Oil & Fuel 4110 oil pan stripped

[UncleBuck01]

Went under the tractor with light this time to see if there was enough thread left in the hole to use an oversized plug, and yes, the old plug was catching but the plug would not tighten. Backed out the plug, looked in with the light and saw into the hole some good looking thread at the top got out the tape measure, original plug- 1/2, and depth of hole is close to 1" and threaded all the way . let the search begin - looking for a 12 x 1.25 (original guess of 1.5 thread was wrong) x 1/2" oversized plug, with or without piggyback, NO LUCK at three auto part stores, BUT, came home with a standard 12 x 1.25 x 1" inch long bolt. Back under the tractor, with a gob of grease on the bolt I gently tightened the bolt till it caught the good thread - snug to the pan and then backed it out - no thread or metal shavings on the grease, put original washer on bolt and tightened bolt to 15 ft. lbs. torque, enough torque for an aluminum pan? Yes? Completed oil change, after 2 hrs use no leaks and bolt is tight.
Since then I have found a Canadian supplier on the internet of the oversized plug with piggyback, FOR NEXT YEARS oil change, until then inspection of the pan and bolt is advisable before each use. Thanks to all for the advice


P.S. Anybody take off the front drive shaft on a 4110, was not looking forward for this task

 

[skipmarcy]

Went under the tractor with light this time to see if there was enough thread left in the hole to use an oversized plug, and yes, the old plug was catching but the plug would not tighten. Backed out the plug, looked in with the light and saw into the hole some good looking thread at the top got out the tape measure, original plug- 1/2, and depth of hole is close to 1" and threaded all the way . let the search begin - looking for a 12 x 1.25 (original guess of 1.5 thread was wrong) x 1/2" oversized plug, with or without piggyback, NO LUCK at three auto part stores, BUT, came home with a standard 12 x 1.25 x 1" inch long bolt. Back under the tractor, with a gob of grease on the bolt I gently tightened the bolt till it caught the good thread - snug to the pan and then backed it out - no thread or metal shavings on the grease, put original washer on bolt and tightened bolt to 15 ft. lbs. torque, enough torque for an aluminum pan? Yes? Completed oil change, after 2 hrs use no leaks and bolt is tight.
Since then I have found a Canadian supplier on the internet of the oversized plug with piggyback, FOR NEXT YEARS oil change, until then inspection of the pan and bolt is advisable before each use. Thanks to all for the advice


P.S. Anybody take off the front drive shaft on a 4110, was not looking forward for this task

I have, many times !! The driveshaft isn't difficult to remove. Loosen the bolt in the squeeze clamp with a 10mm wrench, tap on the metal tab hanging down on the rear half of the tube to slide the tube out of the transmission into the other half of the tube. The end that goes into the trans. has an "O" ring around it (not to hold the trans. oil in but to keep water out of the tube). Once the tube is slid in you'll see the driveshaft and coupler and the snap ring at this end. Take some snap ring pliers and move the ring back towards the front of the tractor to the smaller part of the driveshaft. The splined coupler will then slide forward also onto the driveshaft until it clears the output shaft of the trans. You then need to remove the bolt on the driveshaft tube that holds it to the front differential. This will allow the tube to slide back and reveal the same coupler/snap ring setup as at the rear. Do the same here and then the whole driveshaft and tube will drop straight down from under the tractor, hopefully not on your head. I usually move both snap rings first, leaving the couplers holding the shaft in place and then slide the couplers to let the shaft down at the same time. Same thing on reinstallation - get the couplers holding the shaft at both ends before putting the snap rings back into place - the groove on the shaft. I put a little moly spline grease on the shaft & couplers before reassembly too.

 

[UncleBuck01]

I have, many times !! The driveshaft isn't difficult to remove. Loosen the bolt in the squeeze clamp with a 10mm wrench, tap on the metal tab hanging down on the rear half of the tube to slide the tube out of the transmission into the other half of the tube. The end that goes into the trans. has an "O" ring around it (not to hold the trans. oil in but to keep water out of the tube). Once the tube is slid in you'll see the driveshaft and coupler and the snap ring at this end. Take some snap ring pliers and move the ring back towards the front of the tractor to the smaller part of the driveshaft. The splined coupler will then slide forward also onto the driveshaft until it clears the output shaft of the trans. You then need to remove the bolt on the driveshaft tube that holds it to the front differential. This will allow the tube to slide back and reveal the same coupler/snap ring setup as at the rear. Do the same here and then the whole driveshaft and tube will drop straight down from under the tractor, hopefully not on your head. I usually move both snap rings first, leaving the couplers holding the shaft in place and then slide the couplers to let the shaft down at the same time. Same thing on reinstallation - get the couplers holding the shaft at both ends before putting the snap rings back into place - the groove on the shaft. I put a little moly spline grease on the shaft & couplers before reassembly too.

Skipmarcy
I will print it and put your instructions in the 4110 manual I have, believe me your reply is better than the manual . I have one other question for you - did you find a solution to your axle problem, hope you did, thanks for the reply

 

[skipmarcy]

I'm not sure if I've solved my axle problem or not - my FWD has been out for almost 2 years now from the rearmost bearing on the internal driveshaft destroyed again and I haven't had the space in my garage to do the rear split necessary. I'm almost done with my shed, which will free my garage space up and I intend to do the repair this summer. I did this repair once already about 3 years ago and will have to scrutinize on disassembly to see if I can figure out why this is happening. I have a guess that maybe as the front axle pivot has worn-in and I've made a few small adjustments it has shortened the distance between the front differential and trans. and possibly that the front driveshaft might be too long now and could be slamming the shaft in the trans. and destroying this rear bearing. I can get the new bearing at my NAPA store for about $7 but good golly the labor & fluids involved are killer !!! If it is the front driveshaft, I can shorten it to solve this problem. As far as the front axles snapping, I hadn't broken one since I changed my rear tires to the new size but then this current problem occured and didn't get a good chance to see for sure. I have 2 spare axles on hand just in case. It's been tough getting by with just 2wd, working in reverse uphill is out of the question, can't wait to get it repaired.