Adding rear remote and 3rd function FEL Kubota L4240

brianrohr13 · Jan 4, 2020

I've been studying this amazing write up. Thank you Piston great job, it's got me on the right track but I still have a few questions.
https:// QQQ.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/232020-how-i-added-rear-remote.html

Use your imagination on the links I posted to reconstruct them, i changed the w's to q's. I tried to post links and it failed because I haven't been an active enough forum member.

I currently have 0 remotes on my kubota l4240. I have 50 acres, 37 tillable that is all going to hay this year for me to bale myself. Last year I ran a couple hoses up to the curl function on the loader and that is how I lifted the gate on my 4x4 round baler and lifted the mower. I'm not doing that again.
So I only need 1 remote there. I also have a backblade with hydrolic angle that I bought 6-7 years ago because price was right. I've never used it yet, but I knew someday I'd have a tractor. Since this spring, now I have that tractor. Time to add remotes.

So, what is my need today?? 1 remote. What an I going to do? Install 5

I want top and tilt. That's two. I want to be capable of running a blade that does offset, angle, and tilt.....ya know, the works. That makes 5. Or maybe a box blade with hydrolic teeth and guide wheel. All the fun stuff I've been reading about in this forum. I could get by with 4, so my theory is go five.

I also have a backhoe. Kubota BH92. I've been studying and I realize that the hoses I have at the back of my tractor are in the power beyond loop. Those plug right into the backhoe and send PB fluid to that valve. Here's what I'm thinking. Go from those hoses as is (or Trace back and remove and run new) to the new 5 spool on the fender just like in Piston's install. From there, top and tilt is 2. I got three left.

This is where more questions start. T&T are both double acting float, I think. The other 3. Can one be backhoe/wood splitter capable. I need to size the current hose that is at the back of my tractor and make sure the new valve is same flow and will be sufficient to run backhoe. The thought there is a valve that I turn on and it stays on. I don't want to have to bungee. But I'm not sure what to call that valve. Then whatever I plug in there (correct me if I'm wrong) needs to have it's own open center valve because that remote it's acting like a power beyond just pushing that fluid?? So with everything I'm talking about (and whatever you guys wanna point out) how do I configure the 5 spools? There is single acting, double acting, float, detent, ect. Can float and detent be on the same one??? I think I've given a pretty good run down of how I would use the 5 spools. I'll try and post a picture of the configure options. Here's a link to the one I'm looking at.

https:// QQQ.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Sectional-Control-Valves/5-Spool-Prince-SV-Sectional-Control-Valve-Open-Center-w-Power-Beyond-9SV-5-Y.axd

I'd like to learn what all those valve options mean. I know some I won't need for the rear remotes but it would be nice to know even things like metering spool and motor spool because maybe it's possible I need something like that when I move on to the FEL 3rd function project. Is metering or motor what you need to run a skid steer power rake? I dunno. Not even sure I have enough hydro flow to run a power rake but definitely something I want to look into. I have a spot that needs to be raked and if I could rent a rake and use it, that'd be great. I know someday I'll have a grapple. I would also like to add cylinder for FEL attachment locking pins. So maybe I need third and 4th function FEL. Is what I'm talking about wanting a true FEL function? I dunno how all those terms apply just yet and I'm not even sure what skid steer type equipment I could run off the FEL. I just want a setup that allows me to push it to the limit and then slightly over. :laughing:

I also need to figure out if I should do the front and rear projects seperate or at the same time.

Ok, I think I've said enough. I tried to paint the entire picture and I appreciate whatever advice ya'll give me.

Attached is the picture. Hopefully someone can explain all these options.

RNeumann · Jan 4, 2020

Wow that’s a lot to digest! I would skip the valve you link and get something like this.

BUCHER - 21 GPM MANUAL DIRECTIONAL CONTROL STACK VALVES | Trausch Dynamics

You build the valve “stack” just like you want it. You can add the electric over hydraulic for your 3rd function to the stack or do it separate. Note I linked the 21gpm valves but you may want bigger valves.

Basically power beyond out of the loader control valve, into the stack and back into the case. If you added a separate third function valve it can be before or after your stack.

Scorpion makes the best joystick switch for you electric over hydraulic valve. The basic two button is all you need for the third function.

ericm979 · Jan 4, 2020

You don't need float for top and tilt. It doesn't hurt, but the implements should handle it. What you're looking for in a valve to operate a backhoe is "detent". In addition to the usual springs that return the valve to center (off), there is a detent position like the float position on your loader. Except that rather than putting the valve in float, it keeps it on.

You should get valves with capacity more than your tractor's loader and accessory circuit (not both that and the steering circuit together as many manufacturers report). But not too much more or it will be difficult to feather the valves.

The electric over hydraulic stackable valves seem to be a lot more expensive than the standalone ones that plug into a DO3 subplate. For whatever that is worth.

The surpluscenter catalog is useful, and they're a good place to buy stuff from.

brianrohr13 · Jan 4, 2020

Can you explain a little more about not needing float for top & tilt? I was under the impression that it was a must.

RNeumann · Jan 5, 2020

No float for top and tilt! The 3 pt has no down pressure so all the float is in the 3 pt. The 3 pt moves up and down (down to the level you set it) to follow the contours of the ground. The top and tilt are simply hydraulically adjustable top and side links. If they moved or floated after you set them that wouldn’t work at all!

brianrohr13 · Jan 5, 2020

Does a 3 point move each side independently as it floats or float all as one??

I was under the impression the option to float the side link, when necessary, would follow the contours of the ground better than how the 3 point does. And a nice benefit of the option to float the top link is when hooking up to implements you can put it in float, hop off the tractor and push/pull the cylinder right where you want it.

RickB · Jan 5, 2020

I would spec out a valve with float to control a hydraulic top link. No doubt.

RNeumann · Jan 5, 2020

brianrohr13 said:
Does a 3 point move each side independently as it floats or float all as one??

I was under the impression the option to float the side link, when necessary, would follow the contours of the ground better than how the 3 point does. And a nice benefit of the option to float the top link is when hooking up to implements you can put it in float, hop off the tractor and push/pull the cylinder right where you want it.

Adding a float detent won’t add much, if any, cost- if you think you need it, and are building your own valve stack you can do what you want.

ptsg · Jan 5, 2020

Float on top link is nice to have. Specially with mowers or flail mowers. As it will move freely and contour the ground.

ericm979 · Jan 5, 2020

brianrohr13 said:
Does a 3 point move each side independently as it floats or float all as one??

The 3pt arms go up and down together but there's play in various parts that allow a moderate amount of angle in the implemnt. And many wide implements like flails and ditch bank mowers have a way to allow the implement to tilt, like a vertical slot or short linkage arm for one side of the 3pt.

brianrohr13 said:
I was under the impression the option to float the side link, when necessary, would follow the contours of the ground better than how the 3 point does. And a nice benefit of the option to float the top link is when hooking up to implements you can put it in float, hop off the tractor and push/pull the cylinder right where you want it.

That would be useful, it's not something I'd considered. My Branson's factory remotes don't offer float. When hooking up an implement I can reach the levers from behind the tractor and operate the cylinders to get them in the right position. Of course that require having the engine running. I turn it off or put the PTO drive in neutral before messing with the implement's PTO shaft if it has one.