4530 has electrical working, but no turn over, no start

farmboyhull · Jan 3, 2014

Good morning gents, hope snow removal in the NE is working for everyone!

I've got a 4530 that's been working fine, recently. I had some rough starts a few weeks ago, so I've been plugging it in overnight for the last few starts. I can't tell you if this issue started at exactly the same time that I've been plugging in, but it's been close.

THe last few starts gave me a click when I turned the key to start (after glowing). One click. When I turned the key back, and then tried again it would turn over and run fine. Exhaust looked a little blue, but I'm not sure if it was any different than every other cold start. Plus, I added some anti-gel stuff recently.

This morning, I got no clicks and no starts. Glowed fine (a quicker glow than normal because it was plugged in), lights came on, etc. But when the key turns, nothing happens.

SOme extra info - I disconnected a couple things summer of 2012 and it's been running like that since then. Both were alarm things, as I recall. One piece is straight up disconnected (when I reconnected it this morning, I could hear a steady click under the dash, almost like the the clicking of a turn signal), and the other I had to patch. I had a piece of wire connecting each outside socket to each other. It's one of those 4 way blade type receivers - the black piece that used to connect got fried, so instead of getting anew one I just put the wire in - it's been great for a year and a half. It's right near my feet, and I have to be careful of it, and I figured I might have jostled it with the snow and all, but externally it looks fine and moving the wire around didn't do diddly.

When it didn't start this morning it was as if the shifter wasn't in neutral, the pto was on, or that wire was disengaged. It had that "I'm not starting because you broke something" kind of finality.

So. Any places to start? I probably won't be able (willing really. I'm at the point in my life where I'd rather pay someone to fix it) to do any fuel work, and my electrical skills are miserable. I do have some sort of helpful electrical tester somewhere, which could probably help. I'm just hoping someone will have the simple fix. But, isn't that what we always hope?

To top it off, both side panels and the hood are refusing to open, but I'll get in there if need be.

Calgon. Seriously.

Thanks.

farmboyhull · Jan 3, 2014

An update-

I posted this on another thread as well, and it was suggested that a cell might be out in the battery, and that safety switches are probably the problem.

I tried jumping it, but that didn't make a difference.

It seems like there aren't many safety switches. I have two disconnected already. One is just disconnected (this is connected to the left arm of the pto. I think I disconnected it because it was beeping all the time.) and the other is disconnected form the safety switch, but I had to stick a wire in the female end so that it would allow the tractor to start. This is connected to the right arm of the pto.

Tracing the wires a bit, starting at the left rear of the tractor, I've got the reverse light that comes down to the left side of the seat. T'ed into that is that disconnected switch from the right arm of the pto. That electric line continues on to up near my left foot. t'ed into that is that safety switch from the left arm of the pto. That line continues on up into the dash.

I'm not so hot with electricity. But, if power can go to that reverse light, I kinda figured that meant both those safety switches were working. I just realized I could remove the wire and see if the reverse light would still work.

Anyone know of more safety switches? Or a way to supply power directly to the starter?

Thanks.

Cecil Stults · Jan 3, 2014

turn on the headlights. hit the glow plugs how dim do the lights go.
should dim some but not down to nothing. If so bad battery or connection.
Do the same with the starter. if lights dim a lot then bad battery. Feel the battery terminals after doing these tests. If hot or warm then they are not making good connection. Clean the terminals.

sounds like it could be the starter solenoid or power not getting to it.
find the starter and chase the big heavy cable back to the starter solenoid.
This is a big electric operated switch. it makes clicking noises when the contacts get pulled together from you giving it 12V of juice from the ign. switch.
If no clicking noise give it a whack or two with a screwdriver handle. sometimes that jars it into working.

There should be a small wire going to it that supplies 12v from the ign switch. Check this wire with a meter or a light
bulb. When you turn the key to start it should show 12v or light the light. If not - possible ignition switch prob.
You can jump 12.v from the battery to this terminal real quick and see if solenoid does click and starter starts in.

Be very careful. make sure tractor is in neutral. will be sparks. make sure no flamables around the area.
Can possible scare the pee out of you. Just a quick touch.
If starter does move then you have an ignition switch problem or possible a safety switch keeping the ignition switch wire "open" or disconnected.

If you DO have 12v to this point then it could be the solenoid itself. You can jump the two big battery terminal
wires with a screw driver or a pair of pliars. Be double careful. Will have bigger spark and tool in you hand could heat up quickly. If the starter turns from this test then you need a new solenoid.

I am telling you to do dangerous "dumb farmer" tests. DON't do these in a hay barn full of hay. make sure you can get away from the tractor quickly. Preferrable the tractor outside away from other things.

In fact don't do them at all. go pay big bucks for someone else to do it..... BAH -hahahahaha

farmboyhull · Jan 3, 2014

Awesome! I'm going to try this out tomorrow. It's too cold out there...

Here's what I just tried.

The lights didn't dim when I tried the starter.

There were two posts on the starter (at least, I think it was the starter!!)- a smaller one with a black rubber boot and a bigger one with a red, hard plastic boot. When I ran a wire from the positive terminal to the larger starter terminal, I got nothing. When I connected a wire between both starter terminals, I got nothing.

I did connect the larger starter terminal to the tractor frame (by accident) and both ends got hot, fast.

I'm going to try again tomorrow, because I think my wire (smallish jumper cables) connections are fried.

More ideas?

Thanks very much, fellas. I do hate this in many ways.
David

George2615 · Jan 3, 2014

Based on your first post where it clicked turning the key to start could be caused by many things such as:
1) Bad ground cable or connection
2) Bad positive cable or connection
3) Starter solenoid or wiring connection
4) Starter motor brushes getting stuck
5) Ignition (key switch) going bad internally.
6) Corrosion in a jumper wire contact or any connection
All these could lead to a no start / crank condition
Since it clicked once and by turning the key off then back on and it cranked over and started I would suspect the ignition switch internal contacts are starting to wear out or the starter or solenoid.

Per your last post (#4) the large wire on the starter should come from the positive side of the battery. The smaller wire would be fed from the ignition switch applying battery voltage when turning the key. Usually jumping the large and small wire with a screwdriver will cause the starter to crank the motor over.

LAWALLSTRACTOR · Jan 3, 2014

As Cecil mentioned jumping the solonoid will narrow down the problem possibilities. If it turns over when jumping the solonoid, your problem is probably in the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, or the PTO safety switch.Try wiggling the range shifter back and forth a little while holding the key in the start position. If the tractor doesn't turn over when you jump the solonoid, the problem is a battery connection problem, or a bad solonoid. Double check and clean the battery ground connection to the battery and frame. Let us know if any of this helps and good luck with it.

flusher · Jan 3, 2014

The ignition switch on my 5525 got some contamination inside the key slot. The key would not fit all the way in. The panel lights come on, but nothing from the starter. Sprayed some WD40 in the slot and worked the key around until it fit properly. Bingo, got it started.

Good luck

farmboyhull · Jan 5, 2014

Good Afternoon!

Well, I fiddled a bunch this morning. What a beautiful day! Much better than that cold the last few days. I fiddled, and fiddled some more, and finally called it quits. As I was putting some of the pieces back on before closing the hood, I saw the fusebox. Seriously, I hadn't thought about the fuse. You can probably guess where this is going...

Swapped in a new one, and it started right up. Jeez.

Thanks for the help.

David