55 Rancher clutch trouble

[Colby Forest]

If anyone can help on this...

Have a Husky 55 Rancher, which has been great but now has a fickle clutch. The engine seems to be running fine. The clutch engages and moves the chain around the bar when I pull the trigger, but as soon as it bites into any wood it refuses to go any further. The chain stops, but there is no noticeable difference in engine sound. Everything has been greased and oiled the way it should be. The chain is sharp, not putting any undue pressure on it (which might bog it down).

Have taken apart the clutch and cleaned it, making sure there was no oil or grease that might be making it slip. Did not see any obvious wear or problem. Still won't cut wood. Any ideas?

 

[Scooby074]

Hmm.. If the clutch is clean and oil free. How does the friction material look on the shoes?

How olds the saw? How much wood has been cut? The clutches can wear out. Does the friction material look glazed?

 

[Colby Forest]

Saw is 4 years old. Has cut the equivalent of about 12 cords of firewood. Will look closer at the clutch.

What part of NS are you in? Have relatives in southern NS.

 

[Scooby074]

Central Nova . Pictou County.

Yeah id look at the friction surface. The chain is tensioned correctly?

While your in there, have a look at the drive sprocket. They're on splines off the clutch drum. These can wear out

But if i was a bettin man, id say your clutch shoes are shot or were contaminated at one point. If memory serves, replacement shoes shouldnt be too expensive.. If the chain was skipping on the sprocket you'd likely feel it.

 

[Colby Forest]

Chain tension is fine. Sprocket looked ok. Haven't had a chance to take it apart again, but when I do, I'll look more closely at the friction surface.

 

[Colby Forest]

Update-

Got a new sprocket anyway. Replaced it, cleaned clutch with carburetor cleaner, since the drum was $20 and the shoes were over $50. Repair guy said clutch and drum looked fine. Put a new chain on. Cleaned the air filter. Didn't work. Then went on to the carburetor and made adjustments according to the manual to increase engine speed slightly. Seems to be working OK now. Might tweek it a bit more, but don't like messing with those jet adjustments. Have to do it by ear. Is there such a thing as an rpm meter for chainsaws? If so, are they expensive and how do they work?

 

[Scooby074]

Baileys sells 2 stroke tachs. Bailey's - SenDEC STS-5000 Shop Tachometer. im sure you can find it other places. I always do it by ear, following the manual. A tach would likely help.
Stihl also makes one called the EDT7 that seems highly rated. May be easier to find at your local dealer.

Strange about the saw now working. Wonder what the problem was? Was the clutch dry after you cleaned it, and it was slipping? Usually a small increase in RPM wouldnt make the clutch engage because it engages over a fairly wide range. Is the saw able to cut at half throttle?

 

[Colby Forest]

Thanks for the link.
Clutch has always been dry. As soon as I see the chain stop, for whatever reason, whether it was stopping on its own, or getting bogged down or pinched, I release the throttle so as not to burn out the clutch. Seems the engine might have some more power now. Hard to hear the difference in engine sound when you're working with ear protection on. Haven't tried it at half throttle.

 

[Scooby074]

Next time it stops, give it some throttle and see if the engine loads up. It should if the clutch is engaged. If the engine revs free, then the clutch almost has to be slipping . Also try part throttle and see what happens.