430 Loader drift

vmax12nc · May 1, 2004

I have a 4300 with a 430 loader. When I pull back slightly in an attempt to nudge the loader up, it will drift down. If I hold it there, it will drift the entire way down. When I pull the lever all of the way back, it will go up as it should. However, when I let go of the lever, the loader will drift down an inch or two. It seems to have decent lift power, etc.
Any thoughts out there as to my problem would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Jim_Fisher · May 2, 2004

vmax12nc

( When I pull back slightly in an attempt to nudge the loader up, it will drift down. If I hold it there, it will drift the entire way down. )

When that happened to my 430 loader, it was due to the o-rings inside the piston rings of the lift cylinders failing.

There may be other problems that exhibit the same symptoms. Switch the hydraulic lines (bucket lines with boom lines) in order to rule out the dual selective control valve.

It is probably only happening on one side but both cylinders should be serviced.

You could plug off the lines on the individual sides to determine which side is failing but I doubt that it would be a worthwhile endeavor. It has been my experience that mechanical devices that work in pairs should be serviced in pairs. The parts for mine cost less than $20.00 per cylinder and I spent about an hour on each side.

Let me know if you need more specific information.

Best,

Jim Fisher

flemdog · May 2, 2004

If I could ask a question about the 430 loader. I have the 4310 and 430 loader. I can't seem to get the loader in the float position. Can some one please explain the proper procedure to get the loader to float. Thanks

Jim_Fisher · May 2, 2004

flemdog,

( I can't seem to get the loader in the float position. Can some one please explain the proper procedure to get the loader to float. )

With the bucket on the ground, push forward on the selective control valve handle. It should go past the 'down' position and into float position. It should stay there until you pull the handle back to center.

Best,

Jim Fisher

flemdog · May 3, 2004

Jim: I am getting ready to pull off the mower and put on the bucket and clear some fence. I will try the float position. Usually, when I have the bucket on the ground and push control lever it raises the front off the ground. I will go and experiment and get back with you later. Thanks a lot.

GaryK · May 3, 2004

When you push the handle forward you will feel some resistance, push forward quickly and firmly and it will go into the float position.

OkieG · May 3, 2004

The parts for mine cost less than $20.00 per cylinder and I spent about an hour on each side 

Jim,
Were those Deere parts? Where do you find instructions on the rebuilding procedure?

OkieG

Jim_Fisher · May 3, 2004

OkieG,

( Were those Deere parts? )

Yes. There is a repair kit listed on the JD Parts site. I suggest that the retaining ring be replaced also.

( Where do you find instructions on the rebuilding procedure? )

I have searched high and low and have been unable to find any documented instructions. I own a set of five cd's which cover almost all of the commercial products technical manuals. There is absolutely nothing on the 430 loader.

I decided to approach this in the same manner that Charley Brown approached brain surgery - "good ol' trial and error".

The first cylinders to leak were the bucket cylinders. I switched the hydraulic lines on the selective control valve and ruled out a valve issue. I logged onto the JD Parts web site and looked up the parts. I could easily understand the o-rings, quad rings, seals, etc. from their drawing but it was hard to understand what held the end of the cylinder in the barrel.

I studied the cylinders on my tractor and noticed that there was an uneven spot under some paint. I noted that the uneven spot felt soft and dug out some putty with my pocket knife. I discovered what appeared to be a piece of heavy gauge wire with an odd bend. There was also a hole for a pin spanner in the cylinder end. I measured the end and ordered up a pin spanner from Grainger, thinking that something must be threaded. The drawing on the JD Parts site wasn't clear enough to indicate whather or not the cylinder end was threaded, but that was my first assumption.

When I attempted to disassemble the cylinder, I realized that the pin spanner would never be strong enough to turn the end. I got a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe and started to turn the cylinder end. That's when I noticed that the wire that I had discovered earlier turned with the cylinder end. I placed the tip of a screwdriver under the wire and bent the end out away from the cylinder. When I resumed turning the cylinder end the wire was pushed out through the oblong hole in the cylinder. Once the wire was out, I wa able to gently tap the cylinder end out of the cylinder and disassemble the rest of the cylinder. I found that the o-ring that acts as a tensioner for the piston ring had broken into several pieces and was allowing the oil to flow between the piston ring and the cylinder.

I cleaned everything up and put it back together, straightening and re-using the retainer. The second cylinder went quickly, since I understood exactly what had to be done to take it apart.

Shortly after, I started to get the symptoms described in the first message in this thread. At first I suspected that I had stirred up some dirt and it had lodged in the valve. A quick switch of the hydraulic lines indicated that the problem wasn't in the selective control valve. I ordered the kits (same part number as the bucket cylinders) and retainers and repaired the lift cylinders.

I'm hoping that the kits will prevent the problem in the future. It appears that the o-rings and the piston rings in the kits are made of a different material than the material used at the factory. Having to repair all cylinders after only three years of use did not make me happy. The parts didn't appear to be worn. It was more of a deterioration issue.

Hope this helps,

Jim Fisher