5425 won't start - nothing

[duckduke]

I used the 5425 several times the past several days with no problem.

I used several times this AM. After about 4-5 hours I climbed on and turned the key and nothing.

Turn key to on, no alarms, no display, etc. Turn to start .... nothing. No clicks, no engine turn over, still no display, nothing.

All lights appear to work and display does come on with light switch.

Battery appears ok (12.6v).
-Checked grounds, i cleaned grounds and battery posts. -Checked fuses, all appear good.
-Checked pto lever, check

It seems that if solenoid was the problem, It would still have dash dingers and display.

Seems to me it has to be a safety switch or ignition/key switch.

Any thoughts!!!

Note: this actually happened about 2 weeks ago and I have been pulling my hair out over it. I keep trying to figure it out but so far at a loss. Plan to try and get to the switch next day or 2 to test/check.

 

[CobyRupert]

Are you positive that all fuses aren’t blown. Especially fuse F1. If it is, replace fuse and unplug sensor on the fuel pump and then try it.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-ag-tractors/289719-f1fuse-jd5425-keeps-blowing.html

 

[seville009]

sounds to me like it’s a safety switch type issue; that’s where I’d start at least. Make sure everything is in neutral/disengaged and see what happens. Check the safety wiring - I had one break on a zero turn. If you have a switch on the seat, maybe bypass it as a test (unplug it and jump the female plug with a piece of wire).

As suggested above, check all of your sensor fuses again too.

 

[Tx Jim]

duckduke
Did you you check for good/clean/tight negative battery cable connection to tractor frame? Did you attempt to short across starter solenoid. BE SURE trans is not in a gear or have someone sitting in operators seat with clutch pedal depressed.

 

[Spindifferent]

I just replaced the rotary (ignition) switch on my JD 3520 after having similar electrical symptoms - with one big difference in that the switch was physically broken. The key just turned freely and completely around in the switch.

It seems like the rotary switch is a common part used over many years and models. You can likely find it easily. Here's the part number for my JD 3520. Not sure if it the same for your unit.

Rotary Switch
Part Number LVA21501
Description
ROTARY SWITCH,IGNITION,KEY,4-POS

 

[beenthere]

See that you haven't been back to see any comments, but assume you have checked that the PTO is not engaged.. another "safety" switch likely there that if engaged won't allow a start.
Hope to hear back about what has been checked out.

 

[duckduke]

See that you haven't been back to see any comments, but assume you have checked that the PTO is not engaged.. another "safety" switch likely there that if engaged won't allow a start.
Hope to hear back about what has been checked out.

Thanks!! Checked as indicated in original post (this actually got me about 5-6 weeks ago). Yesterday i even pulled the housing off to make sure the switch was operating properly

 

[duckduke]

duckduke
Did you you check for good/clean/tight negative battery cable connection to tractor frame? Did you attempt to short across starter solenoid. BE SURE trans is not in a gear or have someone sitting in operators seat with clutch pedal depressed.

Thanks!! I checked battery connections and ground as indicated in the first post. I also cleaned battery connections and ground connections, reconnected all and checked with volt meter to make sure each ground wire was grounded.

Have not attempted to short across solenoid. The way this solenoid is made, it only has a heavy coated wire going into the starter. I dont really see a way to test/short across it. The only visible post is on the battery supply side.

 

[duckduke]

Are you positive that all fuses aren’t blown. Especially fuse F1. If it is, replace fuse and unplug sensor on the fuel pump and then try it.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-ag-tractors/289719-f1fuse-jd5425-keeps-blowing.html

Thanks!! I had already found/read that thread. I tried unplugging the sensor and turning key (nothing)...... but..... I did not go back and specifically double check F1 fuse. Will do that in the am b4 heading to real job.

 

[duckduke]

sounds to me like it’s a safety switch type issue; that’s where I’d start at least. Make sure everything is in neutral/disengaged and see what happens. Check the safety wiring - I had one break on a zero turn. If you have a switch on the seat, maybe bypass it as a test (unplug it and jump the female plug with a piece of wire).

As suggested above, check all of your sensor fuses again too.

Thanks!! My shifter has a detent/notch on the shaft that hooks into a catch when shifter is placed in park. Shifter is in park with notch locked in the catch. (Note: there has t be an electrical switch somewhere on transmission, only God knows where that is. I wanted t find it so I could check it but I have not located it.).

I have the seat unbolted to pull pto lever housing but it appears u have to take seat down further t get to the seat switch. But, I think 5425 starts without being in seat. It just has an alarm if you are out of seat with pto running. (I think). I should be able to find a harness connector to jump to test anyway.

 

[duckduke]

Are you positive that all fuses aren’t blown. Especially fuse F1. If it is, replace fuse and unplug sensor on the fuel pump and then try it.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-ag-tractors/289719-f1fuse-jd5425-keeps-blowing.html

Coby gets the prize!!!!

Before leaving the house this AM I went to specifically locate/check F1 fuse.
- pulled F1 .... still looked good ... put it back in ... turned key ..... nothing
- why not... new 20amp fuse...... replaced F1 .......... turned key ...... all good, dingers, display, starter turned, etc.

Did not fully start engine as I have loose bolts on starter (preping to remove starter/solenoid), loose battery cables, etc.

I DID NOT unplug the sensor, but I know if F1 blows again that the sensor is the likely culprit.

For now everything appears good. I just need to get everything back together and crank her up.

Thanks for all the input!!!!!!!

(NOTE: My eyes are perfect!!:thumbsup: But even in good light at 8 AM when I pulled F1 this morning it looked fine. There is a wear mark on the side of the fuse which kind of diffuses the view of the fuse body. Looking at the fuse in better light and at different angles you can clearly see the fuse is burnt. But, looking at it in the field it was almost non-detectable. Since it appeared I had a dead electrical circuit (lights worked, etc. but switch did not) ........ the fuse panel is the first thing I checked. I just need to find a better method to check fuses apparently. It would have saved a ton of time since the fuses were the first thing I checked.

 

[Zebrafive]

If the fuse(s) are the ones with two metal legs that plug in, ATC or ATO blade style fuses. There are two bare metal spots at the top, one above each leg/blade, that you can touch a test light or meter probe to. If you have current in, then you should have current out/across the fuse.

This spring a friend brought me his lawn tractor. He said it would not crank and he checked the fuses. I tested them and found a bad one. Replaced it and tractor started right up. He swore they all "looked: good when he checked them.

 

[CobyRupert]

My #1 question would be why did the fuse blow?
My understanding is that when the sensor fails, it shorts and blows fuse. Never heard of one un-shorting. (Maybe it un-shorts when temps get higher? Anything is possible I suppose.)

 

[beenthere]

Rig a 12v lightbulb to plug in place of the fuse. If there is a short, the bulb will be lit. When the short is found, then the bulb will go off and is likely safe to replace a good fuse.

 

[Brown Dog]

Faulty ignition key switch will no spin or start on these tractors but wouldn’t blow a fuse I wouldn’t think.

Also If / when they’ll crank up & run : sometimes the switch won’t power up the dash therefore the power reverser will not take gear.

 

[BJCrites]

Coby gets the prize!!!!

Before leaving the house this AM I went to specifically locate/check F1 fuse.
- pulled F1 .... still looked good ... put it back in ... turned key ..... nothing
- why not... new 20amp fuse...... replaced F1 .......... turned key ...... all good, dingers, display, starter turned, etc.

Did not fully start engine as I have loose bolts on starter (preping to remove starter/solenoid), loose battery cables, etc.

I DID NOT unplug the sensor, but I know if F1 blows again that the sensor is the likely culprit.

For now everything appears good. I just need to get everything back together and crank her up.

Thanks for all the input!!!!!!!

(NOTE: My eyes are perfect!! But even in good light at 8 AM when I pulled F1 this morning it looked fine. There is a wear mark on the side of the fuse which kind of diffuses the view of the fuse body. Looking at the fuse in better light and at different angles you can clearly see the fuse is burnt. But, looking at it in the field it was almost non-detectable. Since it appeared I had a dead electrical circuit (lights worked, etc. but switch did not) ........ the fuse panel is the first thing I checked. I just need to find a better method to check fuses apparently. It would have saved a ton of time since the fuses were the first thing I checked.

Thanks! Great post! It was our F1 Fuse too. As you mentioned, my husband checked the fuses yesterday, and they looked alright. After I read your post to him, he rechecked that fuse, and sure enough, it was cracked. Installed 20 Amp, fired it up!

 

[Brown Dog]

Thanks! Great post! It was our F1 Fuse too. As you mentioned, my husband checked the fuses yesterday, and they looked alright. After I read your post to him, he rechecked that fuse, and sure enough, it was cracked. Installed 20 Amp, fired it up!

Did You unplug the temp sensor ?

 

[BJCrites]

No! The fuse blew again this morning. Guess we will be unplugging the sensor now. Thank you!

 

[BJCrites]

It blew fuse with the sensor unplugged. Does this indicate a short?

 

[beenthere]

Think that is true.
Plug a 12v light bulb into the fuse slot. Then look for the short. When you find/fix it, the light bulb will go out and then should be safe to put a fuse back in the fuse slot.