7018AC rod - noob questions

[EuropaChris]

So I got my lead plugs all sorted out for my 180 amp Marquette buzz box freebie, bought a variety of rods, helmet, etc. I've run 6011 old 3/32" and new 1/8", 7014, tried some old 7018, and 7018AC.

The 7018AC is exhibiting the odd behavior of burning the core up inside the flux. I actually have to put some pressure down on the rod keeping it firm against the steel to keep it going, otherwise it just quits. I've tried a few settings and ended up running 160 to 180 amps (full bore).

The 6011 1/8" rod was running rather well around 125 amps (1/4" plate), so I don't think it's the welder itself - must be the operator!

Ideas? Comments? Help?

Chris

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Chris,

Most 7018's will fingernail or leave a hollow shell of flux on the side of the rod. You need to break the tip off the flux to get it to restart or firmly tap it to break loose the flux. Its possible that they rods could be a little old and the problem is compounded.

Also what polarity are you running? This could affect the burn off of the rod.

You might want to lower the amps on the 6011s. They should burn evenly at 100 amps.

 

[gauthier]

What the machine says as to how hot/amps,might not be what it is[and probably ain't],thats why its got a knob,just turn it till it runs best.

Yeah,7018 do burn wire inside coating,unlike 6010/6011.But sounds like they maybe/old damp,which makes them even worse,I don't like 7018,hard to restart,gotta keep in an oven,lower penatration than xx10

Sounds like an ac only box? I believe about any kinda rod burns better on dc,dcep is best for 7018.

 

[kevinj]

What the machine says as to how hot/amps,might not be what it is[and probably ain't],thats why its got a knob,just turn it till it runs best.

Yeah,7018 do burn wire inside coating,unlike 6010/6011.But sounds like they maybe/old damp,which makes them even worse,I don't like 7018,hard to restart,gotta keep in an oven,lower penatration than xx10

Sounds like an ac only box? I believe about any kinda rod burns better on dc,dcep is best for 7018.

He is talking 7018 AC which is made for the buzz box. 7018 is made to drag the flux on the work so he may be carrying too long an arc. I like 7014 on an AC machine.

I do agree about many machines not being calibrated and having to adjust to where they weld good.

 

[gauthier]

Like I said,any rod will burn better on dc than ac[even a 7018ac] you mean that ac stands for ac??Your 7014 will run better on dc too by the way.

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

I say you got a box of **** rod there are a lot of brands good and cheep you get the cheep it is hard to weld the good rod when you find it weld as good as 7014 try a good name brand :thumbsup: and AC

 

[kevinj]

Like I said,any rod will burn better on dc than ac[even a 7018ac] you mean that ac stands for ac??Your 7014 will run better on dc too by the way.

I am not saying that AC is better. I said that 7014 will run better on AC. That said I weld with a Dialarc 250 and a Trailblazer 250G and yes I use DC for the most part.

I did weld for years with AC and good results are to be had with proper rod selection.

 

[gauthier]

Well,7014 might,but bet that 7018ac won't.
Been a long time[if ever] I run a 7014,but every c/s type rod I ever messed with runs better on dc[even though it can be run on ac],would have to get a 7014 and try it,problem is,I don't have an ac welder to compare,so,if you say so.

 

[EuropaChris]

To add some information - all the rod I purchased is Hobart. I picked up a 1lb. pack of 6011 1/8", 6013 1/8", 7014 1/8" and 7018 1/8". I also picked up a 5lb box of 7018AC 1/8". The 6011 at 120 amps seems pretty hot, almost too hot. I have some old 3/32 6011 and that was running nice at 90 amps, but probably could run less as it was really aggressive at that setting. The 7018AC was a fresh box - just opened today, but that doesn't mean necessarily that the rods are truly dry.

I tried the 7014 the other day and it ran real nice, but didn't try that one today. I tried some OLD 7018 that has been open since '93 or so and it is just worthless - won't sustain the arc. I could try re-conditioning it, I suppose.

And yes, this is an AC-only welder, vintage 1972 or so. I've done some MIG welding here and there and have access to 400 amp 3 phase units running .045 (and larger) wire at work. Those will spoil a person - it's hard for me to even weld with a Millermatic 250 after smokin' stuff together with one of the "big boys"!

I wanted to learn stick welding for a few reasons. One, because I can, LOL. Two, it's "old school". However, it is also still very versatile and applicable to a wide variety of applications. I like old school stuff (I build vacuum tube audio and guitar amps), and especially old school that is "obsolete" because it's not the newest kid on the block so it isn't "cool". But, finally people come around and realize that while it might have been old technology, it also WORKED! I was burning 1/4" plate together today with 6011 1/8" rod and getting almost full penetration with only about 3/32" gap and no bevel. I'd have a tough time doing that with the Miller 250 MIG and .035 wire cranked up. Only moving up to the Big Bertha welders would get me that same heat into the joint with MIG.

Disclaimer: I am NOT a welder. I just make sparks and if I stick two pieces of steel together, it just might be accidental. But I've done a fair bit of reading and know just enough to be dangerous. So, take whatever I think with a big grain of salt. My ears are always open and nothing better than learning from someone who has burned rods for 40 years.

Chris

 

[rjmack]

i think the main problem is the a/c machine.

pretty well the only time you will see alternating current used in professional welding is for tig welding aluminum, then it is high frequency a/c.

first time i have every heard of 7018 designed for a/c. if i remember correctly, it is the 13 series suffix for a/c, eg; 6013 7013