Add gate to existing barbed wire fence.

[datanull]

I plan to add a 16' gate to an existing barbed fence. I plan to put in H posts then somehow attach the wire to the new posts without loosing the "stretch".

Besides not cutting the wire before I have it tied to the new post, what should I do?

I have a couple of crappy come-alongs to help stretch the wire but what is a good way to 'get a hold of' the wire where I don not have access to the end. Are there wire grabs or some such that I might get at the Farmers Assoc.

How can I keep the existing wire away from my hands while digging holes as close as possible? Maybe I could use the sheet of half inch plywood that I have lying around?

This assumes I can dig the post holes. It's getting dry around these parts.

 

[green duck]

The way I have always done it is, just dig your holes while the wire is still tight. Then drop in your new posts, staple the wire to both the H posts and then cut the wire.

It's easier said than done, digging a hole right next to a stretched wire, but it beats the heck out of having to restretch the wire.

 

[RBD]

I agree with the previous post about the sequence of holes, posts, tack, cut. It works.

However, I wonder about the use of "H" posts. I see them all the time, but an engineer friend of mine has said "triangles are good" "squares are bad" for strength, support, stress. What is the supposed benefit of an "H" configuration of posts at the gate, as opposed to a triangle, with top of diagonal beam at top of gate post and base of next post in fence?

 

[CATMAN]

Stretching fence is easy with the right tools. My Dad and I would never set "Corner and Brace posts" with the barbed wire in the way and tight. What a hassle. I will try and link the fence stretcher we use.Dutton-Lainson Company - Since 1886 We use "N" pattern for our braces, then add #9 wire to make an X pattern(between the two posts). Then you twist the #9 wire until it is taut. This is also how the Professional fence builders do it in Iowa, where my Dad lives. In addition to all this, they also twist in those small orange augers near the corner post and tie #9 wire to them and twist that wire until taut also. This prevents possible "frost heave" over the winter. Dad has also started doing this the last ten years or so.

 

[datanull]

However, I wonder about the use of "H" posts. I see them all the time, but an engineer friend of mine has said "triangles are good" "squares are bad" for strength, support, stress.

I think you are right. I too see the H and think |X| or as the other posted suggested N. With N the tension has to be oriented correctly with respect to the pull.

I also see the post cemented in and that seems like a waste of effort. With the proper use of #9 wire to tighten and pull everything together, I see no need for cement.

I plan to use my tractor to haul me and my tools but I don稚 have a PHD.

 

[datanull]

I will try and link the fence stretcher we use.Dutton-Lainson Company - Since 1886

Thanks for the link that looks like just the tool I need. It appears to be able to grab the wire sort of like I was thinking I would need to do.

I'm still going to try and dig and set the post with the wire in the way, because if I cut the wire the fence falls down. I can seen no other choice other than some elaborate temporary corners.

 

[weldingisfun]

You can get the fence stretcher at TSC as well. Could save the S&H costs.
Barbed Wire Stretcher - 3600312 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[jenkinsph]

I prefer the N or X cross braces, an advantage of the X method is in softer soils where the tendency is to pull the post upwards it is cancelled out.
The H method while better than nothing is structurally incorrect.

If you can get a couple of pieces of old hose to split you can put this over the wire where you are digging the holes to protect you from the barbs. I use to cut them about 2 or 3 ft long and slip them over the wire.

Proper tools and technique make barb wire fenceing go alot faster with less grief.


Steve

 

[CATMAN]

Thanks for the link that looks like just the tool I need. It appears to be able to grab the wire sort of like I was thinking I would need to do.

I'm still going to try and dig and set the post with the wire in the way, because if I cut the wire the fence falls down. I can seen no other choice other than some elaborate temporary corners.

I will add that the fence stretcher, that I linked, can have one end "hooked" to/around the corner post and the racheting jaw is attached to the wire and is pulled tight. The reason for that 3rd jaw, behind the racheting jaw, is to hold the wire taut while you move the racheting jaw back towards it to get another bit on the wire and pull some more. Honestly, we rarely use the 3rd jaw, because usually you can use your bodyweight and strenght to hook the wire into the racheting jaws to the point where the wire will be tight before you run out of rachet teeth on your "first pull" sequence.

 

[datanull]

It is done. I was worried about the ground being hard because it has not rained here since May when it "rained every day". I forgot about the rocks. Rock bar and manual PHD my arm hurts.

I used the "H" arrangement with 6" post with at 4" horizontal plus an X of 9gauge wire to pull everything together.

It`s still standing, and didn`t lose the stretch.

When I bought my place 3 years ago I thought "those lazy Arkies using trees for line posts". Well let me tell ya you dig a few holes in these rocks and you be looking for every tree on the place.

I`ve been off work from my paying job this past week and got to spend every day at the "hobby farm". I`ve had lots of fun: working hard, working with my new tractor and looking at the "view".

Thank for all the tips.