Adding Model 75 Loader to John Deere 1050

[ToddRN]

I have a 1984 John Deere 1050. This is my first tractor so I am in a learning curve to say the least. I have purchased a model 75 loader to add to it. I want to use a 2 spool aftermarket control valve. My tractor did not come with any hydraulics other than the factory ones for the rear lift. I have replaced all of the short hoses on the loader and will replace the long ones that connect to the control valve once I get everything installed and can measure how long they need to be. The person that I bought the loader from has worked on tractors for years. He says that the simplest/easiest way to connect the control valve to the tractor is to cut the high pressure line, connect the line coming from the pump to the input to the valve, come out of the valve back to the high pressure to complete the circuit back to the rear lift. I have been told that they make an adapter that you can connect the input and output lines on the control valve too where you disconnect the high pressure line from the pump, connect the adapter to the pump and then connect the high pressure line to the adapter. I haven't been able to find one or even a picture of one. I will add photos so everyone can see what my tractor hydraulics look like. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap doing this but I am trying to be frugal.

 

[bmaverick]

I have a 1984 John Deere 1050. This is my first tractor so I am in a learning curve to say the least. I have purchased a model 75 loader to add to it. I want to use a 2 spool aftermarket control valve. My tractor did not come with any hydraulics other than the factory ones for the rear lift. I have replaced all of the short hoses on the loader and will replace the long ones that connect to the control valve once I get everything installed and can measure how long they need to be. The person that I bought the loader from has worked on tractors for years. He says that the simplest/easiest way to connect the control valve to the tractor is to cut the high pressure line, connect the line coming from the pump to the input to the valve, come out of the valve back to the high pressure to complete the circuit back to the rear lift. I have been told that they make an adapter that you can connect the input and output lines on the control valve too where you disconnect the high pressure line from the pump, connect the adapter to the pump and then connect the high pressure line to the adapter. I haven't been able to find one or even a picture of one. I will add photos so everyone can see what my tractor hydraulics look like. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap doing this but I am trying to be frugal.

You really need the TM1192 850/950/1050 service manual to route the hydraulics. There are certain items in the manual to pay attention to. If you need the manual, we have it on the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group.

Your JD150 is really a Yanmar YM4300 in JD green paint. Built in the same factory in Japan too.

 

[bmaverick]

I have a 1984 John Deere 1050. This is my first tractor so I am in a learning curve to say the least. I have purchased a model 75 loader to add to it. I want to use a 2 spool aftermarket control valve. My tractor did not come with any hydraulics other than the factory ones for the rear lift. I have replaced all of the short hoses on the loader and will replace the long ones that connect to the control valve once I get everything installed and can measure how long they need to be. The person that I bought the loader from has worked on tractors for years. He says that the simplest/easiest way to connect the control valve to the tractor is to cut the high pressure line, connect the line coming from the pump to the input to the valve, come out of the valve back to the high pressure to complete the circuit back to the rear lift. I have been told that they make an adapter that you can connect the input and output lines on the control valve too where you disconnect the high pressure line from the pump, connect the adapter to the pump and then connect the high pressure line to the adapter. I haven't been able to find one or even a picture of one. I will add photos so everyone can see what my tractor hydraulics look like. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. I'm not trying to be cheap doing this but I am trying to be frugal.

There are both early and late models for these 3 machines too. This will impact how the hydraulics are routed.

I had put together this easy section for your tractor.

There is a person selling a flow control valve on eBay. Or you can make it yourself for our Yanmar/Deere compacts. The issue is, Deere has dropped support for these machines after the 2020 parts supply chain problems. Don't worry, the Yanmar aftermarket parts network has been around for 35+ years.

 

[ToddRN]

There are both early and late models for these 3 machines too. This will impact how the hydraulics are routed.

I had put together this easy section for your tractor.

There is a person selling a flow control valve on eBay. Or you can make it yourself for our Yanmar/Deere compacts. The issue is, Deere has dropped support for these machines after the 2020 parts supply chain problems. Don't worry, the Yanmar aftermarket parts network has been around for 35+ years.
View attachment 785517

View attachment 785518

I'm just going to be honest. I have no clue what these are or where they go on a tractor.

 

[ToddRN]

You really need the TM1192 850/950/1050 service manual to route the hydraulics. There are certain items in the manual to pay attention to. If you need the manual, we have it on the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group.

Your JD150 is really a Yanmar YM4300 in JD green paint. Built in the same factory in Japan too.
View attachment 785512

Any chance you could post a link to the service manual in the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group? Thanks

 

[Harry in Ky]

It doesn't really matter what they are. If you follow the advice you mentioned in your first post, you won't need them. Just make sure you source a power beyond type loader valve and order the matching power beyond sleeve with it. The rest is just nuts and bolts, hoses and fittings.

I can't see anything steering related in your photos, so I'm guessing the tractor doesn't have power steering?

 

[ToddRN]

It doesn't really matter what they are. If you follow the advice you mentioned in your first post, you won't need them. Just make sure you source a power beyond type loader valve and order the matching power beyond sleeve with it. The rest is just nuts and bolts, hoses and fittings.

I can't see anything steering related in your photos, so I'm guessing the tractor doesn't have power steering?

No power steering.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Then all you need is the right valve, fittings, hardware, and some fabricating. It's not all that complicated.

 

[ToddRN]

It doesn't really matter what they are. If you follow the advice you mentioned in your first post, you won't need them. Just make sure you source a power beyond type loader valve and order the matching power beyond sleeve with it. The rest is just nuts and bolts, hoses and fittings.

I can't see anything steering related in your photos, so I'm guessing the tractor doesn't have power steer

Then all you need is the right valve, fittings, hardware, and some fabricating. It's not all that complicated.

Thanks. I trust the advice I was given but was just looking for confirmation. Also I thought power beyond was for the rear of the tractor to run a backhoe or log splitter, etc.

 

[rScotty]

You are on the right track. The configuration you are explaining is fine. It sounds to me like you basically understand it. I will try to help be frugal, but make sure that when you get the two spool control valve that you buy one that has the Power Beyond Port - and be sure to pay the extra twenty bucks or so to get the power beyond adapter for that port.... sometimes it is a plug and sometimes it is a sleeve that goes inside.

So your two spool control valve will have 7 ports: Power in, Return, Power Beyond, and 4 cylinder ports.

You will power the three point from the power beyond port, and the return port must connect back to the transmission sump with minimum back pressure. It doesn't need to be a pressure line.

If I were buying that control valve, I'd probably look first online to see if you can get it from Surplus.com hydraulic division. I'd look for a name brand, probably Prince or similar. I'd get one with a detent on at least one of the spools, and match the gallons/minute to the 1050. Tractor Data says the JD1050 hydraulic pump puts out 7.5 gallons/minute (max) so a two spool valve in the 7.5 to 12 gpm would be perfect.

Check to see which type of hydraulic fittings you have on your cylinder hoses - you can usually get a control valve with that thread.

Don't worry about the flow dividers. Get the other stuff done first. We won't have enough info for that conversation until we know if you have power steering and if so what type it is and how it is plumbed in.

BTW, I think that JD 1050 is a fine tractor. I remember it being on my wish list back when they first came out. Congrats.
rScotty