770 loader on a 1700

[tree grower]

My 1979 1700 with 2800 hrs has a 770 loader. The PO was a landscaper, and I think he used it to move rocks. The pins and bushings are poorly designed, so all the grease in the world does not prevent some of the holes from enlarging. The whole FEL, as a unit, is sloppy. I would like to rebuild all the pivot points to tighten things up. Where can I purchase the heavy washer-like rings that are welded to the loader frames on higher quality units? The Du-all loader that came on my 1210 has almost as many hours, but due to design differences, is still very tight.

 

[JFS2295]

It sounds more like the PO did not grease the unit that often, or did not change the zerks when they became clogged.

If this is pins and their bores wear, then putting washers on the edges try to eliminate side to side play isn't going to do that much. Replacing the pins would get you half way back to new if the pins took half of the wear. That really depends on the grade of steel used for the pins and the frame. Easiest thing is first pull a couple of pins and look at the wear.

And rotating the pins 180ｰ just moves the wear around, not solving the issue.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

As Jack said, washers isn't the answer. You might be able to bore the holes out to the next size and replace the pins.If the pins are 5/8" bore them out to 3/4" and buy some 3/4 pins.
Bill

 

[RickB]

It sounds more like the PO did not grease the unit that often, or did not change the zerks when they became clogged.

That can't possibly be true. The OP says it's a design flaw.

 

[tree grower]

I'm pretty sure the pins are 3/4", and side to side play isn't the problem. The problem is the loader frame. Think of every pivot point as having two components- one fixed and one moving. The moving part is a sleeve with a zerk on the actuated member, the fixed part is the 'outside' that holds the pin in place. On any good loader, especially larger ones, there is a ring welded to the frame where each pin enters and leaves the frame. It does not function like a washer preventing pull-through of a bolt head, but is intended to reinforce the hole so the pin does not enlarge it from within. The 770 loader does not have these reinforcements. The fixed frame at each pivot point just has a 3/4" hole drilled through, and the pins have a tab welded on, with the tabs held in place with a short 3/8" bolt. If I can find the reinforcing rings, I can weld them on, replace the pins (yes, they are worn), and have a tight FEL. Each replacement pin will need to be 1/2" longer than the originals due to the thickness of the reinforcements. My problem is that I don't know what these items are called, and where to get them.

 

[RickB]

I'm pretty sure the pins are 3/4", and side to side play isn't the problem. The problem is the loader frame. Think of every pivot point as having two components- one fixed and one moving. The moving part is a sleeve with a zerk on the actuated member, the fixed part is the 'outside' that holds the pin in place. On any good loader, especially larger ones, there is a ring welded to the frame where each pin enters and leaves the frame. It does not function like a washer preventing pull-through of a bolt head, but is intended to reinforce the hole so the pin does not enlarge it from within. The 770 loader does not have these reinforcements. The fixed frame at each pivot point just has a 3/4" hole drilled through, and the pins have a tab welded on, with the tabs held in place with a short 3/8" bolt. If I can find the reinforcing rings, I can weld them on, replace the pins (yes, they are worn), and have a tight FEL. Each replacement pin will need to be 1/2" longer than the originals due to the thickness of the reinforcements. My problem is that I don't know what these items are called, and where to get them.

So what you really mean is you have a 30 year old loader that has been used commercially for a large percentage of its life and is worn out. It had to be decent to make it this far. Your approach to the repair is correct. You need to contact a local steel supplier and purchase mechanical tubing of the proper dimension to act as bushings. The pins with the ears for the anchor bolts will have to be custom made from suitable material if longer pins are required. This stuff won't be available off the shelf in a form ready to weld in and bolt on. You will be making a substantial investment for marginal benefit.