Adding rear hydraulics

[Matthew_H]

Well we finally got a little bit of snow here in southern Minnesota. Probably could have just driven through it this morning, but I went out and cleared it with the tractor.
The tractor is a 3203 with loader. I mainly used my Frontier RB2072 angled to clear the gravel drive. Really wish I had gotten some gauge wheels made for the blade, but maybe for next year. After getting on and off the tractor and removing my gloves to pull the pins, angle the blade and reinsert the pins, multiple times, I now wish I had at least purchased the 3320 with rear hydraulics and a blade with hyraulic angle capabilities.
Hence my question, can rear hydraulics be added to a 3203? I would like to keep the loader hooked up because I use it for snow removal also, but I don't use the loader and blade simultaneously.
I figure adding an hydraulic cylinder to the blade shouldn't be too much trouble, just have to keep the tilt in mind.
I've never done hydraulic, or metal work for that matter, so simpler explainations and descriptions are much appreciated.

Thank you, Matt

 

[PBinWA]

It would probably be easier to put gauge wheels on the blade and let it float along the contour of the driveway. Gauge wheels and some extra weight on the blade would be my vote.

I plow our Asphalt road with a heavy Howse rear blade - I set it to float and swivel freely and then just let the weight of the blade do the rest. If the road was gravel I'd just add some gauge wheels.

 

[Matthew_H]

Maybe I'm not understanding you, but when I talk about angling the blade I'm talking about the blade direction left or right, to control which side the snow is pushed to, not the tilt, up or down, of the blade. I could see allowing the tilt to rotate freely, but I want to control which side the snow is pushed to. I have to make more than two passes to clear the full width of my driveway and I have a large open turn around area, so I need to adjust the angle of the blade, left or right, multiple times.

Thanks

 

[kennyd]

Matthew,
Not sure on the 3203, but most of JD's mid-framed CUT's already have the "valve", you just have to buy the rear remote kit that comes with the handle to operate the valve, the hard tubing from the valve to the rear of the tractor, and the brackets and QD's (quick disconnect couplers). The price is about $250 to $300ish.

You should call your dealer, or maybe TBN member "BleedGreen" or "Dutch" will respond, they are both JD salesmen.

 

[Matthew_H]

Yes, if I had just read the FAQ before posting I would have seen that it probably isn't too much of an issue. The 3rd Rear SCV Kit isn't listed as an option for the 3203 but I think it should work just fine. In my case I don't want to run any high flow hydraulics, backhoe or such, so it should be O.K.

Thanks