Tiller 48 Inch Tiller?

   / 48 Inch Tiller? #1  

Jackrabbit_Slim

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2004
Messages
111
Location
B.C. Canada
Tractor
B2710
I'm looking at a 48 inch tiller with offset to run on a Kubota B2710 (20 PTO hp). My rear tires are set to about 54 inches and while I'd really like to be able to cover myself in one pass, I'm a little confused by all the different PTO hp requirements different manufacturers list for their tillers. Would appreciate any input.

Thanks,

Slim
 
   / 48 Inch Tiller? #2  
Slim, I've mentioned lots of times before that I had a 40" tiller for my B7100 and it was just right. When I got the B2710, I would have liked to have a 60" tiller, but just couldn't bring myself to spend the money, since I could use that 40" tiller off set to cover my tracks on one side. Actually, since they throw a little dirt out beyond the ends of the tines, that 48" tiller might pretty well cover your tracks, but my personal preference would sure be a 54 to 60" one.
 
   / 48 Inch Tiller? #3  
I'm using a 52" Woods tiller on my CK20HST (15.5 PTO HP) and it does a great job, and the tractor handles it well. You could easily use one of these, and I think even at 52", the throw of soil would cover your tracks. This is the GTC52 model, and can be offset as well.
John
 
   / 48 Inch Tiller? #4  
<font color="red"> I'm a little confused by all the different PTO hp requirements different manufacturers list for their tillers. </font>

Slim, listen to the manufacturers recommendations, they are there for a reason. For example, Brand X may say they need 20pto hp to operate their tiller, but Brand Y needs 23pto hp to operate that brand . . . why? Well you need to look at the design.

-- For example a reverse spinning tiller requires more horsepower than a forward spinning tiller.
-- Gear drive is supposed to require less hp than chain drive.
-- The shape and number of the spades or tines will also make a difference. If the tines are simple bent tines, then they require less hp than spades.
-- The number of tines/spades will also make a difference.
-- And then don't forget about soil conditions, that can make a difference too.

I have clay on my property, but there are 2 different clays, on my upper ridgeline the clay is manilla colored with no real organic content, I turn a 50" tiller (LandPride RTA1550) with no problem at full depth on the first pass with a tractor that has 19pto hp. But when I go down into the valley area (60' elevation change) the clay is black and sticky and clumps even when it has not rained because it holds so much moisture. When it is dry as a bone, I can bury the tiller down there and churn it without out any problems, but if it is just a bit moist, the tiller will slow down and even at full throttle the machine won't quite hold 540 pto speed. My brother lives much closer to Lake Michigan, his soil is very sandy, running the tiller to build his yard was so easy it was like the tiller had no load at all! My friend lives 40 miles west of Chicago in a new suburb and his soil for his yard came in on by the truckload and was nice black topsoil, again, absolutely easy to churn it up and mix it with the hardpack that was under the new soil.

So consider the manufacturer's recommendation and consider your soil conditions.
 
   / 48 Inch Tiller? #5  
I use a 56 inch on my 755 John Deere 20 horse power (15 pto) and I get along just fine. I like it because it takes out my wheel tracks. I don't set it in the deepest setting but when I make a second pass I am tilling around 6 to 7 inches deep. I think the biggest thing with a tiller is not to get in a big hurry with it. The tiller will do a better job and it won't work the tractor hard.
 
 

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