4310, Curtis Cab & Heater, Working Lights

[FredSG]

Hello,

I posted this problem before and am still trying to figure out what's wrong. I need some help. I need some trouble shooting ideas.

My 4310 runs just fine mechanically. I have no issues with it.

Going back a few weeks or so ago, when I was snow blowing, my Curtis Cab roof work lights stopped working, and then a short time later my rear work light, and my roof mounted beacon emergency light also stopped working. I thought it must be a fuse, but changing to a new fuse did not resolve the issue.

Now all of the wires from the above mentioned lights are connected to the Off/ON heater switch that operates my Curtis Cab Heater. Th lights and heater were installed by a John Deere technician. The heater works just fine. BUT NOW, when I toggle the roof work and rear lights, or toggle the beacon light they don't come on. I have a separate toggle switch for the roof & rear light (they come on together), and another toggle switch for the beacon light.

I replaced both toggle switches. I replaced the Curtis Heater switch. I checked and re-crimped all the wire connections. I have power coming from the fuse box to the heater switch . . . the Curtis Heater turns on and off with no issues. The wire connectors from the lights are attached to the prongs on the back of the heater switch, as they were years ago. And the lights always worked just fine when connected in this manner.

I find it hard to believe that my three work lights, and the beacon light just stopped working within just a short time of each other.

Is there a way to test the lights without removing them from the tractor?

Have I overlooked something when trouble shooting my lighting problem?

Any suggestions on what else I can do to fix my lighting problem?

Thanks,

FredSG

 

[beenthere]

Rather than start a new thread, continue with the original one.. then some of the "history" posted there will help support your quest for more info here.
Don't think there is any magic to solve it, other than get the meter out and start tracing voltages.. best of luck to you.

 

[Jimmy Joe]

Should be able to test if power is going through the light switch if there is I would be checking the ground for the lights do they have a common ground?

 

[FredSG]

Beenthere,

This post is more detailed and my first post didn't garner too many suggestions, just thought I'd try again with more info on what I've tried since.

Thanks,

FredSG

 

[FredSG]

Jimmy Joe,

The confusing part of this is the light wires are hooked together and are plugged into the back of the heater switch . . . which was set up my the JD technician long ago. That set up has worked just fine for many years until recently so not sure what's gone wrong.

FredSG

 

[beenthere]

Did you follow the voltage through that switch? And found out that the switch is working or ?? or which wires are not with voltage ?

Assume you have voltage on part of that switch... or do you not know?

For assistance to any others with ideas here, there are a couple photo's in the other thread that show the cab and the switches that need to be checked, IMO.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ork-lights-please.html?highlight=#post5311607

After determining which wires have voltage, then checking the other end at the lights would be next order. If no voltage, check for continuity of each wire.
Should have a good idea what is up at that point.

If you don't have a volt meter, then I've found a voltage probe that has a sharp point to stick into the insulation of a wire to be very handy. Just clip one wire to ground and push the probe through the insulation.. if there is voltage there, a bulb in the handle lights up.
Google this:
"Katzco Voltage Continuity & Current Tester 12v " for something similar.. about $10

 

[Jimmy Joe]

Jimmy Joe,

The confusing part of this is the light wires are hooked together and are plugged into the back of the heater switch . . . which was set up my the JD technician long ago. That set up has worked just fine for many years until recently so not sure what's gone wrong.

FredSG

You could like someone may have suggested run a jumper wire from the hot lead on the heater over to the light switch that would be a direct connection an bypass the spliced area in case there is a bad splice. Just touching a test light from hot to the frame or ground would also tell you if you have power there. Then check the wires from the switch to the light if they are intact I would suspect a bad ground.

 

[FredSG]

Thanks guys for your ideas . . . thought I'd post a copy of the installation instructions that shows the rear of the Curtis Heater Switch. The switch is getting juice from the fuse box as it turns on and off
OK. The lights 18 gauge wires are spliced and attached to the L prong on the back side of the switch.

The switch is new; the toggle switches are new.

Should all the prongs on the back of the switch be "hot"?

Thanks again,

FredSG

 

[Jimmy Joe]

This is only for the high and low to your heater fan to run the lights you need to attach a hot wire from terminal B to each of the switches for the lights.

 

[FredSG]

Jimmy Joe,

Do you make house calls???

I'll have to try what you wrote . . . just maybe that will take care of the problem. Many thanks . . . your help is very much appreciated!!

FredSG