8N leaking fluids
- Thread starter Mopar92
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simonmeridew
Silver Member
a couple of thoughts about the leaks:
1--please get the I & T manual for the N tractors. If it helps you with one step it will help you with twenty steps.
2--splitting the tractor is no problem. very straightforward and nothing hidden. You need a couple of jack stands to hold the engine and tranny once they're apart. If you have a bright idea and decide to pull the starter, loosen but don't pull out of the starter the two long(7 inch) screws that hold the starter on; otherwise the brushes can slip past the commutator if the starter separates with a sickening "click", and they're a rascal to get back in
3. Speaking of rascals, those axle leaks can be pesky. I ended up getting some of the thick permatex compound and made my own gaskets; otherwise I couldn't get the leaks to stop. That red colored Permatex stuff did the trick. When you pull the axle, the big nut on the outboard end is really torqued on: like 350 foot-pounds or so. And often the threads are buggered up under the nut because they're exposed and in the dirt.. Not to worry though, you can get a 2 piece repair nut system that really works to replace this big nut; the kit thing squeezes down on the axle regardless of the condition of the threads and will stay put.
4. When you have the trumpet off, it's a good time to check and replace the drawbar pins that are only accessible from the inside of the trumpet. These are very hard alloy metal and very strong, but over the years they get worn and hogged out, and you can start to get leaks around where they come out of the trumpets.
5. While the trumpets off check for metal chips and chunks in the bottom of the differential chamber.
simonmeridew
1--please get the I & T manual for the N tractors. If it helps you with one step it will help you with twenty steps.
2--splitting the tractor is no problem. very straightforward and nothing hidden. You need a couple of jack stands to hold the engine and tranny once they're apart. If you have a bright idea and decide to pull the starter, loosen but don't pull out of the starter the two long(7 inch) screws that hold the starter on; otherwise the brushes can slip past the commutator if the starter separates with a sickening "click", and they're a rascal to get back in
3. Speaking of rascals, those axle leaks can be pesky. I ended up getting some of the thick permatex compound and made my own gaskets; otherwise I couldn't get the leaks to stop. That red colored Permatex stuff did the trick. When you pull the axle, the big nut on the outboard end is really torqued on: like 350 foot-pounds or so. And often the threads are buggered up under the nut because they're exposed and in the dirt.. Not to worry though, you can get a 2 piece repair nut system that really works to replace this big nut; the kit thing squeezes down on the axle regardless of the condition of the threads and will stay put.
4. When you have the trumpet off, it's a good time to check and replace the drawbar pins that are only accessible from the inside of the trumpet. These are very hard alloy metal and very strong, but over the years they get worn and hogged out, and you can start to get leaks around where they come out of the trumpets.
5. While the trumpets off check for metal chips and chunks in the bottom of the differential chamber.
simonmeridew
I did in fact already order the manual.... thanks though. It should be at the house when I get home this week. Also, why would I need to take off the big nut on the end of the axle? I was going to do what SoundGuy said.... just pull it all off... Thanks.
xlr82v2
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Messages
- 703
- Location
- Southwestern Illinois
- Tractor
- 2007 Mahindra 3525, 1952 Ford 8N
Do you even have to remove the trumpet to repair the seal?
Mine on the left side is seeping a bit, but not enough to warrant tearing it down (yet...).
Mine on the left side is seeping a bit, but not enough to warrant tearing it down (yet...).
