4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th SCV on a JD 5065E

[Jim Timber]

Three years ago, I installed an extra 2-spool valve on my rear fender for running my 3pt stump grinder. It was super intuitive to manipulate the cutter head with the twin levers and being hasty I never plumbed it into the tractor so I was running it off the rear (3rd) SCV which required my holding the lever to provide power to the valve. It worked well enough, but then I had to unhook my hydraulic top link to use the stump grinder and then lost some of my adjustability for larger stumps when doing that. The next year, I made a hydraulic tilt link and then I had a choice of either having TnT, or having my grinder connected. Couldn't use my TnT to help connect implements from the rear because then I'd screw up the 3pt hitch function if I bungee'd the SCV. I kept saying I was going to fix it one of these days and never got around to it because of the hassle/expense of renting a trailer. Well, that changed this Spring when I finally bought a trailer. The tractor came home and I got started!

Rather than using a diverter and the single spool valve I'd bought years back, I got a 2-spool with float detent for my TnT so I have float on my top link should the desire arise.



I also used QD connections so I can remove the hydraulic top link if I want to as well (I haven't put it in since finishing the plumbing).

Since I had PB circuits between two valve bodies at the aft of the machine anyway - I put a QD connection between them and now have Power Beyond for electro/hydraulic/remote operation of my skidding winch. Which cost me all of $20 for the pair of connectors.

Also, needing to gang two valve body's tank drain ports and connect them with the tractor sump, I used that junction to add another T port to the aft of the machine for future use with the skidding winch, hydraulic motors, or what have you.



I still need to build my proper right-angle brackets for the stump grinder's valve body QD's, but the valves are all plumbed in and everything works. Force of habit bit me in the bum as soon as I started the tractor today: I've become so used to using my stump grinder valves for TnT that I instinctively reached for the lower valve's controls and proceeded to dump hydraulic fluid on the driveway when I meant to level out the tiller (which served quite nicely as a seating bench for the whole procedure). Since that's really the only mishap of the entire up-fit, I'm pretty pleased. :thumbsup:


To anyone wondering "Why not just add the 4th SCV from the factory?": That's got a couple answers. First, I'm not left handed. The fender mounted valve actually places the controls in a very comfortable position for my right hand while I'm turned 90 degrees in the seat running the grinder. Second, it's $1300 for the second rear SCV kit from the factory. I have 2 diverters (power SSQA control, and 3rd function on my loader), and 2 extra 2-spool valves with all the plumbing/fittings between the whole works for less than one additional factory rear SCV. Another reason to go with fender mounted valves in my case is that the tractor itself is big enough that I can't reach in and operate the factory rear SCV controls and still see the 3pt hitch without being on the tractor. Now I can stand on the ground and fine-tune my tilt link to line up with unevenly situated implements.

 

[LouNY]

nice job, looks good and functional

 

[CobyRupert]

Nice job. Followed most of your descriptions, but got my head spinning.
Was the 3rd rear SCV "factory"? A spool valve added onto the others?
I thought you couldn't add a 3rd spool valve because with the extra space the valve would take up, there's not enough room between the spool valve's end cap (w/ power beyond ports) and the roll guard post to connect the power beyond fittings?

 

[Jim Timber]

The 3rd SCV is the factory single rear spool valve. A 4th factory would've cost over a grand, and a 5th wouldn't be possible due to insufficient space.

1st and 2nd are the loader control valves for boom and curl. 4th and 5th are my TnT and 6th and 7th are for the stump grinder. The numbers represent where the valves are in the flow from the pump downstream.


Did some thinking about how I wanted to make the QC 90 brackets for the stump grinder's work ports and placed the order for the parts last night. Should be here by early next week.

 

[Jim Timber]

My neck's been giving me fits the past few days, but I got some work in on the QD's making nipples for the ORB female-to-male conversion.



Next up is the manifold blocks and the banjo bolts.

 

[Jim Timber]

More progress:



Did some fine tuning from here, but this shows the gist of it.

Cleaned up the manifold blocks, and they're getting painted now.



Just need to bore the all-thread and drill the cross holes, then turn the o-ring lands, and it'll be time to strip down the valve block and paint it before final assembly.

 

[LouNY]

Beautiful workmanship, looking good. That will be a nice functioning system.

 

[Jim Timber]

Thanks, Lou.

 

[Jim Timber]

Finally got these done and installed tonight.

Used a ton of pipe dope because I don't trust the o-rings pressure angles on my banjo bolts since I had no way to install backing washers with how I made them. If they end up leaking (stump grinder is a very low pressure application), I'll change the stand-offs to male/female ORB extensions and shorten the banjo's accordingly, but I doubt it'll be a problem.

 

[3Ts]

It looks to me like you have 2 hoses to those valves which would be the supply and return. No case drain. Am I correct? And that each one is a power beyond port. Is there any reason you chose to have 2 separate sets of valves instead of putting them all in one bank?