Advice Needed On Hydraulic Side Link Install

[von-mil]

I am considering adding a hydraulic side link to my B3030. A year ago, I added a new control valve and a hydraulic top link and am now looking into completing the full Top-n-Tilt package. I will need another control valve for the side link and will probably go with a valve that has a float function.

I bought the hydraulic cylinder for the top link from the Surplus Center website and am happy with how it works. For the side link, I need a cylinder that has a clevis pin setup on both ends and Surplus Center has a few different ones to choose from with a 4'' stroke. However, I am afraid that none of these cylinders will fit on my B3030 because the clevis ends do not have the same angle as the manual side link that I am replacing. In other words, the clevis end forks extend straight out from each end of the cylinder whereas the manual side link has the forks welded on at a slight angle. Here is what my current side links look like:



And here is the cylinder I am considering:



I guess my question is am I going to have alignment or binding problems using the new cylinder as it is. I know others have cut off the forks from their existing side link, cut off the forks from a new cylinder, and weld the old ends in place of the new. That is something I do not want to do.

Has anyone encountered this situation in the past and, if so, what was your remedy/solution. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated. Thanks

 

[/pine]

Using the original ends (of the side link) are the way to go...They are made that way for a reason and changing one side is likely to damage other parts of the 3PH...

You don't say why you don't want to do this but it's the only way to do it right IMO...
There is no need to destroy the existing (manual adjustable) side link...you can use the solid link (or buy one) and use those ends...moving the manual adjustable link to the left side will give you even more tilt if needed...

good luck...

 

[kennyd]

Contact Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics for one that will fit properly.

 

[TripleR]

What kennyd said, Brian will make one just right for you and as mentioned my manual adjustment link was moved to the left.

Good luck, you'll love it.

 

[von-mil]

Using the original ends (of the side link) are the way to go...They are made that way for a reason and changing one side is likely to damage other parts of the 3PH...

You don't say why you don't want to do this but it's the only way to do it right IMO...
There is no need to destroy the existing (manual adjustable) side link...you can use the solid link (or buy one) and use those ends...moving the manual adjustable link to the left side will give you even more tilt if needed...

good luck...

That's pretty much the answer I was expecting. I just threw the question out there in case someone had been down this same path before and could relate their experience - good or bad - with using the stock ends of a lift cylinder without modifying them.

The reason I didn't want to go through the cutting/welding route is:
(a) I'm not a welder
(b) I would be without the use of my 3-pt hitch for however long it would take for someone to fabricate the new link
(c) Buying a second non-adjustable side link just to sacrifice it for the fork ends is another $40 or so

I'm just trying to keep the overall cost down since the Kubota control valve kit and associated hardware is rather pricey.

I'll be re-thinking whether I want to go forward with this side link project. I'm not going to risk damaging the 3-pt hitch or, worse yet, the lift arms that are attached to the transmission. Ideally, I can try to find a used left-hand side link that can be used as both a template and as material for a fabbed hydraulic link.

Thanks for your input.

 

[ovrszd]

You've probably already went thru this mental process, but here goes. What are you doing that requires tilt? How often are you doing this?

You have to commit to this one since it's going to be rather expensive.

I use TnT on my Kubota and would hate to not have it. I use it a LOT.

My Ford doesn't have either and so far I'm content with that.

If you are determined that it's a necessity and the benefit outweighs cost, then do it right. Spend the money. Then enjoy the modification.

I bought cylinders, modified the ends and made my own. I saved considerable cost. But I had an equipped shop and the minimum skills that it required to complete it. You have to make the ends of your tilt cylinder match the technical shape/design of the factory system. Although you might think it just looks weird, it's shaped that way for a purpose. I also moved my factory adjustable link to the left side, this adds even more adjustment.

 

[ovrszd]

I'll add some pics, and as Larry said, if they are worthless to you, I'll remove the post.

 

[Fallon]

Contact Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics for one that will fit properly.

Ya, he's got good prices, great quality & support. You'll be a lo better off getting one custom built to the right specs than rolling your own with wrong sized parts & misfitting ends.

 

[ovrszd]

Ya, he's got good prices, great quality & support. You'll be a lo better off getting one custom built to the right specs than rolling your own with wrong sized parts & misfitting ends.

Oh wait a minute Skippy,,,, that totally depends on your talent. I built a system for less money than Brian could sell it to me for. And I did it without any wrong sized parts and misfitting ends. I consider Brian a friend. He doesn't begrudge me building my setup. Brian will help you do whatever you want him to help you with. And he will commend you for taking the initiative.