6013 vs mg 500

[6sunset6]

Is this the same rod?
I usually use 1/8 6011 AC welder only
I have to weld some 3/4 plate on a log splitter build. I wanted to use 5/32 and stopped in the local welding place . He suggested MG 500. I got 2 # it was $10 a #. Pricey. But it worked very well. I looked it up and it appears to be the same as 6013. 6011 has deeper penetration and more splatter. I can see that. I need more 5/32. Tractor supply has Hobart 6011 5/32 10# for $26. 6013 10# for $28 I also cannot decide between 6011 and 6013 .

 

[gwdixon]

MG500 is a really nice running rod. I had some of it and a professional welder friend was quite impressed with it. Other than that, I don't know the specs. If you looked it up and the specs are the same then that should cinch it.

6013 has its place but for most farm work the 6011 will hold things together better despite how ugly the welds can be in the hands of a hick farmer.

Have you tried using 7018 AC? It is really pretty, strong, and puts down lots of metal.

 

[6sunset6]

The local supplier mentioned 7018 but said he did not have any for AC.
I think I am going to try some 5/32 6011. I can always grind off the splatter .
This is a log splitter and not a fuel tank for NASA.

 

[yomax4]

If you dig very deep into the Messer Co. ( MG ) You will find that they have several types of the same rod. Some are the origional German Recipe and the other similar rod is a generic type equivelant. Take MG 289 cast rod ( I think it's the 289 but don't have my book in front of me ). Very expensive but is the German formula. They have 2 other vesions that are generic type formulas for half the cost. MG500 is also the Geman recipe and is expensive 6013 rod. Good products. I went through their school back in the early 90's. They also make rods for many companies and I think you would be suprised if I listed them. ( can't )

 

[gwdixon]

The local supplier mentioned 7018 but said he did not have any for AC.
I think I am going to try some 5/32 6011. I can always grind off the splatter .
This is a log splitter and not a fuel tank for NASA.

Tractor Supply usually has Hobart 7018 AC. Just look on the box of 7018 for the "AC". You'll really like it as it has much less splatter than 6011.

If you haven't used it before you'll likely be amazed. It doesn't restart great and has to be kept dry but if that is not a factor it is worthwhile for at least a try-out.

 

[Soundguy]

The local supplier mentioned 7018 but said he did not have any for AC.
I think I am going to try some 5/32 6011. I can always grind off the splatter .
This is a log splitter and not a fuel tank for NASA.

remember.. you can always do the hard work with 6011, then clean up and top coat with 6013 for the 'row of dimes' look..

soundguy

 

[easygo]

I just bought a 5# box of regular (non-AC) 7018 rods made by Hobart. It is printed on the box that it is to be used on DCEP or AC but no DCEN mentioned. I welded with that stuff on DCEP and it runs great, but never tried it on AC. I wonder if someone with experience in this matter can chime in about that?

 

[yomax4]

I just bought a 5# box of regular (non-AC) 7018 rods made by Hobart. It is printed on the box that it is to be used on DCEP or AC but no DCEN mentioned. I welded with that stuff on DCEP and it runs great, but never tried it on AC. I wonder if someone with experience in this matter can chime in about that?

It says on the box to run on DCEP and that's what you did. That's how it runs .

 

[easygo]

I posted the question to see if anyone has experience running said 7018 rod on AC because it says so on the box that it can be used on DCEP and AC. If that is the case the OP could try to use that for his repair and save some runaround.

 

[lostcause]

i like 6011 as a great all-around rod. as my grandfather once put it: "you can weld rusty steel through 1/4" of cow manure with 6011." those weren't his exact words - this was edited for print. that's pretty much it though. 6011 is much more forgiving for making welds in an uncontrolled environment.

if you're building new in a shop there's lots of alternatives to allow better appearance and still get good penetration, but 6011 will still work there too. once you get used to it you can make a pretty decent looking bead. i've never used 6013 - always either 6011 or 7018.

7018 is a nice rod, as it lays a clean pretty bead, but there's always tons of debate about it too: it's a low hydrogen rod used for avoiding moisture and porosity in welds on higher strength newer steels. it's supposed to be dried before using, and most home/farm welders don't have that capability. i've used it out of the box, lying around the shop for days, and on ac (not 7018ac rod) and it has always worked ok for me, but as with most of us backyard welders, my welds don't undergo ultrasonic testing.

as i said, i'm only an amateur. i've had minimal luck laying a good open root pass with 7018, but i find it much easier with 6011. the average person doesn't have to do this anyways, and i generally use wire feed now, so i don't even practice it.