A few questions to start my front aux project.

[jcims]

Hi Folks,

The grapple has been sitting idle long enough. I'm starting to plan my front aux setup (for Bobcat CT-235 with 7TL/Bobtach loader) and had a few quick questions. I tend to overthink things at times, apologies if any of this is just weird.

Right now i'm thinking electric over hydraulic setup, basically like a DIY WR Long kit.

- Left vs Right - Lines for loader cylinders go down right loader arm and valves are on the right side. Is there any reason why i shouldn't use the left loader arm for my new lines, and the area near the left loader mast (?) for the control valve(s)? The left side is the easiest to get on and off the tractor, so i would likely install the disconnects up front on that side regardless. The only reason i ask is that i rarely see it.

- One vs Two - This is a 35hp tractor with 7gpm pump, is there any good reason to come out of the gate with two spools? Seems it would be cheaper to get a single valve body than adding a second one later, i just don't know if i would ever use it.

- Steel vs Rubber - I'm thinking about doing steel lines along the loader arm with a length of rubber at the valve side of course. Question is if i should leave a little bit of rubber at the front to provide some play for the quick connects, or if i should just run steel all the way to the fittings (which will be skid steer style), either way there would be some kind of bulkhead at the end of the steel line to take any stresses. I would have mid-state here in Ohio fab the lines (mshose.com)

I think that's it. In the interim i think i'm going to buy some rubber hose and wire ties to extend my rear aux up front. I may end up just being happy with that and scrapping the whole plan, lol.

Thanks for any input.

 

[kennyd]

Right now i'm thinking electric over hydraulic setup, basically like a DIY WR Long kit.

- Left vs Right - Lines for loader cylinders go down right loader arm and valves are on the right side. Is there any reason why i shouldn't use the left loader arm for my new lines, and the area near the left loader mast (?) for the control valve(s)? The left side is the easiest to get on and off the tractor, so i would likely install the disconnects up front on that side regardless. The only reason i ask is that i rarely see it.

I would follow the existing lines. I wouldn't want couplers on boths side of the tractor.

- One vs Two - This is a 35hp tractor with 7gpm pump, is there any good reason to come out of the gate with two spools? Seems it would be cheaper to get a single valve body than adding a second one later, i just don't know if i would ever use it.

There is no reason to have two remotes on a FEL. Save your money.

- Steel vs Rubber - I'm thinking about doing steel lines along the loader arm with a length of rubber at the valve side of course. Question is if i should leave a little bit of rubber at the front to provide some play for the quick connects, or if i should just run steel all the way to the fittings (which will be skid steer style), either way there would be some kind of bulkhead at the end of the steel line to take any stresses. I would have mid-state here in Ohio fab the lines (mshose.com)

Just use 1/4" rubber lines to keep it simple. The more complicated you make it-the longer it will take to get it done.

 

[dfkrug]

Right now i'm thinking electric over hydraulic setup, basically like a DIY WR Long kit.

You are correct to plan carefully for this project. The Long valve is large
and there are a lot of hoses to route. It is going to get very busy on
those FEL boom arms.

There is nothing wrong with doing your lines in steel or rubber hoses,
though the latter is easier.

I agree with Kenny that it is unlikely you will ever use a 2nd spool up
front, so a one-spooler is good enough.

As for QD fittings, you may not need any at all if you are not going to
take the grapple off the bkt. I elected to use QDs, one on each side
of the FEL boom, but I was trying to minimize the number of exposed
hyd hoses for my 4n1 bkt.

(BTW, your implement pump does 8.3GPM at 2611psi.)

 

[jgrreed]

Just my thoughts, slightly different.....

Hi Folks,

The grapple has been sitting idle long enough. I'm starting to plan my front aux setup (for Bobcat CT-235 with 7TL/Bobtach loader) and had a few quick questions. I tend to overthink things at times, apologies if any of this is just weird.

Not weird at all. Hydraulics are very intimidating at first.

Right now i'm thinking electric over hydraulic setup, basically like a DIY WR Long kit.

That's an OK choice (JMO), and a good choice if you mean the non-diverter type. Fasse has nice choices for one circuit. I can guide you on how to order a grip and rocker switches from Otto if you'd like. They're a lot cheaper than you might think.

ottoexcellence.com

You'll need valves too if you build your own kit. You have to decide if you want proportional (ie featherable) vs solenoid (on/off/on) HINT - go with solenoid - you need a graduate degree in something to make a proportional system go. I think surplus is pretty good for valves.

- Left vs Right - Lines for loader cylinders go down right loader arm and valves are on the right side. Is there any reason why i shouldn't use the left loader arm for my new lines, and the area near the left loader mast (?) for the control valve(s)? The left side is the easiest to get on and off the tractor, so i would likely install the disconnects up front on that side regardless. The only reason i ask is that i rarely see it.

I'm putting mine in the same location as the existing factory manifold.

- One vs Two - This is a 35hp tractor with 7gpm pump, is there any good reason to come out of the gate with two spools? Seems it would be cheaper to get a single valve body than adding a second one later, i just don't know if i would ever use it.

I'm putting a 2 place manifold on, but plugging the one side without a valve. I agree with Ken and DF that you'll likely never need a second, but I have dreams of a hydro powered weed wacker, and possibly a loader mounted snow blower. I'd need the second if I do the blower project, as it'll have rotation and deflection control.

- Steel vs Rubber - I'm thinking about doing steel lines along the loader arm with a length of rubber at the valve side of course. Question is if i should leave a little bit of rubber at the front to provide some play for the quick connects, or if i should just run steel all the way to the fittings (which will be skid steer style), either way there would be some kind of bulkhead at the end of the steel line to take any stresses. I would have mid-state here in Ohio fab the lines (mshose.com)

No opinion. I think there's a slight loss in power due to the 'stretch' of the rubber, but it can't be much. JD makes a bolt-on hard line kit, so I went with that.

I think that's it. In the interim i think i'm going to buy some rubber hose and wire ties to extend my rear aux up front. I may end up just being happy with that and scrapping the whole plan, lol.

Yessir, you may. A front Aux project isn't cheap.

Thanks for any input.

'welcome.

 

[texbaylea]

Just a comment: I have two circuits at the front of the FEL because I have a tree shear with shear function plus rotation for better alignment. I know that most tractor users wont go this way but it does happen. I have factory remotes so the setup is cleaner.

Vernon

 

[jcims]

Whoa! Thanks for all of the input folks, this is why it's hard to keep from asking questions on the site, because there's a lot of good experience here.

I think I've decided single circuit unless i can find a sweet deal on a two spool setup (and even then i would probably just plumb one until i had an application for line 2). Definitely going solenoid vs. proportional, kennyd helped me out with that decision in a thread i hijacked a month or so ago.

I had never heard of Fasse, but their catalog looks good and i talked to a rep briefly about the different products, thanks for the heads up there.

Regarding location, seems like the consensus is to place it with the rest of the hydraulics (which makes perfect sense). Fortunately I don't need to make a decision there until after i get the valve and can test fit it. It just seems like there isn't a lot of room, and some of those valves look kind of big.

Electrical is going to be the next thing. I want to add some lights as well, so i think i'm going to invest in a fuse/relay box to house everything in one place.

Thanks again. I hope to document the whole thing so that others have a recipe for whatever level of success i achieve.

 

[dfkrug]

Regarding location, seems like the consensus is to place it with the rest of the hydraulics (which makes perfect sense). Fortunately I don't need to make a decision there until after i get the valve and can test fit it. It just seems like there isn't a lot of room, and some of those valves look kind of big.

Electrical is going to be the next thing. I want to add some lights as well, so i think i'm going to invest in a fuse/relay box to house everything in one place.

There are a lot of ways to do what you want, and certainly more than one
correct way. I see no TBN consensus on where to put a new valve. Using
your rear AUX valve as you do now, or another manual spool valve up
front are also legitimate solutions.

Since you have already decided on part of the solution (a solenoid-operated
spool valve to divert flow from an FEL pair of work ports), and the valve
you want (the one WRLong uses), you have just a few more decisions.

Your choice of a valve already will limit where you can install it, rather than
buying a valve to fit the location you want.

You need to decide on momentary or non-momentary electric control. Some
folks like a push button on their FEL joystick, for example.

For electrical, I suggest you use the fused AUX "customer use" circuit
that is switched with your starter key. You do not need relays for the
solenoids, but you should use them for the work lights. Diodes on the
switches are advisable, too. There is room for relays under the left side
of the instument cowl....I put 2 in there.

If you do go with a solenoid valve for your grapple, then definitely post
some pix of your install. Good luck.

 

[jgrreed]

If your budget allows it, I'd strongly recommend the Grote LED's. They have a low draw (1.4amp per lamp I think), thus not needing to worry about alternator draw, and you don't need relays. I used 2 factory JD switches and 2 lamps front and 2 lamps rear, no relays. Works great.

-Jer.