AD / DC TOMBSTONE = ME HAPPY

[crash325]

I know that I'm way behind the curve, no Mig, Tig or Plasma. Were I going to spend some big $ it would be a gas or diesel welder.

This guy was a whole $75. It's newer (I think) than my old AC only. Seems to made cheaper, thinner sheet metal, flat cord instead of fat round 1. Don't much care for the rod holder, but its tight and works.

Had to change the weird plug to a standard so it would fit my extension. Don't know what the factory plug is suppose to fit. Do You??

For the time being this guy will get the job done. But a new learning curve is in the works. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.

Have figured out what most of the rod listed on the machine is. Suggestions on good rod for this guy greatly appreciated. Tried stinger positive, then Neg. Neg. seems the best with 3/32 6013 (old rod that has been damp.) at 75 amps.

Only welding problem's is mostly operator error. Some bridging - 2 good welds with a gap in the middle. Too long an arc, I think???

I think I want to stock up on 6011 & 7014. A little 7018 when I get hot box built. Maybe all I need, What do you think??

 

[Shield Arc]

seems the best with 3/32 6013 (old rod that has been damp.) at 75 amps.

Only welding problem's is mostly operator error. Some bridging - 2 good welds with a gap in the middle. Too long an arc, I think???

Put more angle into it. Lay the rod over maybe as much as 30-degrees.

 

[jake98]

Maybe all I need, What do you think??

Those are great. I used an ac only, on and off for years, the dc feels and looks so much better. Good deal! :thumbsup:
(I actually thought I knew how to weld for a while when I got my ac/dc tombstone..)

 

[JB4310]

I know that I'm way behind the curve, no Mig, Tig or Plasma. Were I going to spend some big $ it would be a gas or diesel welder.

This guy was a whole $75. It's newer (I think) than my old AC only. Seems to made cheaper, thinner sheet metal, flat cord instead of fat round 1. Don't much care for the rod holder, but its tight and works.

Had to change the weird plug to a standard so it would fit my extension. Don't know what the factory plug is suppose to fit. Do You??

For the time being this guy will get the job done. But a new learning curve is in the works. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.

Have figured out what most of the rod listed on the machine is. Suggestions on good rod for this guy greatly appreciated. Tried stinger positive, then Neg. Neg. seems the best with 3/32 6013 (old rod that has been damp.) at 75 amps.

Only welding problem's is mostly operator error. Some bridging - 2 good welds with a gap in the middle. Too long an arc, I think???

I think I want to stock up on 6011 & 7014. A little 7018 when I get hot box built. Maybe all I need, What do you think??

You will use electrode positive (dc reverse) 95% of the time.
7018 is all you need, but don't stock up to much due to it's finicky storage issues. The 6010- 6011 is supposed to be good for general fab work, but I hardly ever need anything other than the 7018, now that I have DC myself.
In fact even when on paper, another rod is supposed to be called for, I end up going back to the 7018.

JB

 

[k0ua]

You will use electrode positive (dc reverse) 95% of the time.
7018 is all you need, but don't stock up to much due to it's finicky storage issues. The 6010- 6011 is supposed to be good for general fab work, but I hardly ever need anything other than the 7018, now that I have DC myself.
In fact even when on paper, another rod is supposed to be called for, I end up going back to the 7018.

JB

Agreed, I use 7018 for most things now, except dirty metal then 6011 and for deep penetration in a root pass. Of course if you can clean the metal then clean the metal, everything is better with clean metal. You can use 6013 for sheet metal, low penetration. but unless it is really light I still grab a 3/32 7018.. I am learning to TIG for light thin work anyway, and you can now get a TIG torch and argon cylinder/regulator and start down that road too now with your DC capability. On the 7018 the only frustration is the "corn" that forms on the end after you break the arc. so Restrikes are a pain to get started.. what I do (if it is reasonably cool) is just break it off with my gloved thumb. but a rough file can be kept handy to remove this end of the rod "corn" so a restrike of the used rod can be done easily. It beats pecking around like a chicken to break it off . Other than that and the storage issues, 7018 is great rod, and you have got to love the way the welds look, low spatter etc.

James K0UA

 

[two_bit_score]

crash325, one thing I know fir sure is that YOU will put that box to good use! Always enjoy the pictures you post of what you are doing!

 

[wdchyd]

I agree with JB and Koua, 7018 in different sizes is mostly all you'll need......DC rev...:thumbsup:

 

[rankrank1]

I know that I'm way behind the curve, no Mig, Tig or Plasma. This guy was a whole $75. It's newer (I think) than my old AC only... I think I want to stock up on 6011 & 7014. A little 7018 when I get hot box built. Maybe all I need, What do you think??

Had an AC only version for years and used 3 rod types. You know what now that I have an AC/DC buzzbox I still use the exact same 3 rods primarily.
a) 6011 for dirty metal and deep pentration is a must have rod (6011 is also good for improvised cutting very cheaply with the welder and this rod still works even if rod gets wet/damp. There is actually such a thing as getting 6011 too dry as the flux type requires some mositure to work properly).
b) 7014 is also a nice rod - idiot rod that almost welds itself.
c) 6013 I use sometimes but not a lot although it would be handy for you since no mig for thin stuff.
d) 7018 I do not fool with because I only weld mild steel and do not want the rod oven storage issues with it or restart issues of it. Now if I am going to welding some exotic steel then I will use it.

DC is a little easier to use as compared to AC but not really a night and day difference just a bit smoother.
a) (DC Electrode positive and ground negative) is what you will use 95% of time and this results in max pentration. (tip sorta think of it as 67% heat into the rod and 33% heat into workpiece).
b) (DC Electrode negative and ground positive) is what you might use on really thin metal to help prevent burn through. (tip sorta think of it as putting 33% heat into rod and 67% heat into the workpiece).
c) AC settings there is no such thing as polarity as polarity is switching back and forth at 60 hertz. (tip sorta think of it as putting 50% heat into rod and 50% heat into workpiece).

You got a bargain price on your welder and you will find that it can be more than a welder alone and truly a mult-faceted tool in a backyard shop.
a) Improvised metal cutter with 6011. The manipulation technique is even covered in Lincoln manuals. The cuts will not be plasma quality but they do work in a backyard shop.
b) Wanna heat metal for bending or loosen rusted nuts? Wanna braze or silver solder without the high cost of acetylene gas? Then build or buy yourself a Twin Carbon Arc torch for that welder. You can do all these for the mere cost of electricity.

I also have a mig welder and it does excel at welding thin steel, but that is it. The bozzbox will do so much more than weld alone although it does not shine on the really thin metal. That said, If I had only known then what I know now then I would have never purchased the mig welder. Have $800 or more tied up in the 1 trick pony mig welder plus mig consumbles do add up over time (liners, tips, etc). Like you I very little invested in my buzzbox arc welder and it will do so much more.

 

[deereman75]

Agreed, I use 7018 for most things now, except dirty metal then 6011 and for deep penetration in a root pass. Of course if you can clean the metal then clean the metal, everything is better with clean metal. You can use 6013 for sheet metal, low penetration. but unless it is really light I still grab a 3/32 7018.. I am learning to TIG for light thin work anyway, and you can now get a TIG torch and argon cylinder/regulator and start down that road too now with your DC capability. On the 7018 the only frustration is the "corn" that forms on the end after you break the arc. so Restrikes are a pain to get started.. what I do (if it is reasonably cool) is just break it off with my gloved thumb. but a rough file can be kept handy to remove this end of the rod "corn" so a restrike of the used rod can be done easily. It beats pecking around like a chicken to break it off . Other than that and the storage issues, 7018 is great rod, and you have got to love the way the welds look, low spatter etc.

James K0UA

What I do to deal with the 7018 restarts is when I breat the arc, I pull it away, and crack it like a whip. When you do that, a big ball of slag flys off, and then it will restart like it is frest out of the box. Learned that on weldingtipsandtricks, works well for me. If I forget to do that, I normally just tap it on the floor to break the corn off.

 

[crash325]

Put more angle into it. Lay the rod over maybe as much as 30-degrees.

Thanks. Think you nailed it. Had strip held down with clamps, as I got close to the clamps the rod had to be stood up more.

Thanks Again
Jim