425 Battery Swap?

smartguyz · Mar 24, 2007

Hi guys,

I installed an on-board automatic battery charger for the PT425. It seems to be working fine. However, I've noticed that where the battery contacts the side of the PT, there is heavy surface corrosion. Yikes! I'm planning to take the battery out and grind the rust and corrosion off, and then paint it. It looks like I need to take the exhaust out to do so. Is this correct?

Sincerely,

Rob

KentT · Mar 24, 2007

smartguyz said:
Hi guys,

I installed an on-board automatic battery charger for the PT425. It seems to be working fine. However, I've noticed that where the battery contacts the side of the PT, there is heavy surface corrosion. Yikes! I'm planning to take the battery out and grind the rust and corrosion off, and then paint it. It looks like I need to take the exhaust out to do so. Is this correct?

Sincerely,

Rob

If you have the Kohler 25HP, yes you will need to remove the exhaust. When I replaced my battery, the only problem I had was in trying to remove the heat shield over the muffler. Those little sheet metal screws were so rusty that I was afraid I would twist them off -- even after using PB Blaster on them. I ended up removing the mounting bracket that holds that shield, in addition to the muffler. The whole thing took a half hour or so, even with that obstacle... it's not as bad as it sounds.

MossRoad · Mar 24, 2007

I have the Kohler engine and replaced my battery this winter. Just take the entire bracket for the heat shield off. It come off easy. Then there are four bolts that hold the header pipes, two on each side. As said, it took maybe a half an hour total off and on again.

ldabe · Apr 18, 2008

Went to start the PT 422 today and got a tick-tick-tick sound upon turning the ignition key.
Jumped it and it started up.
So, don't know how long the battery has been in there, here is process to remove:
1) Remove 4 nuts at muffler
2) Remove 2 nuts below muffler...bracket
3) Loosen nut on muffler bracket at bottom to move away from battery and allow battery to be pulled out
4) Loosen nut on one side of battery bracket
5) Remove nut and bolt at other end of battery bracket
6) Tilt battery to get a piece of rope underneath it to be able to pull it up and out (without rope not enough room to remove with hands)
7) & 8) Oh yeah! Remove battery cables.

What a design marvel!

Took battery to TSC and was going to buy a new one ($85 ouch). But decided to have them check the old one. Meter says to recharge and that it is rated at 430 cca.

Well it is summer so I am taking it home to put a charge on it and put it back in (fun, fun, fun) to see what happens.

If it lasts the summer, great. It is getting replaced regardless in the fall.

SpringHollow · Apr 19, 2008

Well, i guess i can justify the added cost of a PT 1850 due to ease of battery changes - two wing nuts and undo the battery cables.

Ken

smartguyz · Apr 25, 2008

I have found that lead-acid batteries like the ones used for the PT do NOT like being discharged by sitting. I have found that by keeping them 1) automatically float-charged and 2) full of distilled water at all times makes them last the longest possible. Unlike other batteries, which LIKE to be discharged completely and then recharged, lead-acid likes to be fully charged at all times. I use an on-board charger, and it works very well. That's the one I have. Has little LED for 'charging' and 'fully charged'. That's all you need!

Rob

P.S. the photo is one that is commonly available at lots of auto parts stores, frequently for about 30 bucks. I like it a lot.

smartguyz · Apr 25, 2008

Oh, since the PT425 doesn't have a 'battery tray' per-se, I used the bracket that comes with the charger and simply slid it underneath the battery. It's a tight fit, but there is enough room for the power pigtail to stick out the vent slots in the back of the PT. I just pop the pigtail inside the engine compartment when the PT is in use, and pull it out and attach an extension cord to it when it is awaiting it's next turn at bat.

Sincerely,

Rob