8n/48/front mount
- Thread starter tlh178
- Start date
- Views: 1245
RickB
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2000
- Messages
- 15,143
- Location
- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
The governor is the least of your problems. Check the oil pressure with a gauge of known accuracy. You have a faulty gauge, worn crankshaft bearings, a worn oil pump, bad pressure relief valve, or some combination of all.
thanks rick. sounds like its time too strip her down and start replacing some parts. i did replace some of the old oil lines. getting some leakage there also. not sure if i'm losing some pressure there. i didn't use any type of thread sealer. figured the flare would be leak free!
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
oil pressure is already likely leaking off thru a worn pump with excessive clearances, a weak relief spring, or the main and rod bearings as rick indicated.. or thru the cam and parent bore in the block that is not easilly renewedwithout custom machined inserts.
i'd do what rick said.
1, stop the leaks, 2, get a new gauge.. do an oil change to a good oil like a 15w40.. if she's still real low.. you have a couple options.
whole hog rebuild.. or a poor mans job.
if she starts fine and has plenty of power, drop the pan and roll in new main and rod bearing shells fo the same size as came out. if you want more work.. rebuild the oil pump.. that may require a trip to the machinist.
if she's a lil weak, pop the head and hand lap the valves, and throw a set of rings in her.. lightly hone the cyls for crosshatching and ream the ridge at the top of the cyl to protect the new rings.
cost is liekly less than 100$ for the poor mans upper and lower, even including the pan and head gasket.
renew or stretch / measure the oil pressure relief valve spring to make sure it is not broke or too weak / short.
that all togher usually buys you a few psi oil pressure and compression.
6 psi minimum at 1000 rpm is the red line go / no go number many people used. i like to see double digits on a working N when it is at pto rpm though. 20w50 oil might get you there in a bad case scenerio.
realize that is a bandaid.. much as the quickie 'before lunch' upper and lower I told you about too...
soundguy
i'd do what rick said.
1, stop the leaks, 2, get a new gauge.. do an oil change to a good oil like a 15w40.. if she's still real low.. you have a couple options.
whole hog rebuild.. or a poor mans job.
if she starts fine and has plenty of power, drop the pan and roll in new main and rod bearing shells fo the same size as came out. if you want more work.. rebuild the oil pump.. that may require a trip to the machinist.
if she's a lil weak, pop the head and hand lap the valves, and throw a set of rings in her.. lightly hone the cyls for crosshatching and ream the ridge at the top of the cyl to protect the new rings.
cost is liekly less than 100$ for the poor mans upper and lower, even including the pan and head gasket.
renew or stretch / measure the oil pressure relief valve spring to make sure it is not broke or too weak / short.
that all togher usually buys you a few psi oil pressure and compression.
6 psi minimum at 1000 rpm is the red line go / no go number many people used. i like to see double digits on a working N when it is at pto rpm though. 20w50 oil might get you there in a bad case scenerio.
realize that is a bandaid.. much as the quickie 'before lunch' upper and lower I told you about too...
soundguy
ToadHill
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2005
- Messages
- 2,662
- Location
- Catt county New York
- Tractor
- Kioti DK35, Ford 8N, Oliver Cletrac
I had a problem with my 8N oil pressure. When it was hot outside and I worked the tractor hard the pressure dropped right off. I switched to 20w50 motorcycle oil and I haven't had a problem with it since.
I recently took the engine down to put new rings in it and all the bearing surfaces, crank, and cam look like new so it must like the 20w50 oil just fine.
I recently took the engine down to put new rings in it and all the bearing surfaces, crank, and cam look like new so it must like the 20w50 oil just fine.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
was the block where the cam rides wore? without custom machined inserts, it is essentially non renewable, and a significant source of oil pressure loss.. oil pump wear is too.
