Adding hydraulics to grader blade

[jbwrangler]

I purchased the blade in the pic (TuflineGB4-84) over the weekend. It appears to be a great blade, but I would like to add hydraulic tilt and offset. The offset is pretty simple, just remove the ratchet and add a cylinder. But, the tilt may be a little more complicated (or I am just not seeing it). Where would I need to weld brackets so the blade will tilt, but I can still keep the manual angle adjustment?

Thanks

 

[J_J]

Would not a hyd top link let you tilt?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Keep in mind that to get maximum offset and just use the mounts that are there, you will only be offsetting to one side or the other. That is why there is a set of mounts on each side.

You can get a shorter hydraulic, but then you will only get 50% or less offset of what is intended.

As far as the tilt, I think that it is going to be difficult to make brackets that will work and not mess up the manual tilt setup. I would go with a tilt cylinder for your 3pt hitch, then you have the hydraulic tilt capability with all of your implements.

Just my :2cents:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Would not a hyd top link let you tilt?

A top link gets him front-back adjustment. I think he is wanting side-side tilt. :confused3:

 

[ovrszd]

A top link gets him front-back adjustment. I think he is wanting side-side tilt. :confused3:

A top link will give him some tilt if the moldboard is angled. It won't be very much but would do some. I think that's what JJ was thinking and he's right.

 

[J_J]

Yes, lets make sure he is talking about vertical tilt or horizontal tilt.

Should be able to do both.

 

[jbwrangler]

Yes, lets make sure he is talking about vertical tilt or horizontal tilt.

Should be able to do both.

I am talking about horizontal tilt, like to cut a ditch. MtnViewRanch is correct that a tilt cylinder for the 3pt (one of the bottom links, not the top link) would accomplish the same thing and may be more versatile.

My tractor (2000 model JD 5105 45hp) has two rear remotes. It has a 553 loader that is connected to those rear remotes currently. (The tractor was my dad's and he added the loader later and did not want to pop for mid hydraulics because he didn't do much loader work). Could I add diverters to the rear remotes to allow top and tilt to function?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am talking about horizontal tilt, like to cut a ditch. MtnViewRanch is correct that a tilt cylinder for the 3pt (one of the bottom links, not the top link) would accomplish the same thing and may be more versatile.

My tractor (2000 model JD 5105 45hp) has two rear remotes. It has a 553 loader that is connected to those rear remotes currently. (The tractor was my dad's and he added the loader later and did not want to pop for mid hydraulics because he didn't do much loader work). Could I add diverters to the rear remotes to allow top and tilt to function?

You can, easy to do, just costs a few dollars. Well, maybe more than a few.

 

[CalG]

I've just spent the last three days repairing wash out damage to the private road to our neighborhood.

I also have a tuff-line blade, though not the same one pictured. What I found was the draw bar link adjustment was sufficient to restore and maintain the road way crown and establish the ditch, but that the blade tilt was needed to cut the ditch on the first place. It had to do with the tractor attitude due to real ground conditions. A little tilt to the tractor makes a big difference!

A "tip" cylinder on the 3ph link would satisfy a great many applications for tipping the blade. Perhaps 90% on mostly level grounds. But the larger blade tip by holes and pin will still be needed for many situations.
You still would have the "tilt" link control to fine tune the blade angle. This sounds like an easy (no brainer) decision to add the 3ph tilt cylinder for fine adjustment.

A "topping" link ? I can't see any use, EXCEPT for the very fine adjustment possibilities such an addition offers. Fighting the response time of the depth and resistance 3ph hydraulics while moving with a load in the blade often left a ripple behind or worse. A second pass then became necessary. Fine and positive blade height control would be welcome. Perhaps, in my case faster engine and pump speed would have been advised. I tend to run at low revs ;-)

Power Offset would be nice if one needs to work "omnidirectional", but I found most situations were met with timing my passes. That is, out and down, or back and up? I would not care to loose half the travel, but providing for a cylinder to be swapped side to side like the ratchet mechanism would not be difficult.

The blade angle power would often have been nice on many occaisions. It much of depends on where you want the spoil row to end up. The off set feature does "sort of" apply an angle when imployed, but it is always the same direction. That is, moving material more towards the direction opposite the offset.

Add features if you are using the attachment frequently . (or if you are operating from a cab where mounting and dismounting is laborsome.)

Me, I'm pleased with the results with simple features,... and proficiency comes with practice. Human capability is amazing!