50hr maintenance

Anonymous Poster · Nov 30, 2000

looking at 50hr maintenance. Talked with some dealers about trick and trips to make the process easyer. a couple said don,t bother with changing the hydro fluild it a waste of good fuild, but do change the filter. Change the oil and the filter. Should I go the extra mile or is this good advice.

hayden · Nov 30, 2000

I would do the full maintenance exactly as perscribed in your owners manual, keep a log of it and other maintenance you perform, and keep your receipts for the parts/fluid.

Setting aside whether it's needed or not (I won't go down that path - too tired right now), if you have done the service and you have troubles down the line, you will be in a sound position making a warranty claim. If something goes wrong and you have NOT done the full service, you will be at a clear disadvantage making a waranty claim.

TWINKLE_TOES · Nov 30, 2000

I am surprised to hear that dealers would make that recommendation. I would not go to them for maintenance if they like to cut corners, nor would I role the dice on the hydraulic fluid change. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Thomas · Dec 1, 2000

Chris,
I would change the fuild,kinda like insurance if you change the fuild.
Be sure to put little fuild around the new filter gasket before tighten.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

WillingtonPizza · Dec 1, 2000

I would change the fluid, besides it is excellent bar chain oil in chain saws. Just pour your fluid thru a paint filter.

Anonymous Poster · Dec 2, 2000

NO NO NO!
It doesn't make excellent bar oil. Buy a qt of bar oil put a little on your fingers and squeeze them together then pull them apart. See how it kind of seperates and makes strings udt doesn't do that and it wont stick to your bar and chain either..

Bird · Dec 2, 2000

I agree with kubmech; UDT is a long ways from being similar to the bar oil that should be used.

Bird

msocko3 · Dec 2, 2000

Me thinks someone hates their chain saw./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

PaulB · Dec 2, 2000

Chris - I intend to have one tractor for the rest of my life, so if anything I get a little overboard with maintanance, but here is what I did. I changed my engine oil and filter at 25 and 50 hours, and changed my hydraulic filter at 25 hours, filter and fluid at 50 hours. At the 50 hour, I also took apart my HST filter screen, even though the manual says to do it first at 200 hours. I am glad I did it early, becausse there were metal shavings trapped in it. Remember, your FIRST oil change is the most important one in the life of your machine.

TWINKLE_TOES · Dec 2, 2000

I just finished my 50 hr service on the B21 (today), what a job. I am realy glad my barn has a crushed rock floor. You can't put 7.5 gallons in a five gallon bucket./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

The filtered engine oil showed nothing other than a few quite small "Jelly globs" which I believe are cellulose particles from a wipe down at assembly.

The filtered transmission fluid had no metal chips or filings, but did have paint flakes, some were probably from removal of the drain plug.

The filter had one large paint flake, again probably from removal of the filter.

The transmission sump strainer showed no evidence of metal filings. Some extremly small very dark flakes were present.
I suspect these were from the welding of the screen at the top and base.

The transmission fluid was nearly as clear as the new fluid.

On the B21 removal and installation of the HST filter is not fun. The Zippy little oil filter wrench that came with the tractor fits the original filter but not the replacement. The Kubota filter from the dealers is a smaller diameter. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

The sump strainer was a little curious. After cleaning and installation it is relatively easy to rotate from the attachment hose. It does have an "O" ring to keep it from sucking air, but I expected it to fit tighter, guess not.