4630 wont start with key

jlmjlm · Feb 19, 2015

only have 3 volts going to relay when key is turned to start. i have the safty swith crossed out. have tried 2 different ignition switches. could it b a wire not hooked up?

TractorTech · Feb 20, 2015

Sounds like a fusible link burned out. The links are the 12 ga. (approximate) wires coming off of the + post of the starter, where the + cable attaches. You can temporarily run a jumper to the switch from the + to the switch to test. Napa, auto parts, etc. have fusible wire in bulk to splice in place.

mddorange · Feb 20, 2015

:welcome:
To the site jlm from Alabama.

jlmjlm · Feb 22, 2015

i have two 12 v batteries, dont think its the cable connections. i can run a hotwire from the starter to the post on the relay that goes to the switch and it will crank up when u touch the post. testmeter shows 3 volts with key in start position also when its running the gauges arent working, could it b a wire not hooked up somewhere. thanks for the reply. trying to fix it myself the jd place is to expensive they charged me 7000 dollars to put a clutch in this tractor and 50 hrs later the flywheel bolts (just happened to back out and sheer) , another 4500 dollars.

jlmjlm · Feb 22, 2015

thanks for the reply. read my reply to tx jim and c if it still could b that fusible link,

jlmjlm · Feb 22, 2015

thanks for reply, read my reply to txjim and c if it still sounds like a fusible link. thanks again

TractorTech · Feb 23, 2015

jlmjlm said:
thanks for reply, read my reply to txjim and c if it still sounds like a fusible link. thanks again

Yes, very possible a fusible link causing the problem. What you described in your procedure bypassed the link and still would lead me to investigate it.

Also, I would go challenge the Deere dealer to eat the flywheel bolts shearing as a shop warranty or, in other words, they forgot to tighten them. Did they give you the old bolts as is required?
The bolts Ford used are overkill and more than enough to take the torque on a 4630. Don't ever remember ANY Ford tractors of the series (1965-2000) using that engine ever shearing bolts. Since they were the last ones in there, it is very suspicious.
Also, at $100/hr., it took them 40 hours to do that repair. Pretty slow shop. That Ford is not much different from the equivalent sized Deere tractors in labor to do that repair, so an excuse of "we've never worked on that model before" wouldn't hold much water.

Tx Jim · Feb 23, 2015

Ditto what TractorTech stated about flywheel bolts. If dealer didn't want to correct flywheel bolts problem for FREE then my attorney would be having a discussion with the dealer management. Being a former JD dealer service manager I'll bet dealer has insurance to cover technician mistakes. I also agree $4500 to replace flywheel bolts sounds atrocious.

I can't remember or find in parts catalog a factory installed fusible link.

Did you check for a ""good ground"" on starter relay on firewall above starter????????????? Depending on tractor serial relay should resemble one of the photos.

Another place to check for corroded/loose connections is the wiring bulkhead on RH firewall as they have a history of getting corroded over time.

TractorTech · Feb 23, 2015

Tx Jim said:
Ditto what TractorTech stated about flywheel bolts. If dealer didn't want to correct flywheel bolts problem for FREE then my attorney would be having a discussion with the dealer management. Being a former JD dealer service manager I'll bet dealer has insurance to cover technician mistakes. I also agree $4500 to replace flywheel bolts sounds atrocious.

I can't remember or find in parts catalog a factory installed fusible link.

Did you check for a ""good ground"" on starter relay on firewall above starter????????????? Depending on tractor serial relay should resemble one of the photos.

Another place to check for corroded/loose connections is the wiring bulkhead on RH firewall as they have a history of getting corroded over time.

Tx Jim, they don't show the fusible links in the parts book anymore, but can be spliced into the harness in place of the old. The last model that actually shows in the online parts book is the 4600, but then substitutes from the fusible link replacement anyway.

Tx Jim · Feb 23, 2015

TractorTech
Sorry but JD 4630 is a 150 pto HP rowcrop tractor built from '73-'77 while a 4600(Yanmar) is a 36 pto HP CUT built from '98-'01 which are not even close relatives except for the green & yellow paint with JD logo. As I previously stated I'm fairly confident a JD 4630 doesn't have a fusible link but utilizes circuit breakers for electrical protection.

TractorTech · Feb 23, 2015

Tx Jim said:
TractorTech
Sorry but JD 4630 is a 150 pto HP rowcrop tractor built from '73-'77 while a 4600(Yanmar) is a 36 pto HP CUT built from '98-'01 which are not even close relatives except for the green & yellow paint with JD logo. As I previously stated I'm fairly confident a JD 4630 doesn't have a fusible link but utilizes circuit breakers for electrical protection.

My assumption was for Ford 4630, but with 2 batteries, it would be a John Deere, indeed. I am aware of the differences in the John Deere models, but was talking Ford. My apologies Tx Jim.
This is the hazard of the parts and repairs section, as it should have been under the John Deere header.

jlmjlm · Feb 23, 2015

didnt get to work on it today to much freezzing rain, by running a wire from battery to the #3 post in your relay diagram cranks it the second u touch it. would that not show that the wires going from relay to starter are good and maybe the problem is from #3 post back to switch. dont the switch send voltage to that post to open the relay? the switch sends no voltage to that post. thanks

jlmjlm · Feb 24, 2015

my falt. i didnt know ford made a 4630 next time ill b more specific. this tractor does have circuit breakers. by the way they did put a new flywheel in it. it loooked perfect to me, they claimed it had the wrong flywheel .been running it for 20 yrs with no problem untill they went into it. they charge by thier little book not how long it actually took. definitely a rip off. thanks .

ETpilot · Feb 24, 2015

jlmjlm said:
didnt get to work on it today to much freezzing rain, by running a wire from battery to the #3 post in your relay diagram cranks it the second u touch it. would that not show that the wires going from relay to starter are good and maybe the problem is from #3 post back to switch. dont the switch send voltage to that post to open the relay? the switch sends no voltage to that post. thanks

Welcome to TBN. First I do not know anything about JD equipment. I do know a little bit about electricity. Maybe enough to get into trouble. The starting relay is generally a 4 pole relay. Two terminals are the trigger terminals. One goes to the key switch the other to ground. The other two terminals are the power terminals one to battery the other to the starter.

When you turn the key, power goes to terminal3, maybe by what u posted, thru the coil to ground. This activates the relay and connects the battery to the starter via the power terminals. Starter then engages until u release the key.

If your key is connected to terminal 3 n you are only getting 3 volts, that is not enough. You should be reading battery voltage, fully charged 12.3-12.6 volts. Check your battery voltage. Whatever reading you get, you should see at the relay, maybe .50 volts less.

Since you say you jump from battery to terminal 3 and starter engages, the problem is key switch wiring. You've changed the key switch so switch is not the problem. You are losing voltage somewhere in the starting circuit wiring.

Anyway, hope this helps. Someone with JD knowledge can correct me if I am wrong.

jlmjlm · Feb 25, 2015

you are exactly right as to how the system is set up and operates .there is a wire that goes from the relay to the bank of circuit breakers. got to figure out which wire feeds the switch and why the guages arent working. going to ck the neutral safety switch one more time and b sure that it has continuity. i crossed it out but didnt ck voltage. gonna work on it tomorrow if its not snowing, forcast tomorrow is 3 to 6 in. thanks everyone for the help. let u know how it comes out

ETpilot · Feb 25, 2015

Not sure how your neutral switch is wired. I think that if you are getting voltage to the switch n relay the neutral switch is good. Put a volt meter on the relay, then start pulling the fuse or circuit breakers one at a time. Turn your key n check for voltage. When you get no voltage that is the one. Now u can check wiring. I work alone n made a horn voltage checker. I just listen for sound as I check things. Working on my airplane landing gear I set up the horn in the wiring behind the cabin area while checking switches n wiring in the nose gear area. Found the problem but could not have done it alone without the horn. It is a continuity/ voltage tester. Good tool to have for electrical work. Good luck with your repair.

Tx Jim · Feb 25, 2015

TractorTech said:
My assumption was for Ford 4630, but with 2 batteries, it would be a John Deere, indeed. I am aware of the differences in the John Deere models, but was talking Ford. My apologies Tx Jim.
This is the hazard of the parts and repairs section, as it should have been under the John Deere header.

No apologies required. I read jlmjlm's profile which stated he owned JD tractors.

Tx Jim · Feb 25, 2015

ETpilot said:
Welcome to TBN. First I do not know anything about JD equipment. I do know a little bit about electricity. Maybe enough to get into trouble. The starting relay is generally a 4 pole relay. Two terminals are the trigger terminals. One goes to the key switch the other to ground. The other two terminals are the power terminals one to battery the other to the starter.

On some JD starter relays the relay body is the ground connection not the 4th terminal.

ETpilot · Feb 25, 2015

Tx Jim said:
On some JD starter relays the relay body is the ground connection not the 4th terminal.

You are quite right. Some relays ground by installation. The one pictured in this thread appears to be a 4 pole so that is what I described. Some automotive relays are 5 pole. An action can take place with relay not activated n with the relay activated. Looking at relay circuits is interesting in how they are used.