5205 Clutch issues

   / 5205 Clutch issues #1  

MrWhipple

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2012
Messages
30
Tractor
John Deere 5205
OK folks looking for some advice, since there is no way I'm paying the stealership $4,000 or more to do the job....

Last year had local Deere dealer take the tractor in because the PTO clutch lever wouldn't move reliably, they called "Your traction clutch needs to be done." "How much?" I ask.....after I reinstalled my lower jaw I told them free up the PTO and bring it back. VERY large bill and what I suspect was a couple squirts of PB-Blaster later it came back.

So I've got the books, I'm very mechanically inclined, and planning on doing the job myself. However I've never split a tractor, so I'm looking for guidance/advice.

My plan is to use a sled on roller conveyor to jack one half or the other up and then be able to move it. Jack under the other half to hold it in place. Which end would be easier to move front or rear?

If the answer is front does anyone have the plans for the loader support bars so I can pull that off?

The book talks about a couple of special tools:
John Deere JDG1337 ---- clutch compressor tool
John Deere JDG1338 ---- clutch finger measuring tool

Are these vital? I figured I could compress the clutch housing using a shop press buffered with some wood and then pop the clips.
For the finger clearance does anyone have that dimension?

Thanks,
Jim
 
   / 5205 Clutch issues #2  
Way back in the 70's-80's when I was a JD dealer service manager the technicians rolled back part of tractor by pushing on rear tire cleats when splitting. When rejoining halves don't force together but ""finesse back together""" while turning engine flywheel if accessible.
 
   / 5205 Clutch issues #3  
You will move front away from rear. Not hard. Use some 2x4 blocks on bottom side of engine right above front axle or you engine and all will pivot and scare the crap out of you. Block it up tight. If you are doing the entire clutch like you should then you don’t need those special tools. You don’t have to adjust or measure the fingers. Block up the rear of tractor at hitch and use a jack stand right under transmission. Move the front away. I’ve done this job several times when I worked for deere.
 
   / 5205 Clutch issues #4  
OK folks looking for some advice, since there is no way I'm paying the stealership $4,000 or more to do the job....

Last year had local Deere dealer take the tractor in because the PTO clutch lever wouldn't move reliably, they called "Your traction clutch needs to be done." "How much?" I ask.....after I reinstalled my lower jaw I told them free up the PTO and bring it back. VERY large bill and what I suspect was a couple squirts of PB-Blaster later it came back.

So I've got the books, I'm very mechanically inclined, and planning on doing the job myself. However I've never split a tractor, so I'm looking for guidance/advice.

My plan is to use a sled on roller conveyor to jack one half or the other up and then be able to move it. Jack under the other half to hold it in place. Which end would be easier to move front or rear?

If the answer is front does anyone have the plans for the loader support bars so I can pull that off?

The book talks about a couple of special tools:
John Deere JDG1337 ---- clutch compressor tool
John Deere JDG1338 ---- clutch finger measuring tool

Are these vital? I figured I could compress the clutch housing using a shop press buffered with some wood and then pop the clips.
For the finger clearance does anyone have that dimension?

Thanks,
Jim

I have done it TWICE with my 32HP Ford (bad replacement clutch).
Like you, I was a total (76 yr. old) novice, but I had a friend helping (he had the knowledge) who had done several tractor clutches before.
Can you find a knowledgeable friend to help you?
The project should take you 8-10 hours total.
 
   / 5205 Clutch issues #5  
When you do the clutch, is it wise to order the throwout and pilot bearings and bushings as well? What about the rear main seal?
 
   / 5205 Clutch issues #6  
When you do the clutch, is it wise to order the throwout and pilot bearings and bushings as well? What about the rear main seal?

Yes I would do pilot and throw out. Rear main I wouldn’t mess with it unless it is leaking.
 

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