970 Case

[Teaspoon]

Kim,
There was no surge like you described in previous posts but quite the opposite. When the clutch was pushed the tractor would pull down as if were under a load. This tractor is a white cab model. I did check the lift comparison and everything looked ok. As far as the brakes, I could put the tractor in 3rd gear and in the 3rd PS range and push both brakes as far as I could and it would still pull through the brakes in an idle. Wish you were closer to have been with me....lol!

 

[Teaspoon]

I guess since the 970 isn't going to work out I'm going to keep looking. I'm not a "brand" man. Just looking for a good hay, bush hog, hay feeding tractor. I would like to at least have some that is 55hp at the pto and if it doesn't have a cab I'd like to have a canopy. For any of y'all that have hay operations our cow calf operations, what size and kind of tractors have treated you well?

 

[KWentling]

I'm guessing the lack of the surge is a cable adjustment problem, as in the cable isn't pushing the valve in completely. Did the range (1-4) shift OK or did the gears clash? The brakes are self adjusting, if the mechanisms are not seized up. They may just be out of adjustment, or could be worn out. If the park wasn't adjusted up tight at some point and it got run with the park brake on they may be worn completely out. This is probably a tractor that could be fixed up without a lot of time or expense. I wish I could have been there too!

Kim

 

[Teaspoon]

Man, you definately know more about these tractors than I could dream of. The 1-4 gears would grind some. The PS worked great.

 

[KWentling]

That's what I thought. If the inching valve isn't pushed in far enough the gears will still be turning some, thus the gear grinding. I believe a new clutch spring and cable adjustment would fix the tranny issues.

Kim

 

[Teaspoon]

Think maybe I've counted it out too soon? I know one big expense right off the start and that's a new rear tire. A New Firestone radial 18.4 x 34 here is $1800. That's what the other side has on it.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

The OEM tires on our 1976 MF 265 side walls are made up of about 26 flaps on each side due to dry rot. Five years later they are still doing fine. Actually the flaps (where rubber has separated from casing) are a plus since they stick out more when the air pressure gets low.

The tire dealer talked me out of buying new ones because these 36 year old tires are much harder than new ones so bush hogging is not as likely to give us a flat tire.

 

[KWentling]

I'm in the same boat, but mine's just a bias ply. It's a COOP tire with a gash in the sidewall. Still holding but for how long? It's full of calcium chloride too. Both are pretty weathered.

As for the tractor, maybe. I'd feel bad If you bought it on my recommendation and it turned into a money pit. I sure wouldn't give him $6000 for it. Question is, are you up to doing some fixing? There's risk in buying any used tractor, especially one that old. There would be less risk with buying a standard transmission tractor. The power shift is nice for loader work.

Kim

 

[Teaspoon]

That's kind of what I was thinking. Now if I could get it for $3500 it may be worth getting and putting some $ into. But at $6000 I'm not interested enough to get it and putting money into it. I'm really wanting something that I can start working and not working on!

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I agree on a lower price.is buying.

Would a 5000 or 8000 series Ford work?

 

[Teaspoon]

Yeah. A 8000 is a little bigger than I'd like but for the right price I'd consider one. I would love to have a 7700 that is in good shape with air.

 

[Teaspoon]

I'm actually looking at a Case IH 685 with a new Bush Hog loader, bucket, and spear. I also have found a Ford 7610 with a cab. Does anyone have input on either one of these?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Teaspoon all of these old tractors last a long time working hard.

Due to their age and unknown service/repair history no one can really offer any helpful input I expect. My approach to old iron is if the engine, transmission and lift system are functional I will give them a shot. Functional does not mean in new like condition but will they start run do the required job then stop.

Why good steering and brakes are required a working AC would be optional. I have found it makes more sense to by newer stuff if I want working bells and whistles. Replacing starters, alternators, radiators, water pumps, lift pumps are expected repairs but not injector pumps, heads, etc.

My brother did rebuild his big old Case IH engine and the parts was about $2500 I think but after that he could not get off the starter before it was running. His rings were broken up. He did not pull the crank but had a guy mic it still installed and it was OK.

 

[Teaspoon]

I understand nobody can offer input on these particular tractors but I mean these tractors as a whole. In other words, what's people's experience with them? I agree that a working AC would be a plus but since I'm gonna be the one to buy it I'm going to get what I want while I'm buying!

 

[gerbt1]

I have a 970 Case and I,m thinking of putting a rear mount snowblower on it. You mentioned not running the pto while power shift is in reverse when stationary. What about running the pto while driving in reverse like you would have to to blow snow? Would it still have the damaging effect?

Thanks
Todd