4320 subsoiler match for I match

[bullbreaker]

I lump that comment in the "Sounds great on paper but has zero value in the real world" category.

I've used a subsoiler on quite a few different tractors and the result is always the same. When you hit an unmovable object you come to a sudden stop. Havent seen any tractor damage because of no shear pin. IMO its no different then when I catch a stump or rock with my BB...tractor comes to a stop and thats it. I've yet to see a rear blade, box blade, or any other rear implement with shear pins.

Box Blading in Reverse...well....we can have a 4 page discussion on that :laughing:




I "respect" your opinion,but me personally would rather replace a shear bolt on a subsoiler than have to repair a torn up one.Less time consuming and $.
Don't need to get into a p@##$%^ contest with anyone here,I'am just here to learn as much as I can(and help) on occasion. when I"can from facts,experiences I"ve had.
There are pro's/con's to any type of attachment.For instance you mention working with a boxblade which I agree with that part of your statement, however how about plows when they hit a rock etc.Why do they bother putting shear pins/spring backs on them?A phd is another one.
Then again a bush hog with a shear bolt is fine for some folks,and for me I made sure I run mine with a slipclutch.
I"am sure there's operators out here that have used a tractor with alot of HP/weight and not come to a "sudden stop" but have torn up their equipment(attachments/3pt. arms whatever).
Boone

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I "respect" your opinion,but me personally would rather replace a shear bolt on a subsoiler than have to repair a torn up one.Less time consuming and $.
Don't need to get into a p@##$%^ contest with anyone here,I'am just here to learn as much as I can(and help) on occasion. when I"can from facts,experiences I"ve had.

Hey, respecting each others opinion is key! No Harm No foul to me. It would actually be kinda stupid if we were all a bunch of lemmings on here and we just read threads that said "Me too" and "Yep, same here"...I dont take it as a p-p match at all....you're just voicing your opinion...hey, we all have them. I'm of the opinion that 8k+ is WAYYYYYY too much money for a Harley Rake, obviously my opinion doesnt matter too much because they still sell plenty of them :thumbsup: and rather then just sit and complain about it, I took it upon myself to build my own power rake...

We can debate the less $$ thing. Assuming your not handy with a welder and tools, the cost to replace a subsoiler is 2-1...you can buy 2 cheapie subsoilers for less money then 1 shear pin protected one.
If your like me and like building attachments, you build your own. I've got all the steel cut out and in a pile for a "Super Subsoiler" that could live long happy days behind a 75-90hp tractor...so translated to my tractor (3520), that means it will live forever....Cost of all materials? when its all done and said I'd say $75.00. So in my case, I can build 5 subsoilers for the cost of one shearpin protected one.

 

[jenkinsph]

Spudland Dave,
Have you considered building a subsoiler with a parabolic shank similar to the large V rippers? I built one of these about thirty years ago, wish I still had it. Might build another one if I get a good price on some heavy plate to cutout the shank, mine had a 3/4" or 7/8" shearbolt.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Spudland Dave,
Have you considered building a subsoiler with a parabolic shank similar to the large V rippers? I built one of these about thirty years ago, wish I still had it. Might build another one if I get a good price on some heavy plate to cutout the shank, mine had a 3/4" or 7/8" shearbolt.

I sure have! I havent yet found a piece of 1" Plate large enough to cut a parabolic shank out of and V-Rippers arent popular around here so I havent found an affordable shank "off the shelf"...So plan B is to "make" a parabolic... It's gonna be a "angled" shank, gonna try to mimic and duplicate the cuve as best I can with straight steel , I figure it will be better then a straight shank and not quite as good as a parabolic. I hate to spend big money on a ripper I use once or twice a year...

Speaking of shearbolt...Honestly thats where I'm still scratching my head...well, I havent really had time to research it, but I DONT want a shear bolt, my shank will be bolted on so I can adjust the depth, but I want to make sure they dont shear.... What did you pull yours with? Did the bolts shear? I was thinkin 3/4" bolts...

 

[jenkinsph]

Dave,
Never saw the need to make the depth adjustable, simpler to adjust the hitch height instead. The rear mounting pin was ! inch for sure and would swivel about this pin, I am not sure whether the front bolt was 3/4" or 7/8" but if I hit something like a large lightered pine stump I could shear this front bolt even at an idle. I used a Deere 4020 diesel in those days.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Dave,
Never saw the need to make the depth adjustable

Yeah, I know what you mean....I'll say that the reason why I want mine adjustable is that I have a fixed one now and I can see benefit for wanting additional depth.

Case in point...would be real handy to be able to get 14-18" deep..I have sandy soil, real easy pulling...I can pull 10" deep now without making the 3520 sweat. First "deep ripping job" I have lined up would be to pull an electric cable from the house to a small garden shed. BUT, if I make the shank that long, its a PITA because of all the ground clearance I lose. The majority of my ripping is 10" deep..just pulling roots and stumps out. My current ripper works fine for that, but even then, there has been a stump or two where I wouldnt have minded shortening the shank a little bit. If I were buying one then yeah I wouldnt pay extra for it...but when the cost difference for me is just a couple 1" bolts vs a couple welding rods, not a biggie...

Good to know the bolts...I'll go ahead with 1" bolts.

 

[jenkinsph]

Dave,
What I did when I built mine to run up to 30" depth was move the point farther to the rear on the main backbone. This accomplishes three things, reduces the loading on the top link, pulls straighter, lifts the point higher. With a ball behind it from an old crane this thing would make a tunnel for water and bulge or fracture the ground on either side outwards for two feet.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Dave,
What I did when I built mine to run up to 30" depth was move the point farther to the rear on the main backbone.

Hmm....I havent stuck any metal together yet so its not too late would you have any pics? I'm interested.

Your mole is a little bigger then what I had planned...I've got a 2" steel ball I was gonna use to pull wire or tubing.

 

[jenkinsph]

Dave,

No pics that I am aware of, built this thing about thirty years ago for use in Missippi with lots of thick clay. Pretty good load for a 4020 though, if Iwere to build another one for my small tractors today I would loose the ball or do as you plan and use something alot smaller in size. Where I live now there is way too much rock to make one useful and the ground is more porous anyway.

At any rate I would think a depth of 18" with the 2" ball would max out the 4520 I have now.