Snowblower Adapting 836GS SB to NH 1320, need bracket mount points.

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Adapting 836GS SB to NH 1320, need bracket mount points.

The almost new 836GS snowblower arrived and had some fun moving it around
with my "Beetleboom" repurpose of a trailer hitch for '70s VW, but that's another story. *
My current dilemma is fitting the subframe to a NH 1320 frame. *I've mounted the front quick hitch *bracket to the front bumper but I'm unsure at this point if the height is correct as this will undoubtedly affect blower angle of attack.
A front bracket mounting hole height from the ground on a Boomer series (1030 I believe) would be appreciated, but can probably determine once I hang the quick hitch and check the foot angles.

The bolt-on rear frame brackets (long "T" pin receivers) are formed to fit a frame
15 plus inches wide. *The frame (1320) is a little more than 10 inches wide,
so I've surrendered to fabing 2 custom cut 3/8" flat *plates, with shouldered bushings (for the "T" pin) held in place with shaft locking collars. The link tube is only 9" wide so, *no bending required.

Where to mount my custom brackets *to the frame is my next concern.
I'm eyeing the four(x2 L&R) M16 bolts that are spaced approximately*
1-1/2"H X 4-1/4"W. *They appear to be factory installed, and after removing
one, I see the holes are threaded completely, so they must be for mounting
things. *They appear on what looks like a flat boss that is directly above the
steering tie rod, both sides. *I was all over the online parts illustrations and didn't*
see them used or referenced anywhere so I would like some confirmation that my plan to use them is good. *

Also, the blower came with the hydraulic chute rotation, and naturally the foot lift ram on the quick connect. *The tractor isn't equipped with any remote
controls as (I suspect) it has lived life so far with a rear mount SB at a federal penitentiary.
The salesman at a dealer said to have controls *installed would be $1-1.5K. *Since it has a cab, the NH supplied would require cutting access holes in it to run the solid tubing up to the helm, so I'm leaning towards hoses through the foot pad
beside the brake pedals. *They may all go through the pedal hole, but I'm not there yet.
If someone could chime in on suitable *after market dual spool control valves, that would be great. *I've been trying to self learn hydraulics from reading the TBN threads*but still can't say if the 1320 HST is open or closed centre. I'm leaning toward open, and I'm guessing here that the 'power beyond' referred to on the diverter*manifold hookup info should be a dead give-a-way. *Is it?
Another guess here is a FEL control suitable to the 1320 would do the job*for the SB. *Any hints, tips, guidance, are all welcome, but for right now, BRACKETs

Oh, BTW, if you want to see it, gurgle (click images) 1320 new holland.*
There's 3 of 'm, 2 obvious, 3rd not so much. *Be interesting to know
if anyone can pick out the 3rd. *
I was trying to figure out how upload to TBN from this i doit pad, but abandoned
trying when I saw them on the net already. **
Thanks all*
** * * * * * * * * *

 

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Beetleboom pics here.

 

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Getting deeper along in getting this ready. Ordered all the hydraulics from princess auto.
The MB-20 looked right. I figure the two (lift cyl, and hyd motor are so flow restricted
Pretty much anything will work. I'm a little confused by the terse instructions for the PB adapter.
Is it obvious where it goes? Guess I'll be on the hunt for a number eight 90 ORB to 3/8 pipe.
Thought of the that one after I closed the order.
BM20 2-Spool Directional Control Valve | Princess Auto

And I'm also perplexed that I'm not getting help one my fitting
This blower to a machine it wasn't built for. Somebody on TBN must own a Boomer 1030
that could tell me what the height on the bumper holes. Lower edge or guess the center,
Amyone

 

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Mounted subframe to set foot (when level) at 2.5 inches. The 4 Bolts (2 on each side) for the rear subframe brackets
are the 4 rear most engine mount bolts. I'm now on the hunt for four 55mm to replace the 45mm. The drive line extension on the
subframe is the next phase. I have decided to use the last 8 inches of a stainless propeller shaft from a 5 litre race hydroplane.
A pair of chain/sprocket hubs (1" ,1.5") utilizing a 15Tx1"x3" spline coupler in the bigger hub. The prop shat stub will
be keyed to the smaller hub. I'm going to ask my machinist friend to set the coupler up with a shear pin.

 

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The driveline is complete, and running. A final loctite of the set screws and the chain bolts.
Using three chain segments (3 links each) bolted to the the hubs with six 5/16" bolts, locks
and flats. The chain I used is 423 lbs rated, so I'm confident that the three will together will
hold the 540 in/lbs torque available at full load. In working out what I need for strength noticed
Good designs for fail on couplers is 1.7-1.8 x torque load to handle shock loads. I hope that
It stays together when the going gets tough, but if it doesn't then I'll reassess what the load was
when it failed and determine if chain should be a higher proof or did I overload it with too
big a bite. As long as it all comes apart if ever something gives up and jams up front.
I don't ever want to have to do mid PTO shaft (or worse) replacement of anything in the transmission/diff. Pics to follow.

Bonus discovery today was the institute had bolted a stop on the HST gear range select so that
"H" was not available and never knew I had it because the decal end was scrapped off.
The operator manual showed up yesterday (finally) and I was model searching why I only had
"L" and "M". Machinist buddy spotted the bolt, and it was even had welded on nuts for tamper proofing.
The trip home was in 5 mins instead of 10 plus.