4720 vs 5075E

9973720wb19 · Jan 27, 2014

Hey -
I'm thinking about going from my 4720 cab (260 hrs on it) to a 5075e cab BUT the 4720 is all set up with attachments and lots of options (mid-pto, horn, air seat, cruse, self-leveling fel, 3rd hydro, chains, etc) and I really like the EHydro. the 5075e is attractive because it's more stable and larger front tires...just beefier. im not a farmer - I have a 40 acre homestead - some loader work, snow removal, brush moving, stuff - I mow with a JD 1600 WAM, but use the 4720 brush and grooming mower on rough areas.

Will I like the larger tractor that much to switch? will I like the more complicated transmission? the 4720 is just soooo easy! :confused3:

MtnViewRanch · Jan 27, 2014

9973720wb19 said:
Hey -
I'm thinking about going from my 4720 cab (260 hrs on it) to a 5075e cab BUT the 4720 is all set up with attachments and lots of options (mid-pto, horn, air seat, cruse, self-leveling fel, 3rd hydro, chains, etc) and I really like the EHydro. the 5075e is attractive because it's more stable and larger front tires...just beefier. im not a farmer - I have a 40 acre homestead - some loader work, snow removal, brush moving, stuff - I mow with a JD 1600 WAM, but use the 4720 brush and grooming mower on rough areas.

Will I like the larger tractor that much to switch? will I like the more complicated transmission? the 4720 is just soooo easy! :confused3:

Sounds like you need to load your tires. That will give you your stability. Get some wider front tires and it sounds like you would then be all set up. Lot's of other things to consider when going to a larger tractor. Existing implements may not be big enough to hold up to the larger machine, then you might need to start over with implements. That's not to say that you can't use your existing implements, just a good chance that something gets caught and you aren't paying attention at that exact moment and in a second you have a pile of scrap metal.

All things to consider.

wmonroe · Jan 27, 2014

If it were me for your situation I would stay with what you have. Are your rear tires set to the widest position? Are they loaded? You could always add rear spacers to gain more stability.

9973720wb19 · Jan 28, 2014

All good points. I guess I could add the spacers - been resisting loading the tires - seems that can cause damage and too messy. the more I think about it, the better fit the 4720 is for me over the 5 series. I do a lot of back-up and forward mowing around ditches and the Hydro trans is so quick with forward the reverse especially if you're looking behind you while mowing - I don't need to turn my head to move forward...just move the foot to the other peddle. I will look into getting spacers set to the widest position...I think ill call my dealer this morning.

adirondackmtnman · Jan 28, 2014

9973720wb19 said:
All good points. I guess I could add the spacers - been resisting loading the tires - seems that can cause damage and too messy.

If you get rimguard instead of calcium chloride, you eliminate the rim-rot, call around to the dealers in your area, you can either bring your tire/rim assemblies to them, or pay more and they'll come out to you and fill them right on the tractor. Not messy at all, unless you get a leak. You'll have a whole new tractor with loaded tires.

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet

TripleR · Jan 28, 2014

We own an L5740HSTC and an M8540HDC which are close to the JD models mentioned. Due to multiple properties and acreage, type of terrain, we have to have to have both. I like and operate both, based on your description I think you are going to be happier keeping your 4720.

I just put an air ride seat in my 5740, have filled tires and will be adding some wheel weights to compensate for some brush guards. Adding spacers to your tractor sounds like a good idea to increase stability.

Red Horse · Jan 28, 2014

adirondackmtnman said:
If you get rimguard instead of calcium chloride, you eliminate the rim-rot, call around to the dealers in your area, you can either bring your tire/rim assemblies to them, or pay more and they'll come out to you and fill them right on the tractor. Not messy at all, unless you get a leak. You'll have a whole new tractor with loaded tires.

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet

FOR WHAT ITS WORTH, Calcium is a problem when the rims are underfilled. Key to long rim life is the wheel always wants to be submerged-"always wet". Got this bit of info a long time ago from a long time commercial tire dealer.

adirondackmtnman · Jan 28, 2014

Red Horse said:
FOR WHAT ITS WORTH, Calcium is a problem when the rims are underfilled. Key to long rim life is the wheel always wants to be submerged-"always wet". Got this bit of info a long time ago from a long time commercial tire dealer.

True enough. They'll usually start rusting around the valve stem hole in my experience however, and begin seeping fluid. Non-corrosive options, IMHO, besides the added cost, are a better choice.

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet

MtnViewRanch · Jan 28, 2014

When your tires are filled, it's like having a different machine. Your stability goes waaaaaay up as well as the capabilities of the machine. Adding wheel spacers will help and probably should do it, but they will not help to the extent that filling the tires will have.

Just an additional :2cents: worth.