still having problems with our 8n. wont stay running. totally at a lost. put new fuel in, points, condensor,rotor,coil,plugs,wires,battery,voltage regulator,............still dies after running it awhile. battery keeps draining and cant figure that out either. can we pull the wires on the left side off the connectors hook them together and not worry bout hookin them back to tractor frame??
8n problems still!
- Thread starter huntnfarm
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LD1
Epic Contributor
Boy that looks like a mess of wiring.
I can't picture exactly where that is at on the 8n but it doesn't look anything like ours. I don't think we have any terminals or wires that actually hook to the frame/ground on a stud like that.
If something is draining your battery, that is probabally why it won't stay running. I am not sure but with a lot of newer equipment/autos, they just don't run right or have a hot enough spark without a good battery.
I'd start with whatever is draining your battery. If you have a good meter, get a diagram, and have a little patience.
I don't mean to insult you either, but you do know that it is a positive ground right??
Also, have you done a 12v conversion or is this still a 6v system???
Another suggestion of mine would be to replace the wiring harness. I think they are only like $20. Since almost all the other electrical components have been replaced, why Not?? and that way you know you have good ends crimped on and good solid connections.
redneckford
Platinum Member
i would diconect everything and run a wire form the coil straigt to the battery and see how long it will run u might have to put in a resistor but i would change it over to 12 v if not already and rewire it before doing to much
webbeewood
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- 1947 Ford 8N
You might try checking the wire running to the coil, and make sure it's not touching the copper oil line running to the govenor. It could be arcing through after it gets warmed up.
lilranch2001
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I agree, first thing to do is to replace an old harness, they are cheap and easy to do.
If it is the original harness, I am sure all the insulation is leaking, crackerd or missing
oldmech
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Hi! If you have 6 volts with generator. You must polarize the generator to battery from regulator. If not (Generator dont charge the battery) .Good luck! Oldmech
DaveOmak
Platinum Member
This may help.
I don't know if your wiring is original, but this may be a place to start.
Oldmech has a good point. I have not had experience with gens that don't charge, but I have read about gens needing polarization to get them to charge. Electricity and Dave don't communicate too well. It's all fuzzy to me.
Good luck, Dave
I don't know if your wiring is original, but this may be a place to start.
Oldmech has a good point. I have not had experience with gens that don't charge, but I have read about gens needing polarization to get them to charge. Electricity and Dave don't communicate too well. It's all fuzzy to me.
Good luck, Dave
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simonmeridew
Silver Member
make sure you don't have the hot wire to the coil that's leaning on the exhaust manifold, it might be grounding out and shutting down the engine. That can be frustrating because the shorted side of the wire is down and out of sight. Don't ask me how i know
simonmeridew
simonmeridew
Soundguy
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that 'stud' is insulated.. and not to ground.. and I agree. I'd get a new wire harness.. it's cheap and will get rid of that birds nest.
I see you still have the inductive ammeter.
is it operational?
a drain after turning off , if high.. like 10a or so is usually a stuck cutout.
if low.. like 3-5 could be ignition.
After that shotgun parts change out you are back to square one for troubleshooting.
never.. ever repalce the voltage regulator when checking a run/stall issue.
the vreg doesn't have any direct effect on the ignition.... you can dyke it out and toss it into the trash and run for a long time on a hot battery alone.
the polerization procedure for the oem 6v gen is to jump armature to battery for a second.
that appears to be a side mount 8n.. thus no resistor needed for the 6v round coil and a 6v battery / charge syste,.
oem it was positive ground.
post back
soundguy
I see you still have the inductive ammeter.
is it operational?
a drain after turning off , if high.. like 10a or so is usually a stuck cutout.
if low.. like 3-5 could be ignition.
After that shotgun parts change out you are back to square one for troubleshooting.
never.. ever repalce the voltage regulator when checking a run/stall issue.
the vreg doesn't have any direct effect on the ignition.... you can dyke it out and toss it into the trash and run for a long time on a hot battery alone.
the polerization procedure for the oem 6v gen is to jump armature to battery for a second.
that appears to be a side mount 8n.. thus no resistor needed for the 6v round coil and a 6v battery / charge syste,.
oem it was positive ground.
post back
soundguy
yup positive ground. dad cleaned all that crap off and everything else that had crap all gunked up on it. started up and ran...............only ran it for hour or so and no problems yet. we have always had to jump this tractor from when bought it normally. once in awhile it would start on its own but not very often. think a battery tender would be good for it? ill see about getting the harness. thanks again for all your guys help and one of these days well get it figured out:thumbsup:
