Buying Advice '66 165 advice?

[IIIBradIII]

New member here - been lurking for awhile but I need some advice. It appears you fellas know your stuff around here so I'd appreciate your input.

We recently purchased a few acres outside town to build on but until we do I need to keep it tidy and we may also plant a garden there in the spring. Some of the acreage has a decent slope to it, but I grew up driving tractors from the time I was about 10 til I left home at 18, so I'm comfortable with it (I will be installing a belt & ROPS though as I have become much more safety conscious since my younger years).

So there is my situation and here is what I've found...

A local, fairly solid '66 165 with 3000 hrs or so, Continental gas, working MP, ok rubber, working PS (turns just as easily either way), selectable live/independent pto, unknown hydraulics (owner has never used them in 10 years). The price is decent as well, which is the only reason I'm even considering something as large as a 165 (I've done a lot of work as a kid with a 135 gasser and really like that tractor).

I have driven it and it shifts fine, drives just like I remember a Massey driving, and all I can say is it feels good to be on a tractor again. :licking:

Here are some of the issues with it that I've encountered though, and I'd like your thoughts on whether I'm about to purchase a money-pit or not:

- Some white smoke at idle (probably related to the next item)
- Uses oil at a rate of a quart per 10hrs or so (yikes?)
- PS reservoir has fresh fluid on the outside of it
- Clutch doesn't engage a gear until *just* at the end of it's upward travel
- Seller mentioned arcing at the cap at night

I suspect worn rings as the cause of the smoke & oil usage, which of course means a tear-down in my future. The seller says that in all the years he's owned it, the tractor has always smoked at idle like that. I also happen to trust this seller, which normally I don't do.

If the seller is willing to meet me at my price (3k) I will be saving enough money to OH that Continental someday and should then have a really solid tractor. Although I consider myself somewhat handy I have never split a tractor - my father however has done it successfully a few times and would be able to assist when this becomes necessary.

Thoughts?

 

[massey driver]

One thing for sure seeing your living in hilly area make sure that the mulipower is working you need it for engine braking otherwise the tractor will run away if your going downhill.Do a compression test it'll give you some idea as to the shape of the motor.If valves/guides are bad it'll burn oil as well. $3000 for a tractor that size & vintage isn't all that out of line.As for the clutch it maybe out of adjustment.It's got the adjustment on the inside between the two clutch disc's as well as the external one to allow for the release brg free play.With any used tractor use your best judgement. Larry

 

[IIIBradIII]

Thanks Larry - how do you suggest I perform a compression test?

Also, I just re-read my message and I mispoke about the hydraulics. The 3pt works fine - I was trying to refer to the upper 2 hydraulic hose hookups. The 3pt seems to work so well actually, that when I tested it by leaving the bushog lifted off the ground and turned the tractor off, it never did lower it, even after a couple minutes of waiting.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

A quart in 10 hours is not a huge issue in a 45 year old gas engine and that is an awesome gas engine. That would by like a quart every 500 miles in a car.

I now happy FIL's 1976 265 diesel and I agree the MP feature can get you killed. I keep it in high on my hills (after a fast trip down) and only go to low on the flat OR to unlock the gears to shift.

These are big tractors in tight places but they will do a lot of work.

 

[IIIBradIII]

Murray - that's where my folks still live.

I take it you're referring to this being a difficult tractor to handle on hills WITHOUT the MP working?

 

[massey driver]

Thanks Larry - how do you suggest I perform a compression test?

QUOTE]

Compression tests are done by removing the spark plugs and using a compression tester[Gauge] to record the cylinder compression of each cylinder.The tractor does not run while you do this test.You have to have a tester its threaded into each splark plug hole [one at a time] you them spin the motor over several times using the starter then looking at the gauge and marking down the PSI of each cylinder. You do this to each cylinder.If you haven't ever done one or seen one done it might be a good idea to get some help from someone who has done this before.Of course you'll need a compression tester as well.I'am not sure if they still make the ones that have a rubber tip and you just hold them in but IMO get the one that threads into the sparkplug hole.

And yes Mulitpower tractors can be dangerous to use on hills if the mulitpower isn't working. Larry

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Murray - that's where my folks still live.

I take it you're referring to this being a difficult tractor to handle on hills WITHOUT the MP working?

Low MP is the same thing as taking it out of gear on a steep hill. It will go to the bottom where you hang on or NOT. I would have never bought this tractor had it not been the kids grand dad's tractor. It still has less than 1300 hours on it since new so it is an awesome tractor.

Look at the base models WITHOUT muti-power (MP for thoses who do not know this era of MF tractors) because they are your traditional four speed with H/L range. MP can be an expensive option to maintain 40 years later.

If you ever get to Murray send me a PM or google the info on the left to know more about me than I know about me.

 

[flusher]

I bought my 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe with multipower in July 06 for $3600. Spent a few months cleaning it up, rewiring, fixing leaks, repainting. About par for a 40 year old tractor. I have an oil leak around the rear crankshaft seal and the two-stage clutch needs to be rebuilt--so I'll be splitting that 135 pretty soon. While its apart, I'll dig into the multipower and get that thing serviced.

$3K for that MF165 gasser is not unreasonable if everything is working OK. Just be sure the clutch is working OK and that there's still enough adjustment on the clutch to get it there. After you buy it, change all the fluids, flush the radiator and clean all the crud out of the radiator fins.