8N Headlights
- Thread starter Mopar92
- Start date
- Views: 14272
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
fahget the relay...
Ya need a headlamp switch and some 14awg wire and some but connectors.
wire power from the same side of the ammeter that the alternator is hooke dto.. this way the lamps use power correctly in your net charge/discharge system ( ammeter shows discharge with lamps on and ignition off ).
Wire power from there with wire and ring terminal to lamp switch ( fused kind ).. then from there to 1 lamp.. then piggyback to the other lamp. I like running a ground wire fromt he lamp mount base to a good place ont he tractor.. like the alternator hinge.. so the lamps have something other than 50yr old rusty sheetmetal for ground.
all there is to it.
if the lamp is something like a 4419 it will be 55w.. @12v each lamp will consume 4.58 amps of current.. thus 2 will use 9.1a
a 10A SB.. or 15a FA is the fuse I'd use.
If you have 35w lamps, then they each consume 2.91a.. thus 5.83 for 2 of them.. use a 10A FA fuse.. etc.
Soundguy
Ya need a headlamp switch and some 14awg wire and some but connectors.
wire power from the same side of the ammeter that the alternator is hooke dto.. this way the lamps use power correctly in your net charge/discharge system ( ammeter shows discharge with lamps on and ignition off ).
Wire power from there with wire and ring terminal to lamp switch ( fused kind ).. then from there to 1 lamp.. then piggyback to the other lamp. I like running a ground wire fromt he lamp mount base to a good place ont he tractor.. like the alternator hinge.. so the lamps have something other than 50yr old rusty sheetmetal for ground.
all there is to it.
if the lamp is something like a 4419 it will be 55w.. @12v each lamp will consume 4.58 amps of current.. thus 2 will use 9.1a
a 10A SB.. or 15a FA is the fuse I'd use.
If you have 35w lamps, then they each consume 2.91a.. thus 5.83 for 2 of them.. use a 10A FA fuse.. etc.
Soundguy
I am now doubting they are 12 volt lamps. Can somebody tell me how to tell? If they are 6 volt, they will burn up immediately right? Also, how was the original tractor switched? Meaning the headlights? I can't seem to find an original looking light switch... thanks
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Look on the lamp.. it should have a number...
12v lamps glow dim and orangy yellow on 6v...
6v lamps burn out on 12v with a nice crisp 'pop'..
lamps were a dealer installed optional item.. they use a headlamp switch and built in fuse holder if I remember correctly...
Soundguy
12v lamps glow dim and orangy yellow on 6v...
6v lamps burn out on 12v with a nice crisp 'pop'..
lamps were a dealer installed optional item.. they use a headlamp switch and built in fuse holder if I remember correctly...
Soundguy
I found a nice and new headlight switch with internal fuse on ebay for this tractor for like $12. I'm gonna try it... Thanks.
FORD tractor 8N Golden Jubilee NAA fused light switch - (eBay item 250179776304 end time Dec-23-07 07:50:09 PST)
FORD tractor 8N Golden Jubilee NAA fused light switch - (eBay item 250179776304 end time Dec-23-07 07:50:09 PST)
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
That will work.. or a 5$ universal one for the auto store would work as well.
Soundguy
Soundguy
Thanks.... I did see some at the parts store but they did not have a built in fuse. Thats not to say that no parts places have them, just my local did not and I ordered a bunch of parts from this guy so no shipping. Thanks for your help on this... Keith
OK... 2 questions
I got 14g wire today and connectors. I have an ammeter in the tractor, but it is not hooked up. How do I hook it up? Now that you know it's not working, how would you hook up the wires? From the key switch?
2nd question.... I want to put a master kill switch on the battery. I have a nice master switch from TSC. I have these on all my old Muscle cars hidden and they work great for that pesky battery drain over the winter and between monthly use. I guess I should put this on the negative side? Is the tractor still negative ground even with the delco 12v conversion? I did not do the conversion, so I have no idea about it. Thanks guys. You've all been a great help. Keith
I got 14g wire today and connectors. I have an ammeter in the tractor, but it is not hooked up. How do I hook it up? Now that you know it's not working, how would you hook up the wires? From the key switch?
2nd question.... I want to put a master kill switch on the battery. I have a nice master switch from TSC. I have these on all my old Muscle cars hidden and they work great for that pesky battery drain over the winter and between monthly use. I guess I should put this on the negative side? Is the tractor still negative ground even with the delco 12v conversion? I did not do the conversion, so I have no idea about it. Thanks guys. You've all been a great help. Keith
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Master kill switch? ok... but put it inline with (+) on a 12v negative ground system. It's never a good idea to break the ground path except in full isolation switches and a few other 'exception' times.
Easy n wire diagram for 12v alternator.
big wire from back of alternator to 1 post on the ammeter, other post of the ammeter to the battery hot ( can be solenoid connection.. whatever).
Wire ALL loads (except starter ) to that side of the ammeter common with the alternator. That means the wire feeding your yey switch, and lamps come from that 1 stud where the alternator is hooked up. if amp meter reads bakwards.. swap sides.
this gives you a net charge / discharge setup. key on, engine off, points closed or lamps on = discharge deflection on the ammeter... engine running = positive deflection / charging the battery, shown on the ammeter.
N's have just about the easiest wire diagram I have ever seen save for a maggie fired WD or JD with crank start and no lamps.... etc..
soundugy
Easy n wire diagram for 12v alternator.
big wire from back of alternator to 1 post on the ammeter, other post of the ammeter to the battery hot ( can be solenoid connection.. whatever).
Wire ALL loads (except starter ) to that side of the ammeter common with the alternator. That means the wire feeding your yey switch, and lamps come from that 1 stud where the alternator is hooked up. if amp meter reads bakwards.. swap sides.
this gives you a net charge / discharge setup. key on, engine off, points closed or lamps on = discharge deflection on the ammeter... engine running = positive deflection / charging the battery, shown on the ammeter.
N's have just about the easiest wire diagram I have ever seen save for a maggie fired WD or JD with crank start and no lamps.... etc..
soundugy
Mopar92 said:
