638
Platinum Member
Replace the spark plugs. Cold weather will cause the engine to run colder. Older plugs will have a tendency to foul quicker. If this engine is using any oil at all, it will show up on the plugs in the winter.
425 Quit in 7 Degree Weather
- Thread starter lyle425
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Treemonkey1000
Veteran Member
6 In this you greatly rejoice, though now for a little while you may have had to suffer grief in all kinds of trials. 7 These have come so that your faith-of greater worth than gold, which perishes even though refined by fire-may be proved genuine and may result in praise, glory and honor when Jesus Christ is revealed. 8 Though you have not seen him, you love him; and even though you do not see him now, you believe in him and are filled with an inexpressible and glorious joy, 9 for you are receiving the goal of your faith, the salvation of your souls.
Treemonkey1000
Veteran Member
Hmmm Lyle I am not sure where you are looking. That is out of the NIV bible. Your trials now are getting your carb thawed out. If you get that torn gasket fixed and the fumes have evaporated you might try the hair drier. See if there is a carb heating tube that is missing that flows warm air off the exhaust manifold to keep the carb from freezing. I know my truck did the same kind of thing. My chainsaws have a winter flap that pulls warm air from the crankcase to keep them from icing the carb up.
Ahh -- so that's the purpose of that funny little, hose (the diameter of a finger) curling up from the exhaust manifold and connecting to the air cleaner housing. I'll have to check on that and make sure it's properly positioned. So, I'll be off in search of my carb gasket tomorrow (while the carb gets all cozy and warm inside my house). Would you recommend gasket sealer in addition to the paper gasket?
BTW - My wife was quick to clarify that it's 1st Peter 1:6-9 , ....now if I can just get the old tractor to fire up so I can start digging out (almost 2' of snow here in Grand Rapids, MI).
Thanks for all of your help, and the help provided by everyone else who participated in this thread.
BTW - My wife was quick to clarify that it's 1st Peter 1:6-9 , ....now if I can just get the old tractor to fire up so I can start digging out (almost 2' of snow here in Grand Rapids, MI).
Thanks for all of your help, and the help provided by everyone else who participated in this thread.
goatman 1
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Two things not mentioned--there is a fuel cut off solenoid that screws into the carbon some models. If it is bad, or shorted you may not be getting fuel,or very little fuel. Also, some of the early Kawasaki engines had nylon timing gear that had a tendency to crack an shed teeth. You can hope not, and to check, remove a valve cover to check for proper cam/valve activity. My mom would have said to pray for the solution, and I see you are on the right track!
Goatman
Goatman
nspec
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Lyle,
I'm gonna suggest a different route for you. This sounds like a classic coil problem. Runs fine until hot, then dies. Next time it runs for 30min. and dies, put your hand on the coil - if it's hot to the touch, get a new one and go from there. I've had this happen to me before with a Kohler - it's 30 years old and I've never done anything with the carb. Not to say it isn't a carb problem, but it sure sounds like the coil to me.
Good Luck!
I'm gonna suggest a different route for you. This sounds like a classic coil problem. Runs fine until hot, then dies. Next time it runs for 30min. and dies, put your hand on the coil - if it's hot to the touch, get a new one and go from there. I've had this happen to me before with a Kohler - it's 30 years old and I've never done anything with the carb. Not to say it isn't a carb problem, but it sure sounds like the coil to me.
Good Luck!
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
jsborn
Gold Member
It IS 1st PETER Chapter 1 Verse 6-9
keerym
Bronze Member
How old is your 425? 425s and 445s older than about 1999 are prone to plastic timing gear failures. When they fail, the go suddenly and without warning causeing the engine to stop. You won't notice any symptoms like normal fuel or spark issues.
Before you spend any more time, I strongly suggest you take one of the valve covers off to see if the valves are moving. I suspect this is your problem, and the only way to tell is to take a cover off and look to see if the valves are moving or not.
If this is your problem, major surgury is required. If your technically savy, there are instructions on other websites of how to repair the problem. It will require a new metal timing gear from your Deere dealer. If your not mechanically inclined, you better have the dealer take over.
Before you spend any more time, I strongly suggest you take one of the valve covers off to see if the valves are moving. I suspect this is your problem, and the only way to tell is to take a cover off and look to see if the valves are moving or not.
If this is your problem, major surgury is required. If your technically savy, there are instructions on other websites of how to repair the problem. It will require a new metal timing gear from your Deere dealer. If your not mechanically inclined, you better have the dealer take over.
KennyV
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You can isolate it to fuel problem by giving it another source of fuel. Spray a lot of WD40 into the carb. A engine will start and run on WD40, and it is not as harsh or as dry as ether.
You do not state where you are located but in most areas ethanol is added to gasoline. Use that in the winter and you will raise the vapor point of your fuel and keep water from freezing in the filter or tank. KennyV.
You do not state where you are located but in most areas ethanol is added to gasoline. Use that in the winter and you will raise the vapor point of your fuel and keep water from freezing in the filter or tank. KennyV.
Thanks to all who have contributed. This is my first use of this forum and I'm really impressed with the knowledge and experience one finds here. Those of you who were thinking about that vulnerable plastic cam shaft gear in the JD 425 series got it right. There's no compression on one side of the engine and the valves aren't moving. No doubt most any of the contributors, if standing here listening to the engine crank might have said early on - "it's not a gas/carb problem, it's a combustion problem."
In any case, I, fortunately, have a friend here in the Grand Rapids, MI area who knows these tractors inside and out and will do the work for me. No surprise he left a voice message on my phone at 6:15PM last night and told me to check for compression/valve movement (I didn't get the message until this afternoon.).
Thanks again.
In any case, I, fortunately, have a friend here in the Grand Rapids, MI area who knows these tractors inside and out and will do the work for me. No surprise he left a voice message on my phone at 6:15PM last night and told me to check for compression/valve movement (I didn't get the message until this afternoon.).
Thanks again.
Gittyup
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I own one of these. I'd be surprised if it's gas related, unless you did get a bad batch of fuel. I would be suspicious of the ignition control module. Mine behaved that way when it got hot. Similar kinds of things can happen to electronics when cold. This is the black module on left side of the tractor that feeds the spark ignition coil things. Easy, 5 minute change out.
Matt_Jr
Platinum Member
Glad you got it figured out. Hopefully we'll see a post that says "It's fixed and I'm off to plow"
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