42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up

   / 42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up #1  

JimS

Bronze Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2007
Messages
86
Have been getting very short life out of belts. Don't think it is the belts themselves. They seem to be going off the pulleys and getting torn up - not sure which happens first. I have replaced a few noisy bearings but don't think that is the real problem. I am hesitant to put it together to chew through another belt - the last one lasted about 5 or 10 hours. I just replaced both blade shafts and bearings and one idler bearing but as I say - I don't think that was the issue. One of the backside idlers (the one to the left) doesn't line up very well with the blade shaft pulleys. Here is a pic that I hope shows it. I can't see anything bent... I also noticed one of the blade shaft pulleys has some wobble and want to get to the bottom of that. Not sure if it is the pulley or the new shaft/nut.

There are thin brackets that seem to be for holding the belts on the reverse idlers when mounting the deck and don't seem to do anything when the belt is tight and moving. One of the tabs is broken off - the part is no longer available. Do I need to worry about it? This pulley has two tabs so I still have one. Second pick shows tab on the left and broken tab on right. Tab is no longer available but I could probably make one without too much trouble if it is really needed.

Looking for some advice on these issues...
 

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   / 42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up #2  
if you tractor is a 917.274040 dyt4000 the parts numbers for the belt guides are 141043 and 173441 and are both still available through any poulan dealer.
 
   / 42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Actually the mower is 917.273640 and the part I need is
172442. Looking for part at Poulan is a good idea but I seem to get the same thing I get when I look this part up other places - it somehow crosses to a transmission? I get this:
AMERICAN YARD PRODUCTS 183655 TRANS.SERV.21.CRT $637.58

I double and triple checked the number thinking I had read the wrong line or mixed up the digits but it looks like what the manual lists as "Guard, Tuv idler".

I did find a picture of 141043 on jackssmallengines and it looks similar. But I don't have any way to tell if it is exactly the same, for same size pulleys, etc. Guess I could try to find someone local that has it in stock but I doubt anyone stocks this...

The number crossing to a transmission is a bit strange. Other ideas?
 
   / 42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up #4  
the correct number is 173442 sub to 141043
 
   / 42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up #5  
Have been getting very short life out of belts. Don't think it is the belts themselves. They seem to be going off the pulleys and getting torn up - not sure which happens first. I have replaced a few noisy bearings but don't think that is the real problem. I am hesitant to put it together to chew through another belt - the last one lasted about 5 or 10 hours. I just replaced both blade shafts and bearings and one idler bearing but as I say - I don't think that was the issue. One of the backside idlers (the one to the left) doesn't line up very well with the blade shaft pulleys. Here is a pic that I hope shows it. I can't see anything bent... I also noticed one of the blade shaft pulleys has some wobble and want to get to the bottom of that. Not sure if it is the pulley or the new shaft/nut.

There are thin brackets that seem to be for holding the belts on the reverse idlers when mounting the deck and don't seem to do anything when the belt is tight and moving. One of the tabs is broken off - the part is no longer available. Do I need to worry about it? This pulley has two tabs so I still have one. Second pick shows tab on the left and broken tab on right. Tab is no longer available but I could probably make one without too much trouble if it is really needed.

Looking for some advice on these issues...

-------------------------------------------------------------------
The problem may not be with the pulley but the pivot point of the bracket and the deck where it mounts. You may find a shouldered bolt in that location. I have attached a pic of an old deck mounting location (rusty pic) and of an idler bracket. Both the hole in the deck and the bracket have elongated holes which allow for mis-alignment with the other pulleys within that belt system. This point seldom gets lubricated since many manufacturers deem it unnecessary. With the spring tension of the PTO this area eventually wears in this way. A good mechanic can fix it to better than new condition with a hammer, welder and a little machine work.
 

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   / 42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the correction on the part number. Looks like my manual is wrong. Wish I had known that a week ago when I ordered parts...

Any thoughts on if this being missing might cause belt damage and early belt failure? I don't think they are related but would like to hear from others. And how critical is pulley alignment and runout (wobble)?

I did just see something on belt breakin. Basically just running the belt at 1/2 throttle for short periods - say 15 seconds at a time for several times, then repeat at 3/4 throttle, then repeat at full throttle. I don't see where this could hurt so I may do it and see if it helps. Also may help to not start and stop the belt at full throttle or in heavy grass. Gotta be something wrong - just wish I could pinpoint it...

On the hole elongation I didn't see much "slop" in the pivot points. They use fairly large washers on each side so the bracket can't move much except to pivot as intended. But will take another look.
 
   / 42" dyt4000 belt keeps getting chewed up
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Perhaps the issue is the clutch (PN 160889) - the pulley has some wobble when it is disengaged - runs true when engaged. The first time the belt failed it jammed between the pulley and the rest of the clutch and sprung arms to the friction area. Very poor design IMHO with such a big gap that the belt can easily get into that area. The clutch still works... It didn't look like it could be taken apart (at least easily - riveted/staked together) to spring the fingers back and I was hoping to avoid the cost of a new clutch. May have to bite the bullet but it appears there is no way to prevent it from happening again. I guess just keep a good eye on the belts and replace at first signs of failure and reduce RPM when engaging/disengaging.

Looks like I can pick up a new Stein on ebay for about $150..
 

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