Chains 4WD and chains

   / 4WD and chains #11  
I bought chains for my 7800 this year and they made a huge difference on my snowy, steep, hardpack drive. Also bought them for the front, but couldn't get them to stay on and the clearance to the ball joints was minimal, so, rather than screw around with them in the middle of winter, I just left them off. Would have been nice to have them on occasion when plowing, as the front tires tend to slide, when the bucket fills up. But, overall the tractor handled fine without them.

My recommendation is to start with a rear set first, and see how it goes. If the result isn't satisfactory, then consider the front chains.
 
   / 4WD and chains
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for all the replies, guys. Sorry about not mentioning the tires are R4's, I thought it was in my profile, but I see it isn't. I'll have to get that updated.
The drive is flat, but when the snow builds up on the blade or FEL, I want to get a little futher without slipping, not to mention the ice a lot of us experienced this past winter. It did a great job, I just want to make things a little easier and I figured less slipping would be better. I did get it stuck once too (not quite like that attachment!) by pushing the snow a little too far into the yard to make room for more. A little more bite and I might not have had to clean off the Durango.

The mud isn't really mud until you sink into it. It's an old cow pasture that I could hardly drive through last year it was so wet. A lot of standing water. After reading some of your experiences I think the chains might have made me feel more secure. It felt like I floated my way through it and I could hardly steer. I left some 6-8" ruts and a little more bite might have worked better here, too as long as I kept an easy throttle.

Thanks again. I think I'll go for a set all around to help with the steering.

Fred
 
   / 4WD and chains #13  
My experience is with ag tires. Chains will only make a bigger mess in mud, don't waste your time. With industrial tread, perhaps they help, but if they are making a difference, you probably shouldn't be there to begin with. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif If you have turfs, you are trying to float over the top; chains will dig in & sink you, and then you are stuck because you don't have enough grip to push the mud aside & work your way down to solid ground.

For snow & ice, it is most common to see them on the rear wheels, but if you have problems steering putting them on front might be better. I would consult with a dealer before putting them on all 4, as that could overstress the powertrain. Some brands frown on this. A different solution to 4 chains is to properly weight the axle that has chains on it. Getting traction in snow & ice is about getting weight on small points of friction, not adding more & more points. I think manufaturers would prefer you moving in that direction.


Ag tires are designed the way they are because you can't get traction on soft mud. The bars move the soft muck out to the side, as your wheels hunt down deeper for solid dirt - often the sub-soil layer. If the ground is unsolid muck real deep, you will dig down until the frame is sitting in the mud. (Get out of a combine like that & scratch your head wondering what to do.... Been there, done that.) You will notice an ag tire in mud barely moves in reverse, because the lugs pull the soft mud up underneith. Zero traction.

Industrial tires are a compromise of toughness & low profile lugs. If you have these tires, you've stated you do not want to operate in deep mud. You made that choice. Chains might help wipe mud away from the tire, but they are not really adding traction. The chains are more of a bandaid than a solution to mud.

If you have turf tires, you went for floatation. The only way to get over mud with these is to add more rubber surface area - wider tires, or duals. Chains will probably sink you faster in mud than without. You have a floating tire, not a gripping tire. once you cut a rut, you are in trouble. You need to float over the top.

Each tire type serves a purpose, and if you really want to operate in mud frequently, the best bet is to get the right tire. I would not rely upon chains to help me in mud. They do not supply the tread pattern you need to help operate in mud.

Now on ice & snow, you need the hard point penetration to catch on the slippery surface, and chains will help a _lot_ on turfs & industrial tires, and the propper chains that stay on top of the bar lugs will help a lot on ag tires.

It's the best tool for the job thing - using chains in mud means something was wrong from the start. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Look at what you are starting with, and try to help that tool do it's job. Don't try to make the tool behave in a way it was not built to behave. It's a real tuff battle that way. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2023 New Holland Workmaster 25S Compact Tractor - Only 65 Hours (A52128)
2023 New Holland...
2023 Bobcat T770 Skidloader (RIDE AND DRIVE) (LIKE NEW) (A50774)
2023 Bobcat T770...
2013 Ford Focus Sedan (A50324)
2013 Ford Focus...
2017 FREIGHTLINER CASCADIA TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A51222)
2017 FREIGHTLINER...
2013 UTILITY VS2DX 53FT DRY VAN TRAILER (A51222)
2013 UTILITY VS2DX...
Mayrath 10 x 32 Auger (A50514)
Mayrath 10 x 32...
 
Top