4410 steering issue

[Chris61559]

I have a 2003 4410 ehydro w/900 hrs on it and it seems the steering is hard. When driving and turning the steering wheel will vary in resistance.
I have used the loader to raise the front wheels off the ground and it still is the same. When the oil is cold it really turns hard, almost two hands.
Has anyone noticed something like this?

 

[beenthere]

Highly doubt that this is "normal" so I'd be looking for what is causing the problem.
Do you have the service (tech) manual? Can get it in paper or CD.

Fill out your bio so we have a clue where you are located.
Is the tractor out in 0 deg weather?

How long has this problem been noticed?

 

[Chuck4310]

I have been having the same problem this winter for the first time with my 4310. Same symptoms as you described but it does go back to normal once warmed up good.
I believe power steering pump is separate from hydraulic pump.
Is there a separate grease fitting for the steering wheel shaft/assembly? Or a separate filter/screen in steering pump?
There is no whining noise, just hard to steer when cold.

 

[Chris61559]

Ok, a little more info.
I recently purchased this tractor and have put 10 hours on it since then. In 60 degree weather it steers hard. In one rev of the steering wheel in will go hard and then easy. In cold weather the steering is really hard and will get easier as the oil warms up. I first thought it may be a ujoint in the tilt steering but after using it in cold weather I am not so sure.

 

[beenthere]

Then if noticed at 60 deg, I'd suspect the steering valve assembly has some problems.

Here is from the tech manual on the test to find out more, and hopefully isolate the problem. Looks pretty simple and straightforward.

 

[Chuck4310]

beenthere- Thanks for attaching the procedure.
Any chance you could describe the procedure? I don't quite understand it.

 

[beenthere]

Not sure what you are not understanding.
But the first procedure is to see if the steering cylinder is leaking, which would show up by more than 5 full rotations of the steering wheel in one minute.
If it takes more than a minute to get the 5 full rotations, then follow the second procedure.

This second procedure isolates the steering cylinder from the system and just checks the steering control unit. In under a minute, if ok it should allow 5 revolutions. If it takes longer than a minute to get 5, then the SCU needs replaced.

At least that is how I read the two test procedures. Anyone else read differently?

 

[Chuck4310]

beenthere,
The part I'm having confusion over is the torque wrench on the steering wheel retaining nut.
How can you put torque on it and still turn the wheel?:confused2:

I understand a lot better if I'm shown. (simple fellow)!

Has anyone done this before?

 

[Chris61559]

beenthere,
The part I'm having confusion over is the torque wrench on the steering wheel retaining nut.
How can you put torque on it and still turn the wheel?:confused2:

I understand a lot better if I'm shown. (simple fellow)!

Has anyone done this before?

It is actually quite simple. You just have to use a torque wrench that has a dial or gauge. A click type torque wrench will not work here.
Most hydrostatic steering systems will continue to turn at a much slower rate when the wheels hit the stops.

I will try this next time I get the 4410 up to temp, thanks

 

[beenthere]

And I don't read it as even involving a torque wrench. Just apply constant pressure when turning the wheel for the count down. But the wrench with gauge should work too.

 

[Chuck4310]

Well I took the tractor out today and warmed it up. I turned the wheel all the way to the right to stop. Applying constant pressure, I turned the wheel to the left- 3 1/2 turns to stop. I then turned the wheel to the right- 4 turns to stop. I tried this several times and it always resulted the same.
The wheels turned freely with no difficulty unlike recent previous times when it was much colder out.
I also noticed that the wheel would continue to turn slowly after reaching the stop as Chris pointed out.
Why the different # of turns each way?
I tried it with the front wheels on the icy driveway and with the front end off the ground, same result.
Any thoughts?

 

[beenthere]

My thought is it is working ok.
Not having a mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the front wheels, there will be differences in hyd. pressure and resistance. This likely will result in the differences in # of turns.
Now, have to wonder where the apparent moisture is that is freezing up and causing you a problem in colder temps.

 

[Chuck4310]

Thanks for the reply, I agree.

Never had any leaks of fluids and I check them regularly so don't know where moisture in the system could come from.

I'm just gonna keep on runnin it! Been a good machine.:thumbsup:

 

[jd110]

Chuck, I think you misunderstood the test somewhat. The instructions want you to turn the wheel to full right and then keep constant pressure on the steering wheel for 1 full minute. If the wheel turns more than 5 revolutions after the wheels stop moving, there is too much internal leakage in the steering valve or the cylinder. The reason you see more turns for the left lock is that the cylinder is extending when steering to the left and retracting when steering to the right. Less oil is needed to fill the cylinder when it retracts since the cylinder rod is taking up some of the space in the cylinder.

 

[Chuck4310]

Thanks jd110! Now it's making sense to me. I did notice that once the wheels hit the stop, the steering wheel continued to turn VERY SLOWLY.
Although I didn't time it, it was nowhere near at the rate of 5 turns in one minute.
Thanks for clearing that up for me.