medic1050
Bronze Member
Well. After 20 years of faithful operation I had to replace the left side Rear axle seal on my 4410 HST. Figured it would be several thousand in shop labour charges for 2 $50 seals. So I'll tackle it myself.
The tech manual made it seem pretty easy.
Not my experience. Pullled the wheel off then the fender and backhoe attachment. Everything was going smooth, should get it done today. Well my last name is Murphy and it is my law... Next step Remove the roll pin from both the brake lever and the differential lever. These are 1/4" coil pins (Part 7). So grab a punch and a hammer and Wack, nothing. Wack a little harder, still nothing. Get a bigger hammer, nothing. I am working at a bit of an angle as I don't want to remove the seat assembly. So wack a few more times and...nothing.
Okay this has been in place for 20 years and has been through quite a bit. Add more PB Blaster and wait. Nothing. Okay try heat. Grab my MAP gas torch and start heating. Nope, Heat it up again and use compressed duster through the hole in the pin to freeze the pin while the rest is hot enough the paint is cooking off. Still nope.
Okay you stubborn pin. I'll show you. So I grab the air chisel and go to town. Well the pin moves a tiny amount and the brake cam shift (Part 3) snaps off at the O-ring groove. (That is a $700 part).
The differential pin was just as bad and I had to resort to drilling it out.
When I went to the right hand side as you need to drain all 26L of HyGard and so let's replace both seals to last me another 2 decades or so. Doesn't that pin pop out with the torch and duster trick.
Ah well other than about 2 weeks of down time and $900 in parts I am back up and running.
The tech manual made it seem pretty easy.
Not my experience. Pullled the wheel off then the fender and backhoe attachment. Everything was going smooth, should get it done today. Well my last name is Murphy and it is my law... Next step Remove the roll pin from both the brake lever and the differential lever. These are 1/4" coil pins (Part 7). So grab a punch and a hammer and Wack, nothing. Wack a little harder, still nothing. Get a bigger hammer, nothing. I am working at a bit of an angle as I don't want to remove the seat assembly. So wack a few more times and...nothing.
Okay this has been in place for 20 years and has been through quite a bit. Add more PB Blaster and wait. Nothing. Okay try heat. Grab my MAP gas torch and start heating. Nope, Heat it up again and use compressed duster through the hole in the pin to freeze the pin while the rest is hot enough the paint is cooking off. Still nope.
Okay you stubborn pin. I'll show you. So I grab the air chisel and go to town. Well the pin moves a tiny amount and the brake cam shift (Part 3) snaps off at the O-ring groove. (That is a $700 part).
The differential pin was just as bad and I had to resort to drilling it out.
When I went to the right hand side as you need to drain all 26L of HyGard and so let's replace both seals to last me another 2 decades or so. Doesn't that pin pop out with the torch and duster trick.
Ah well other than about 2 weeks of down time and $900 in parts I am back up and running.