60" King Kutter Tiller

/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #21  
The manual for the tiller can also be found taped to the underside of the hinged backplate assembly, should you remember to look for it before you spend the whole day tilling up your field and wondering why you didn't get a manual.

Don't ask.

-Jim
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #22  
I'm going to be picking my tiller up tomorrow and I just had some questions. Somewhere I read that this tiller comes with a slip clutch I think it is, and that I need to make sure that's the pto that I get. Is this correct?

Also,
For anyone that has a sub compact, I have a ccy sc2400, do you have to cut the PTO shaft? I have a HF QH that I'm thinking I might use with the tiller to help extend the distance behind the tractor. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

I plan on going over it bolt by bolt just to make sure that everything is tight as I don't want something coming apart the first time I use it.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #23  
The HF quick attach might not work on that tiller. When I called King Kutter to ask about the differneces between the KKll and the KK Profesional tillers, they said the Profesional series was built for quick attach systems.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #24  
I was kind of afraid of that. I figured I might have to do some grinding somewhere. I think there might be a post somewhere on tbn that talks about using this tiller or another with a QH and what they had to modify.

Thanks for the info,
Greg
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #25  
Both gearboxes.

From the manual:

BEFORE PUTTING ROTARY TILLER INTO SERVICE
(IMPORTANT-INSTRUCTIONS PRIOR TO START UP)
SHIPPED WITHOUT OIL IN GEAR BOXES AND WITHOUT GREASE IN
GREASE FITTINGS. UNIT MUST BE SERVICED BEFORE USING.
Fill Gearbox using gear oil (type GL5-85W 140 or Triple Zero
Grease; which can be poured, and has "EP" i.e. "Extreme Pressure"
additives.)
For all Grease Fittings use TYPE/grade II tube grease.

From the grease description above......doesn't the type GL5-85W spec mean 85 weight grease (to 140)????

If so, would not my 90 wt grease be adequate??

When I read the manual (which is 200 miles away with my tractor) I thought the spec included regular 90 grease. I don't want to change grease if I don't need to.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #26  
GL5-85W 140 is gear oil with an EP (extreme pressure) additive for high sliding velocity gears.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #27  
GL5-85W 140 is gear oil with an EP (extreme pressure) additive for high sliding velocity gears.
All gear oils/greases have the EP rating. The 85W/140 will be thicker than the 90weight at high temperature [100C], but close enuff to the same at normal running temperature of the gearbox to be almost no issue.

OP,I imagine your seal is just seeping. Mine does. I check the oil before use. I havnt lost enuf to require adding any. The bottom gear picks it up well even if some low and flings it everywhere.
larry
 
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/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #28  
Also,
For anyone that has a sub compact, I have a ccy sc2400, do you have to cut the PTO shaft?

I have the 6' KK2 and using it with a std 3 pt on a compact tractor and I had to cut my shaft about 3" however I left it with just enough slip so I would have enough shaft if I go to quick connect in the future.

Steve
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #29  
I have the 6' KK2 and using it with a std 3 pt on a compact tractor and I had to cut my shaft about 3" however I left it with just enough slip so I would have enough shaft if I go to quick connect in the future.

Steve

Steve,

Thanks for the information. That was my thought also was that if I needed to cut it, which I figured I would, was that I would leave enough so that I could go to a quick hitch in the future.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #30  
From the grease description above......doesn't the type GL5-85W spec mean 85 weight grease (to 140)????

If so, would not my 90 wt grease be adequate??

When I read the manual (which is 200 miles away with my tractor) I thought the spec included regular 90 grease. I don't want to change grease if I don't need to.


The difference in viscosity in the 80w90 and the 85w140 oil at 40c is 139 vs 411. At 100c it is 15 vs 30.3, data from here: main_page [SubsTech]

All I can recommend is to use what the manual says to use. I did not and the tiller leaked like a sieve, I replaced the seals and changed the oil to the correct weight and have had no more issues. I actually believe I could have just changed the oil, becasue the old seals looked perfect.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #31  
I picked up the tiller today. While looking over the tillers, they had 2 KingKutter and 2 countyline tillers sitting there, I noticed that the countyline and the KK had the same part numbers. The only difference that I could tell were the stickers, one saying kk and the other countyline. The countyline had an aluminum leg on the side for a so called stand. Other than that they looked exactly the same.

Now it's time to cut the pto and fill up the gear oil and see how this thing works.
 
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/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #32  
The HF quick attach might not work on that tiller. When I called King Kutter to ask about the differneces between the KKll and the KK Profesional tillers, they said the Profesional series was built for quick attach systems.

It sure does.. This is the narrow version of the HF hitch. I have had this tiller since spring of 03, and had it on a JD 2210, and now my 2520 and have always used this HF quick hitch and never cut anyting on the PTO shaft.

P1000360.jpg
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#33  
what are the advantages of using a quick hitch? I have never been around one? Don't even know how they work. Could someone explain them to me? Thanks:confused:
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #34  
It didn't work on my wide version of the HF quick hitch without modification to the hitch. I had to cut and grind off about a 3/8 inch of the hook parts to make it fit.
 

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/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #35  
It sure does.. This is the narrow version of the HF hitch. I have had this tiller since spring of 03, and had it on a JD 2210, and now my 2520 and have always used this HF quick hitch and never cut anyting on the PTO shaft.

Thanks for the information. I filled it with GL5-85W 140 gear oil last night and was going to measure the pto today. I think I'll try it on the HF QH and see if it works. I have the narrow QH. I would think the QH would add enough length not to have to cut the pto as it looks like it's about 2-3 inches to long.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #36  
It didn't work on my wide version of the HF quick hitch without modification to the hitch. I had to cut and grind off about a 3/8 inch of the hook parts to make it fit.

I had the same problem as Cocre so I had to grind some off of the QH.

Newt92 or Cocre,
You wouldn't happen to have a close up picture of the hook with the tiller mounted would you? I noticed that what looks like a bushing on the bolt that goes through the frame there, doesn't bottom out inside of the hook. I was thinking of getting the top adapter bracket and using that. I ran out of time today to keep messing with it so probably won't get back to it until Wednesday or so. Thanks for the help.
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #37  
what are the advantages of using a quick hitch? I have never been around one? Don't even know how they work. Could someone explain them to me? Thanks:confused:

iplumb,
A quick hitch allows you an easier time in hooking up your attachments. Not all attachments can be used with a quick hitch I don't believe. Most of the time you should be able to just back up to the attachment lift up your 3pt and the attachment is hooked up and ready to be used. Here some info about JD imatch quick hitch.
iMatch Quick-Hitch and iMatch AutoHitch : iMatch
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #38  
I had the same problem as Cocre so I had to grind some off of the QH.

Newt92 or Cocre,
You wouldn't happen to have a close up picture of the hook with the tiller mounted would you? I noticed that what looks like a bushing on the bolt that goes through the frame there, doesn't bottom out inside of the hook. I was thinking of getting the top adapter bracket and using that. I ran out of time today to keep messing with it so probably won't get back to it until Wednesday or so. Thanks for the help.

I don't have a picture, but I do have the adapter. I have just about given up on the QH. I could never get it to work right with my KK brush mower. The top link connection has to be able to float to allow the mower to tilt up when going over uneven ground, even with the adapter (which wouldn't fit at all in that situation) the mower was locked for the most part. I have debated buying Pat's or one of it's clones, but with my JD 3320 the hitch arms can be spread apart and held in place by the sway links (they are not just chain) making it fairly simple just to spread the arms apart and back up a straight as you can. I also now have hydraulic top and side links that make for easy adjustements.

I also opened up the QH toplink hook in hopes of getting it to fit the tiller without the adapter. I get it to work, but use the adapter because it just works better.
 
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/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #39  
I ordered the top link adapter for the QH last night so will see how that goes. I thought about trying to open up the hook also and might go that route. Other than that after I ground some of the QH off, I was able to back right up to the tiller and connect the hitch arms, it was just the top link that wasn't fitting just right.

I was also looking at Pat's thinking that might be easier route to go.

Thanks again for the info
 
/ 60" King Kutter Tiller #40  
I had the same problem as Cocre so I had to grind some off of the QH.

Newt92 or Cocre,
You wouldn't happen to have a close up picture of the hook with the tiller mounted would you? I noticed that what looks like a bushing on the bolt that goes through the frame there, doesn't bottom out inside of the hook. I was thinking of getting the top adapter bracket and using that. I ran out of time today to keep messing with it so probably won't get back to it until Wednesday or so. Thanks for the help.


Guess my mind is slipping, I forgot I had to tweek a bit. Yes I had to grind some off that bushing. I think about 50% around where it contacts the "U" part of the hitch on each side. Also, like Cocre says, I also had to cut (w/sawall) some off the back part of the "U" hook on each side where it contacts the tiller during hookup. I can get pictures of what Im talking about tonight and post them up, getting ready to leave for work now or I would get them now.
 
 

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