GreatWhitehunter
Veteran Member
Most GN hitches are adjustable so unless you've got a lift kit or something I wouldn't worry about it.
Matt
Matt
A ubiquitous 'which trailer for me' thread: tilt deck over.
- Thread starter mojoinco
- Start date
- Views: 17109
Well, thought I ought to complete my journey on this issue (well, at least close out this thread).
Bought a PJ T8, 22' tilt, 4' fixed deck, 102" wide. 2010.
Picked it up in Oklahoma, drove it back to an overnight in Kansas. Figured I would get the tires balanced, as they would throw me around on certain roads at particular speeds. Kind of fun in a 'yeehaw' way, but not really the experience one wishes to have with a new trailer on 2 lane highways. Oh -- and a huge trailer (well, relative to my old 16' low boy bumper pull).
Jacked up the first tire at a Firestone dealer. Spun it. Not exactly the Wheel of Fortune. More Misfortune. Scene this before: egg shaped with a rolling bulge across the tire. Could even see down through the valley of the damned to the shiny steel belt. The other 3 were going there, but not as bad, and not split. Bummer, "4 to go please". A bit over $500 later and I was 'on the road again' home.
I have yet to not find a corner that is not worth clipping. Including an absentee ballot box on my way out of a local PD after getting a VIN verification (out of state vehicle). Ordering new mirrors soon. The 'bifocal kind' with a large upper section for normal viewing and a large lower parabolic section. Too easy to loose this thing in the current mirrors.
I installed a Cody hitch. Other than a failure to re-read a section, the only pain was cutting a heat shield (not hard, I have a pneumatic cut off tool) and raising the bed (fortunately, it wasn't too rusty). I just went to HD and got a stack of 3/4" washers (galvanized I think). I wrapped the ones that go under bed supports (but no bolts) with packing tape first. I also had to change a nut out (from a large washer base to something a bit smaller). Easy to flip, though the hooks are different. Should work fine, see no reason it will not last a long time. FWIW, I got the no-drill side plates.
Got home and replaced the tilt battery. The built in charger is of the cheap trickle type. I need to get either a solar system or a battery maintainer type charger.
It has a winch, but I want to relocate the solenoid box into the tool/hydraulic pump box for better weathering. Just need 3 cables. The junction box is missing its top. I ordered a replacement online (whole box). Funny, the standard hitch cable is long enough, but only has 6 conductors. If ever there was a trailer that back up lights would help, this is it. Will be looking for a couple of fog type LEDs to mount on the corners of the goose neck to back up with. On other trailers I installed incandescent type lights. They were easy to overdue, current wise, and blow truck fuses. The LEDs should be no challenge that way. Back up lights are a real saver . I might even put one in the tool box (a roll of them is real cheap, just wire a fuse and a switch in).
One option I will likely do is weld a strap on either side underneath. That requires outriggers (angled steel struts -- usually angle iron -- that run from the frame rails to the outside area of the bed frame). I like the tie down options and it makes it easy to not use the rub rail or stake pockets (I do like the stake pocket drop in tie points though). One other thing I want is to add a tool box for tie down equipment. The battery/pump box is nice and large, but occupied with electrical stuff and things.
Bought a PJ T8, 22' tilt, 4' fixed deck, 102" wide. 2010.
Picked it up in Oklahoma, drove it back to an overnight in Kansas. Figured I would get the tires balanced, as they would throw me around on certain roads at particular speeds. Kind of fun in a 'yeehaw' way, but not really the experience one wishes to have with a new trailer on 2 lane highways. Oh -- and a huge trailer (well, relative to my old 16' low boy bumper pull).
Jacked up the first tire at a Firestone dealer. Spun it. Not exactly the Wheel of Fortune. More Misfortune. Scene this before: egg shaped with a rolling bulge across the tire. Could even see down through the valley of the damned to the shiny steel belt. The other 3 were going there, but not as bad, and not split. Bummer, "4 to go please". A bit over $500 later and I was 'on the road again' home.
I have yet to not find a corner that is not worth clipping. Including an absentee ballot box on my way out of a local PD after getting a VIN verification (out of state vehicle). Ordering new mirrors soon. The 'bifocal kind' with a large upper section for normal viewing and a large lower parabolic section. Too easy to loose this thing in the current mirrors.
I installed a Cody hitch. Other than a failure to re-read a section, the only pain was cutting a heat shield (not hard, I have a pneumatic cut off tool) and raising the bed (fortunately, it wasn't too rusty). I just went to HD and got a stack of 3/4" washers (galvanized I think). I wrapped the ones that go under bed supports (but no bolts) with packing tape first. I also had to change a nut out (from a large washer base to something a bit smaller). Easy to flip, though the hooks are different. Should work fine, see no reason it will not last a long time. FWIW, I got the no-drill side plates.
Got home and replaced the tilt battery. The built in charger is of the cheap trickle type. I need to get either a solar system or a battery maintainer type charger.
It has a winch, but I want to relocate the solenoid box into the tool/hydraulic pump box for better weathering. Just need 3 cables. The junction box is missing its top. I ordered a replacement online (whole box). Funny, the standard hitch cable is long enough, but only has 6 conductors. If ever there was a trailer that back up lights would help, this is it. Will be looking for a couple of fog type LEDs to mount on the corners of the goose neck to back up with. On other trailers I installed incandescent type lights. They were easy to overdue, current wise, and blow truck fuses. The LEDs should be no challenge that way. Back up lights are a real saver . I might even put one in the tool box (a roll of them is real cheap, just wire a fuse and a switch in).
One option I will likely do is weld a strap on either side underneath. That requires outriggers (angled steel struts -- usually angle iron -- that run from the frame rails to the outside area of the bed frame). I like the tie down options and it makes it easy to not use the rub rail or stake pockets (I do like the stake pocket drop in tie points though). One other thing I want is to add a tool box for tie down equipment. The battery/pump box is nice and large, but occupied with electrical stuff and things.
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
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- Daleville, IN
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- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
6 years on tires. They were do.
Chris
Chris
rutwad
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
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- Massey Ferguson 5465, Kubota M5040, Farmall H (2), Minneapolis Moline R, Case 530CK, Cat 416C
If you are referring to the overall neck being 6"s higher on some trailers, it's not necessary for a 4x4. It does offer more clearance which may be needed if you lift your truck.
QRTRHRS
Elite Member
Ideally, you want the trailer to be somewhat level with your typical load but you do what you need to do to have good clearance so you don't crunch your bed.
Learn to "button hook" your tight turns. Ie; stay in your lane then as you approach the turn, pull to your left then to the right as you go into your turn. Just going into a center or passing lane ahead of time opens up room for someone to pass you on your right regardless of any turn signal. Button hooking keeps the tail of the trailer somewhat blocking the chance of someone passing. You also want to keep the your truck in your own lane as you ease into that right turn. Sometimes you have to take your shot and button hook into the opposing lane. Find a quiet lot and practice a bit.
Plan ahead so you don't have to jack the trailer so hard that you roll those new tires right off the rims when you pull into a lot of some kind.
Learn to "button hook" your tight turns. Ie; stay in your lane then as you approach the turn, pull to your left then to the right as you go into your turn. Just going into a center or passing lane ahead of time opens up room for someone to pass you on your right regardless of any turn signal. Button hooking keeps the tail of the trailer somewhat blocking the chance of someone passing. You also want to keep the your truck in your own lane as you ease into that right turn. Sometimes you have to take your shot and button hook into the opposing lane. Find a quiet lot and practice a bit.
Plan ahead so you don't have to jack the trailer so hard that you roll those new tires right off the rims when you pull into a lot of some kind.
powerscol
Veteran Member
Most of the trailer manufactures will de-rate a unit for you. I did that with my PJ 16K deck over unit. Its still a 16 K trailer, just a different vin sticker listing it at 14K. Talk to them when you order. I also recommend PJ and their big fold down ramps. I have a 20+3 dove tail GN. Why - I had to load a rake on a guys tilt bed deck over PJ the other day and it was a pain to try and back up the steep ramp, secure the load, then unhook to get off so he could lower the tilt. It was a blessing that it had hydraulic up and down.
OOPS on edit I failed to see you found something - sorry
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