Acclimating and installing western red cedar clapboards

[BillBee]

Currently I am preparing the structure in preparation of installing western red cedar clapboard as exterior siding at the weekend place. I was planning on keeping the clapboards natural and sealed with Sikkens Cetol SRD Sikkens: Simply Beautiful Woodcare Products For Your Wood Home

Clapboard here in the northeast runs from eighty-eight cents to a dollar ten a board/linear foot. I need 5810 linear feet, that’s with windows and doors deducted.

With that said, I don’t know the answers to the following questions, so I thought I would throw them out there in hopes of finding answers:

1. How long should I allow for the western red cedar clapboard to acclimate to the climate and should it be done outdoors and covered or indoors?

2. Should I use 4d or 6d stainless steel ring shank nails?

3. Does anyone have any experience with Sikkens Cetol SRD?

The house is 2x6 exterior plywood construction. Any advise/suggestions/experience on the above questions will be greatly appreciated, as I am doing all work Myself and fighting my way through this construction, which is so far so good, but it’s been tough going with two years into it.

Thanks,

 

[shvl73]

I would use 6d nails through the sheathing into the studs, installed rough face out. I would buy them from a place that keeps them under cover, away from the weather, as they are usually kiln dried. Pre-stain them or ideally, purchase them with at least a one coat pre-stain done by a machine coat facility. Having them pre-stained is something that will seem expensive initially but, compare the finished quality with your time and material cost, you might be suprised.

 

[Nat]

I don't know if you realy need to acclimate it like you do hardwood flooring. The main thing is to be sure it is dry, now wet when installing it.
A hardwood floor needs to be acclimated to the humidity of the area where it will be installed to minimize shrinkage in the width, cracks will appear and the poping and cracking will drive you nuts, where-as the WR Cedar will be air dried, unless bought green. If bought green it will need to be air dried or kiln-dried before installing it. Cedar will shrink a good bit and if installed horizonzlly it can split or if not lapped enough it will show the sheathing under it. I built a new house in 1978 and only lapped the siding 3/4 " and it was green at the time. It shrunk so much it split some of the boards and pulled out from under the lap so bad it had to be resided. The current house has verticule WR Cedar board and batton siding and it was dry when I installed it. I havn't had any problem with shrinkage and I have 1" of lap.
I would also nail it with 6d ring shank stainless nails. Galvinized has some kind of chemical reaction to Cedar and causes some staining around some of the nail heads. I don't know enough about that to give any advise, but someone on here can. Here is a pic of the current house, built in 2006, that has WR Cedar siding. HTH, Later, Nat

 

[BillBee]

Thanks for the responses and advise. I had thought and it is suggested on WRCLA website http://www.wrcla.org/pdf/WRCLA_Installing_Siding.pdf to use 6d stainless steel nails. But recently speaking to a person that is contractor by trade, he advised using 4d nails, which I second-guess myself. WRCLA web site states the nail is to penetrate the stud by 1 1/4 inch, so that’s what I’ll do, now with the confirmation.

Shvl73, I’ll be using kiln dried and believe it or not, box store Homey Depot is cheaper than Lavalleys by 15 cent a LF, which equates to a +/- $1000 savings. I’ll be purchasing out of Lebenon NH for the no sales tax advantage and doing the short haul to my VT place.

Nat, I think your right. I guess I don’t have to acclimate the clapboards, as they will be kiln dried, I was just unsure and don’t what to make a costly mistake. I’ll be using 6 inch clapboards and will be sure to follow the recommended over lap (thanks for the tip). Nice looking place you have, I remember following some of your post when constructing.

Thanks again for the responses.

 

[shvl73]

Shvl73, I’ll be using kiln dried and believe it or not, box store Homey Depot is cheaper than Lavalleys by 15 cent a LF, which equates to a +/- $1000 savings. I’ll be purchasing out of Lebenon NH for the no sales tax advantage and doing the short haul to my VT place.

Be sure to check the quality and the lengths. There are some really good mills and some not so good. Are these CVG or A (or some with mixed B). There are differences in cost when buying 3'-7', 3'-12' or 3'-20's. Also some yards will buy 6'-20'. A higher percentage of shorts will be less costly. A lower quality mill can mix in more shorts than a better mill. I would be suspicious of a cheaper cost from a box store, I find it difficult to believe they buy from the best quality mills. I am still a proponent of a machine coat, which will coat all sides, lending some additional stability to the clapboard, more so with paint but, a good idea with stain.

 

[inveresk]

Also store the material flat and keep it covered and out of the sun until it's fixed otherwise you increase the risk of cupping.

 

[BillBee]

Be sure to check the quality and the lengths. There are some really good mills and some not so good. Are these CVG or A (or some with mixed B). There are differences in cost when buying 3'-7', 3'-12' or 3'-20's. Also some yards will buy 6'-20'.

I don’t know if they’re CVG or A, I’ll be sure to look into it, thanks for the heads-up. Homey Depot prices do vary with length, Lavalley’s was a fixed price of a buck ten a LF/BF. If there’s difference in quality, I’ll definitely go with the more expensive. I’m using translucent Sikkens Cetol SRD on the claps and will be applying to all sides and cuts as manufactured recommend prior to installing. Sikkend Cetol is supposedly superior to any other translucent oil base at $31 a gallon.

Inveresk, good point. I think I’ll store the cedar indoors, in the garage underneath, with a vapor barrier over the concrete slab sitting on wood slats. I’ll apply the translucent indoors, set for drying and install.

Currently I’m preparing the structure, i.e, window, door, corner board trim, flashing, cantilever decks, etc, and it’s my intention to begin clapboarding August, with anticipated completion date of November. The gable-end peaks are a scary 28 feet above ground level. The cantilever decks are on the second and third level and I’ll be completing them as I go up, which will provide working platforms.

Again, thanks for the responses and helpful tips and if there are any other suggestions, please chime in.

 

[B8FISH]

In case you haven't asked yet--make sure that you aren't getting finger jointed boards to get the longer lengths (one way that HD gets cheaper materials). Also check on the butt edge thickness, that can vary as well. Agree that the 6D SS is the way to go with the nails (installing with a coil nailer??). I like to make a little L shaped piece with the reveal I want for the claps, makes the installation go pretty quickly, and eliminates having to mark and measure each board. They used to make (and I have a pair) of clapboard installation devices that would hold up the clap at a pre-determined reveal. LMK if you want any pics.

 

[Diesel-ME]

In case you haven't asked yet--make sure that you aren't getting finger jointed boards to get the longer lengths (one way that HD gets cheaper materials). Also check on the butt edge thickness, that can vary as well. Agree that the 6D SS is the way to go with the nails (installing with a coil nailer??).

Good point on the finger joints. That product is an OK way to save $$ but only if you are going to machine prime and pre-stain with a solid stain or paint. I have used this stuff along with factory primed FJ trim boards and it looks goond with two coats of solid stain or paint.

Two years ago I did a house with fiber cement (love it) and last year a house with finger jointed cedar - it will be interesting to see, over the years, how they both hold up and compare.

6D SS - with or w/o rings are fine IMO. Just mark your studs and fire most nails into a stud.

~paul

 

[shvl73]

CVG will resist cupping much more than Aye grade. You may notice a small amount of flat grain with CVG, just make sure its minimal. There is a certain small percent allowed off-grade and low-end mills will push the limits of the grade. Sikkens is good stuff, I think you'll be happy with it.