Adding a case drain to skid steer

[GaryBDavis]

According to this training material I found it shows a case drain on the main pumps. It doesn't show where it goes but you should be able to follow it. See page 51. ISZ
http://faculty.riohondo.edu/jfrala/BC CAT BOOK/SERV1833_TXTCskidsteer.pdf

I've seen that publication. I need to raise the cab and compare that pump to mine. That may be the high flow version. Either way, why would the put case drain ports on the pump and not hook anything to them? Maybe it's a pump model that can be used in several different applications so those ports are not used for this application. Also, are they case drains that are meant to be hooked to a tank? If so, they may not allow flow back to the tank but are meant for the pump to drain to the tank.

Not being sure, it would be safer to drain directly back to the hydraulic tank.

 

[IceStationZebra]

What I meant was that you could follow that line back to see where it drains to. Almost all piston pumps have a case drain to handle the oil that slips past the moving parts. As I recall the pumps shown in the picture are the travel pumps (and it looks like they share a drain). It is certainly possible to put a return in the plastic tank, but if one already exists you wouldnt have to risk getting particles in the system or leaking. ISZ

 

[rkass]

Finally made the move to a skid steer for brush work around the farm and I need to run a shredder with it. This will be one of those mulching type shredders used to clear underbrush. The newer ones use a piston pump that requires a case drain even though it's a standard flow unit (~20GPM).

My skid steer is a 2011 CAT 279C and just has the standard flow hydraulics with no case drain. The high flow version of this machine comes with a case drain coupler. My plan is to get the case drain coupler and steel line from CAT and then plumb it directly to the tank. I don't want to hack into the factory hydraulic lines. I'll modify my coupler bracket on the loader arm to hold the case drain coupler.

My remaining issue is how to put a fitting on the plastic hydraulic tank. My current thought is to use one of those grommet type hose barbs. You drill a 1/2" hole in the tank, insert the grommet and press in the steel fitting that has a 1/4" right angle hose barb on it. It uses a compression effect to make a leak proof seal (the barb inserted into the grommet has an flared end). These are for fuel tanks so it will handle the hydraulic oil. My only concern is how to drill the hole into the tank. I'm not sure how to keep the plastic shavings out of the oil tank. I know most folks would probably just drill it and not worry about it. There's probably a strainer at the pump intake that will catch any pieces. The pump probably wouldn't bat an eye at a small plastic shaving anyway.

Looking for thoughts/recommendations of anyone who might have done something like this already.

Thanks,
Gary

Hey Gary,

How did this end up working out? I'm needing to do the same thing. How did you attach the barbed fitting to the hydraulic line? Any pictures or information would be really appreciated!