530 ck wont start

[joebob]

I have a Case 530 CK that might be used only maybe 2 or 3 times a year. It would always start OK, but the other day it would'nt. I'm thinking it might need bleeding, but I never had to do it before. I did bleed at the 2 filters, & the pump inlet, no joy. It's a Roosa Master pump, it has a bleed plug on the bott, of the pump. I have a new pump to put on, but the timing procedure sounds a bit fussy. I don't see any way to revolve the engine other than the starter. If I should replace the pump, are there things to do before removing the pump to avoid the timing procedure in the Case manual? Any help greatly appreciated
Cheers
Joebob

 

[SantasForest]

Whats in it? A cummins?

 

[TraderMark]

Joebob,
After you've bled the system at the filters and at the pump inlet, you'll probably need to loosen each injector line at the injector and bleed those lines too.
Be careful about removing any plugs from a RoosaMaster/Stanadyne pump. Most of those pumps do not have bleeder screws, they were bled at the pump inlet. And a bleeder screw is not going to be at the bottom. Air rises. A bleeder screw will be at the top.

As for changing out the pumps, are you going to leave the pump drive shaft with the engine when you remove the old pump or are you going to remove the shaft with the pump?
It can be done either way, each way having its own pros and cons.

Hope this helps.
Mark

 

[TraderMark]

Whats in it? A cummins?

The 530 Case had a 188 Case diesel. Predecessor to the Case/Cummins hybrids.

 

[SantasForest]

I was gonna say to check the fuel shut off solenoid.

 

[TraderMark]

No solenoid for fuel shut off on those old 530's. Manual shut off via cable. A quick check to verify cable operation would be a good idea.

I would loosen the injector lines and verify they have fuel passing through them before going much farther.

Mark

 

[joebob]

First, I will finish bleeding at the injectors. If I get no fuel, then what, install pump? I have the Case shop manual, & it looks like the pump shaft is attached to it's gear in the timing case, so it will remain. The shaft has a small hole on the end of the tang to match the hole in the slot on the pump, so you don't get it 180 degrees out. If I crank the engine so the timing marks on the pump line up before I remove it, can I set the new pump the same & install it without going thru the timing procedure? Do I need the special tool for the shaft seals? or I could make one if needed. It looks like a mini ring compressor.The pump I have for a replacement is a DBG FCC 431 27 A.J. 1900RPM. The pump on the engine has same #, but 1600 RPM. It looks to be new or rebuilt w/ seals intact. Whats the 1/4" pipe plug on the bott. for? Thanks you guys.

 

[TraderMark]

If this was my machine and I'd already established that I have full fuel flow through the filters and no air at the filters or pump inlet I'd next check for pump output by loosening the injector lines.

If I had no pump output I'd use the handle of a screwdriver and lightly tap the top cover of the pump. These pumps don't really like sitting for long periods of time. The metering valve can stick and sometimes a light tap can jar it loose.

If I still had no fuel output then I'd change the pump.

 

[TraderMark]

You are spot on with the pump change procedure. Line up the timing marks in the little window on the old pump before you remove it. Line up the marks in the window of the new pump before you install it.

As for the umbrella seals, lube them copiously with something like white lithium grease. Some people have great success using the special toil while others swear by using a blunt tipped screwdriver. Which ever method you use, use plenty is lube. Lube the bore of the pump as well and cross your fingers.

You may have to rotate the new pump to get the timing where you want it after you get her running.

 

[joebob]

A blunt tip screwdriver? How's that going to work to install the pump shaft in the pump? The tool in the book looks like a little cliplike thingy that works like a ring compressor to squeeze the seals, to slide the shaft into the pump. The book says if you roll the seals trying to slide the shaft in, throw the seals away, & get new ones. They make it sound like it might be a difficult job, & you need the tool. Sorry for all the fussy questions, I'm just wanting to be prepared ahead of time if it comes to that. Thanks Mark for your help.
Cheers
Bob