4105 Rockshaft Control Lever Problem

[1M05]

The rockshaft lever that is used to raise the 3-point arms drops as soon as I let it go? If I hold it and raise the attachment most of the way up, it will stay up when I let go of the lever. If I pull the lever up just a small amount, it drops and lowers the attachment back to the ground as soon as I let it go of the lever. It's like it moves too freely. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[beenthere]

1M05
Sounds like just tightening the control lever will fix that for you. Tighten nut key # 9
Here is a schematic showing the 4 disk springs (washers) key # 11 that may just need to be tighter.
Had it happen on my 4300.. and have read others on TBN also had the problem. Let us know if that is a solution.

 

[1M05]

1M05
Sounds like just tightening the control lever will fix that for you. Tighten nut key # 9
Here is a schematic showing the 4 disk springs (washers) key # 11 that may just need to be tighter.
Had it happen on my 4300.. and have read others on TBN also had the problem. Let us know if that is a solution.

That's what I was looking for. Looked it over last night after plowing snow and could'nt see any way to adjust it. Didn't think of taking the lever off and looking there. You have to take off the two (#6) 10mm bolts to remove the lever to get to the nut (#9) 15mm.

 

[Wagtail]

1M05
Sounds like just tightening the control lever will fix that for you. Tighten nut key # 9
Here is a schematic showing the 4 disk springs (washers) key # 11 that may just need to be tighter.
Had it happen on my 4300.. and have read others on TBN also had the problem. Let us know if that is a solution.

Thanks beenthere.

This is another reason for perusing TBN... although I've not had this problem occur, it could. Fore warned is fore armed.

:thumbsup:

 

[wuntun]

I made a fix for this inherent problem, due to poor engineering. Tightening the nyloc nut will only make the lever very stiff, and will eventually just wear back to the same problem. This rework to the issue works the way it should have for a $25k machine. This fix makes the lever work properly where as if you move the lever 1/2" the 3ph moves precise and predicted, and STAYS where you leave it! http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/389204-perfect-hack-3ph-control-handle.html

 

[wuntun]

I forgot to add, take the nyloc nut off, pull the tube off, weld on washers, and lube with grease on the inside of tube and shaft upon reassembly. It should be smooth as silk to move the handle then.

 

[beenthere]

wuntun
I don't believe that is necessary..
I just snugged up the nut about 18 years ago, and my control lever has never caused another problem of being loose again. The design is there to cause some friction, and tightening too much will just cause more friction than necessary.
But the OP can do as he wishes..

 

[Tx Jim]

wuntun
I don't believe that is necessary..
I just snugged up the nut about 18 years ago, and my control lever has never caused another problem of being loose again. The design is there to cause some friction, and tightening too much will just cause more friction than necessary.
But the OP can do as he wishes..

I agree. I've witnessed what you described several times when I served as a dealer service manager

 

[wuntun]

wuntun
I don't believe that is necessary..
I just snugged up the nut about 18 years ago, and my control lever has never caused another problem of being loose again. The design is there to cause some friction, and tightening too much will just cause more friction than necessary.
But the OP can do as he wishes..

Don't believe what is necessary? Of course the design is to cause some friction, hence the friction/bellville washers. I never mentioned tightening up more or too much. In fact, my fix is to reduce the friction necessary, by making the tube piece stationary, so the washers are the parts that move against each other instead of the tube against the RSV. My lever takes about 3# to move, all through the range, no slip. This is the 3rd tractor I have done this to. Did you read the link I posted?

 

[1M05]

I forgot to add, take the nyloc nut off, pull the tube off, weld on washers, and lube with grease on the inside of tube and shaft upon reassembly. It should be smooth as silk to move the handle then.

I was looking at it again today. Why not just tack the tube (13) to the bracket (5) :newhere:

https://i.imgur.com/1AtuwSO.jpg

 

[wuntun]

I was looking at it again today. Why not just tack the tube (13) to the bracket (5) :newhere:

https://i.imgur.com/1AtuwSO.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/389204-perfect-hack-3ph-control-handle.html

1M05, I only referred this for the 4x00 and 4x10 models, as they do not have the piece #5, so I am not sure if it will work on your 4105 as you describe as shown in the attachment. But, if that is the point at which your tube rotates, instead of at the bellville washers, then it might work.

 

[1M05]

1M05, I only referred this for the 4x00 and 4x10 models, as they do not have the piece #5, so I am not sure if it will work on your 4105 as you describe as shown in the attachment. But, if that is the point at which your tube rotates, instead of at the bellville washers, then it might work.

In the picture you posted, weld tube (1) to bracket (2). Or is that bracket not there? In the picture it looks like it is there.

https://i.imgur.com/0nvjaPV.jpg

 

[wuntun]

I now see what your saying. Yours is a slightly different setup. On these models for one reason, I wanted it to be removable, for possible future repair/service, (a tack weld could be ground off) but part 2 has a rubber grommet that part 1 slides through that you cannot see in the pic. (hidden by washer), I believe the rubber is for vibration reduction maybe? On the other end of tube 1 there is a limiter that needs to rotate with the lever movement, so that option was out also. I should/could have made 3 small tacks on the washer shown, but I have a tendency to overkill. lol

 

[1M05]

After heavy use of the back blade moving snow, the problem returned. After the plastic grommet wears out, it doesn't matter how the adjusting nut is set because the tube rotates instead of the washer.

I removed the tube, Yes it can be removed with the bracket still attached.


You can see here where the paint is worn away from the tube turning.


Plastic grommet removed, ready to tack the tube directly to the bracket.


I ended up tacking it on the back side of the bracket for a cleaner look then sanding and painting it.


Installed.


Now all the adjustment is made with the adjusting bolt and the tube can't rotate.

 

[wuntun]

You are right 1M05, I stand corrected. They are the same, don't know how I missed it. I suppose I liked the idea of the grommet being there, not that it may or may not reduce vibration. Great upscale to the idea, the main thing is that it works!

 

[1M05]

You are right 1M05, I stand corrected. They are the same, don't know how I missed it. I suppose I liked the idea of the grommet being there, not that it may or may not reduce vibration. Great upscale to the idea, the main thing is that it works!

Thanks for the idea.

I just wanted to be sure you could still remove the whole assembly if the tube was welded to the bracket. It needs to clear the right side fender so it will slide all the way off the shaft. You have to rotate it just right so the bracket clears the fender for the last inch or so.

 

[wuntun]

wow, I never thought about the fender clearance, my fender was off when i modded mine, as i was installing the third scv lines and lever. As far as I can think, it shouldn't have to come off for a very long time as I lubed it well. Glad yours is working as should.