A long but very interesting read

[BGL990]

I just came across something called the "motor oil bible". It's a long (170ish pages) document describing everything you ever wanted to know about motor oil - what all the acronyms mean, how oil is produced, what the additives do and how, the mechanisms of oil breakdown, why it IS legit to extend oil change intervals with synthetics, etc, etc. I'm only on page 75, but I think I can almost keep up with Mike's (gsxr1100) posts now /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

The person that wrote it obviously has a strong bias toward synthetics, but with good reason IMHO. If you aren't a believer in synthetics after reading this, then you'll never be convinced /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Go here and scroll down near the bottom. Look for a blue <font color="blue">MOTOR OIL</font> link.

There is quite a bit of stuff at the beginning about joining something or other, so you need to skip down a few pages to the start of the real document.

 

[Moon]

Good find! I haven't read it all, but in scanning it I found reference to the four ball wear test that has been mentioned in this forum quite often. Here is a quote from the article on NOACK and The Four Ball Wear Test:
"In my opinion, the NOACK and Four Ball Wear Test listed above, in addtion to the HT/HS test, are the most important specifications you will find to inidcate the relative stability and protection benefits of any given oil."

Chalk one up for GSXR1100!

Moon of Ohio

 

[SkyPup]

That to start with, and then the nitration & oxidation results will tell you how long your oil has left to work.

NOACK is ultra important too and when using a primo Group IV full synthetic, you will notice that you never have to top up the crankcase, even after 100 hours of operation since the oil hadly evaporates, your dipstick always remains the same. That is the visual sign of a super high quality oil.

 

[gsxr1100]

sky- I agree. If you like more make-up oil, your Noack Volatility will be high. A good oil will be low.

I have seen some oils as low as 5.5% and some other oils are above 15%!

I know I add ZERO oil to my yearly BX oil changes. In my last oil change on my Lexus, I added about 20 ounces for its 12K+ oil interval since I had to change a filter and top off.

If you go down about 80% on the PDF file on "bible" you will see some good REF #'s. Not the most current, but good ref.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> but I think I can almost keep up with Mike's (gsxr1100) posts now </font>

I found it to be very informative as well, once one pages down about ten pages like you said!

What little I read so far seems like it is based in fact...great info for the oil-knowledge challenged like me... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Thanks for the pointer! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SkyPup]

The old dino Shell Rotella 15W-40 (an old diesel standard) is about 15% volatility..... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

That is simply awful, but almost all dino oils are 12% and above. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Better to have less than 8%.

 

[gsxr1100]

Yea, I think the updated Shell is around 12.XX. Not bad just need more oil.

 

[SkyPup]

Bottom line take home message is, it is virtually impossible to achieve good NOACK rating below 8 or so with inferior basestocks! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

so simple, so true!

 

[Dargo]

SkyPup, c'mon, you mean to tell me that my next door neighbor with a Powerstroke is not correct when he constantly tells everyone that Rotella is the best oil ever made!? /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Somehow he found a "Rotella" sticker and put it in his window! He is ready to fight if you even hint that there is a better oil for his Powerstroke. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif