steel wool or fine grit sand paper. Got back to the tractor, polished the terminals, cleaned the inside of the cable connectors, hooked everything up and the tractor started right up.

I kicked myself all the way back to the barn.

 

[TomSeller]

Thank you all who replied. I got the tractor started and am embarrassed to admit the problem.

I got out yesterday morning to start checking connections, etc. Of course I had to try and start it before doing anything, and it was still dead, but I inadvertently left the key in the on position. So I pop the hood and start with the battery cables. I noticed while I was checking the ground cable for corrosion where it ties into the tractor that when I'd move it I'd get a very faint clicking sound. So I tried to start the tractor again and realized the key was still on. I turned it off, and went back to the ground wire, this time I got no clicking, but when I went to try and start the tractor the battery charge light came on for a fraction of a second. That's when I remembered when I purchased a battery for my pickup the guy at the counter took a brush to the terminals and removed the grey coating on them. So off to the house I went to find some steel wool or fine grit sand paper. Got back to the tractor, polished the terminals, cleaned the inside of the cable connectors, hooked everything up and the tractor started right up.

I kicked myself all the way back to the barn.

Good job!! Good connections are very important due to the high current draw on start up.

 

[Shift4200]

Thank you all who replied. I got the tractor started and am embarrassed to admit the problem.

I got out yesterday morning to start checking connections, etc. Of course I had to try and start it before doing anything, and it was still dead, but I inadvertently left the key in the on position. So I pop the hood and start with the battery cables. I noticed while I was checking the ground cable for corrosion where it ties into the tractor that when I'd move it I'd get a very faint clicking sound. So I tried to start the tractor again and realized the key was still on. I turned it off, and went back to the ground wire, this time I got no clicking, but when I went to try and start the tractor the battery charge light came on for a fraction of a second. That's when I remembered when I purchased a battery for my pickup the guy at the counter took a brush to the terminals and removed the grey coating on them. So off to the house I went to find some steel wool or fine grit sand paper. Got back to the tractor, polished the terminals, cleaned the inside of the cable connectors, hooked everything up and the tractor started right up.

I kicked myself all the way back to the barn.

Awesome, there's nothing better than a free fix, even if it does come with a self induced boot to the *****. Pretty sure I still have a few marks on mine from when I was fighting with my Jeep.

-J