Advice on first tractor purchase.

[drysalty]

Good morning , my wife and I will be moving to a new home in a week or so. The new place has 15 acres, 4 or so are presently cleared , a small yard around the house, a small pasture behind the barn and a big pasture behind that. The balance is wooded. We are planning to buy a machine for snow removal, mowing the pastures and clearing more around the house and pulling some firewood off the wooded section.

I致e been searching on line and lurking here to learn about tractors as I have very little first hand experience. What I知 thinking of is a 26 hp tractor with a rotary cutter a set of forks and a grapple. I致e been to a kubota dealer and he was pointing me towards a B2650 a Kioti dealer had me looking at a CK2610 and a Mahindra dealer had me looking aid a 1626 and 1635, 1533 and a 2638(?). The kubota dealer is 10 minutes from the new home, Kioti is 40 minutes and the Mahindra dealer is an hour away.

I watched ayou tube video the other day where the guy said you could save yourself thousands by buying your second tractor first. I thought that was great advice so I壇 like to ask the group for their experience so I can buythe right machine for my needs the first time around.

Thanks for any advice !

 

[nybirdman]

You are on the right track size wise;4WD,FEL and HST would be a must.You also may want to look at the L2501 Kubota.The L is slightly bigger and similar price as the B2650.

 

[Tractorable]

Yea, I agree it’s good advice to buy your second tractor first. I’m thinking the B series is little too small. If you have ten acres of woods and want a grapple you’ll want a tractor with enough weight to counterbalance the loads you’ll be carrying. I’d hedge towards a Kubota L series or better yet an L3560 or similar from another manufacturer. 2500-3500lb bare tractor weight would be ideal, the more the better.

 

[jeff9366]

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to identify potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.


Kubota B2650 weighs 2,293 pounds, bare tractor.

Kubota L2501 weighs 2,623 pounds bare tractor. (larger displacement engine)

Both have the three (3) range HST transmission you need. Either will serve you well.


A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

 

[jeff9366]

What I'm thinking of is a 26 hp tractor with a rotary cutter a set of forks and a grapple.

If you buy ample capacity Pallet Forks you do not need the complication of a grapple for four to six working acres plus woods.

You will find a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment very useful.
Ratchet rake llc - Google Search

 

[rmk700]

Sounds like a great new property.

This would be likely my choice. I know people don't use the backhoe much, but I have found it gets used much more than expected.

https://www.kubotausa.com/products/tractors/tractor-loader-backhoe/l47

 

[drysalty]

I am starting to understand the importance of tractor weight, it seem the kubota are pretty light relative to their competition and the loader lift is pretty light. Maybe Im Missing something but I read it in the brochures and it’s all over the inter webs too. Can anyone comment on why this doesn’t put the kubota at a disadvantage relative to comparable competitors?

Presently I’m leaning towards the Kioti as my wife and I visited the local Kioti dealer and got a very good feeling there. The owner spent quite a while with us and wasn’t in a rush even though it was closing time. It’s a family business and it’s been around for a while and the owner has been in the tractor business his whole life. I’d consider the CK 3510 if it was a reasonable up charge from the 2610 . I’d like the extra power but I’m not sure if I’d opt for the SE, are the other add ins on that model worth the extra cost? The Kioti dealer quoted me a cash price on a 2610 of 23700 for the tractor and loader, a 60” Kodiak rotary cutter a titan grapple and a set of forks. That’s about a thousand lower than I had gotten from anyone else. Can anyone comment on that quote? It’s pretty close to what I was quoted for an L2501 with no attachments.

I really liked the Mahindra 1626 too. That machine felt very comfortable to me and I liked that it was relatively quiet, especially at idle.

I should also mention I’ve gotten quotes on LS XG3025 and XR3135 . I haven’t been to see them in person as it’s a bit of a ride to get there. I don’t know much about the dealer but the fact that I had to chase him for some numbers I find a little off putting.

Keep the information coming, I’m grateful for al of it.

 

[hks003]

For that kind of property, I'd look at the L series or equivalent like others have mentioned. Maybe even the 35-40 Hp range. I have a 38 horse LS, and I've been able to do a few things I didn't plan on doing while tractor shopping that a smaller B series or LS XJ, MT, etc might not have handled just from the weight perspective. Think moving fallen trees, using a ratchet rake like Jeff has pictured to pull some nasty stuff out by the roots, using the front loader to pick up the front of lawn mowers, four wheelers, etc. The kiotis are heavy for their size and I hear good things.

 

[TheMadOne]

You are on the right track size wise;4WD,FEL and HST would be a must.You also may want to look at the L2501 Kubota.The L is slightly bigger and similar price as the B2650.

Yea, I agree it痴 good advice to buy your second tractor first. I知 thinking the B series is little too small. If you have ten acres of woods and want a grapple you値l want a tractor with enough weight to counterbalance the loads you値l be carrying. I壇 hedge towards a Kubota L series or better yet an L3560 or similar from another manufacturer. 2500-3500lb bare tractor weight would be ideal, the more the better.

I had a standard L, any amount of logging was...difficult with it. It simply didn't have enough weight in it to pull properly(even with filled tires), made skidding larger logs unfun. I do wish I could have kept it and gotten the L3560, having two tractors would have allowed for a lot more flexibility than one. I've sat on a B2650, it has a nice layout, a lot closer in ergos to the grand Ls than the standards. The cabbed version is loud.

If you buy ample capacity Pallet Forks you do not need the complication of a grapple for four to six working acres plus woods.

You will find a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment very useful.
Ratchet rake llc - Google Search

I like my grapple, it does a much nicer job with less maneuvering than forks, feels more secure as well. I also pretty much retired my ratchet rake when I got the grapple. Not gonna sell it, but the amount of use I have for it is much lower than it was. Land clearing with a root grapple and box blade is much faster than with the ratchet rake, since I can clear what I take off easily.

I am starting to understand the importance of tractor weight, it seem the kubota are pretty light relative to their competition and the loader lift is pretty light. Maybe Im Missing something but I read it in the brochures and it痴 all over the inter webs too. Can anyone comment on why this doesn稚 put the kubota at a disadvantage relative to comparable competitors?

Presently I知 leaning towards the Kioti as my wife and I visited the local Kioti dealer and got a very good feeling there. The owner spent quite a while with us and wasn稚 in a rush even though it was closing time. It痴 a family business and it痴 been around for a while and the owner has been in the tractor business his whole life. I壇 consider the CK 3510 if it was a reasonable up charge from the 2610 . I壇 like the extra power but I知 not sure if I壇 opt for the SE, are the other add ins on that model worth the extra cost? The Kioti dealer quoted me a cash price on a 2610 of 23700 for the tractor and loader, a 60 Kodiak rotary cutter a titan grapple and a set of forks. That痴 about a thousand lower than I had gotten from anyone else. Can anyone comment on that quote? It痴 pretty close to what I was quoted for an L2501 with no attachments.

I really liked the Mahindra 1626 too. That machine felt very comfortable to me and I liked that it was relatively quiet, especially at idle.

I should also mention I致e gotten quotes on LS XG3025 and XR3135 . I haven稚 been to see them in person as it痴 a bit of a ride to get there. I don稚 know much about the dealer but the fact that I had to chase him for some numbers I find a little off putting.

Keep the information coming, I知 grateful for al of it.

Kubota is light due to them being the largest import brand. If each BX costs "X" to ship, and you can lower the weight by a few pounds without overly effecting performance, that becomes money in the bank for both the shipping company and Kubota. It's been a point of contention for a long time. The new M8 row crop tractors are the first ones that Kubota has gone against their usual policy and are actually heavier than most of their competitors. They're also built by Versatile in Canada, so there's no ocean to cross with them either.

Kioti is solid, they're cheaper due mainly to being the new kid on the block. I would have considered them if there was a dealer in my area. Mahindra...check who actually makes the tractor you're interested in. The 1626 is made by Mitsubishi, I believe. It's a good machine, though I've always been a bit wary of Mahindra parts support, since they change not only models, but manufactures fairly often. May just be a problem in my head. LS is the maker of the smaller New Holland/Case models. Reportedly dealer/company support from LS can be very hit or miss, though that's true of every brand to some degree.

Buy the tractor that puts the biggest smile on your face.

 

[drysalty]

How do you like your LS? I like what I’ve read and the nearest dealer is at least 70 miles away and he’s the only one that I see anywhere around here so I haven’t seen one in person.

 

[jeff9366]

I am starting to understand the importance of tractor weight, it seem the kubota are pretty light relative to their competition and the loader lift is pretty light. Maybe Im Missing something but I read it in the brochures and it痴 all over the inter webs too. Can anyone comment on why this doesn稚 put the kubota at a disadvantage relative to comparable competitors?

RE: CK2610/3510 Vs. L2501 = 2,600 - 2,700 pounds bare tractor weight.

Smoothness of control operation is as important as lift capacity, within limits.
Some never use full FEL lift capacity due to not mounting enough counterbalance weight on the Three Point Hitch.
Heavy tractor work is done with Three Point Hitch mounted implements, not with FEL.
VIDEO: Let's Talk: Loader LIES! How specifications can be manipulated. - YouTube

Kubota has 50% market share for compact tractors in USA. Deere has 20% market share for compact tractors in USA. All the other brands mentioned here compete for remaining 30% market share.
The adventurous buy outside the mainstream. KIAs from Korea cost less than equivalent model Toyotas from Japan.

Kubota and Kioti claim to make all tractor components, less tires, in their own plants.

If you are 6' tall or wear a size 12 or larger shoe it is critical to sit on every machine to see how well it fits you.

I have owned two economy tractors. Now I owned a deluxe Kubota 'Grand L'. At age 72 the heavier weight, more spacious operating station and deluxe features make tractor opertion and implement mounting much easier.

You or the dealer will have to transport tractor for service occasionally. Tractor transport for service involves four travel segments. Cost $2.00 per mile. 40 miles X 4 = 160 X $2= $320 transportation.
((My six mile distant dealer charges me $50 for tractor transportation. 6 miles X 4 = 24 X $2 = $48.))

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.




TRACTOR BRAND LONGEVITY: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...defunct-tractor-manufacturers.html?highlight=

 

[Egon]

For the OP your original choices should work well. The pasture mowing may consider a few more Horsepower depending on time available.
Putting a tool bar on the three point, hooking low and a little lift may surprise you on pulling power. Add a full front bucket and the pulling capacity will amaze you. With the full bucket and downward pull on the rear wheels traction is greatly improved.
Loader lift capacity involves lots of different scenarios. The largest factor may be front axle design strength rather than lift capacity.

After warrantee work does not really need to be done at a dealer. Just needs competent people which many different colours have.

eg: I have green. For service work it will go to orange.

 

[hks003]

How do you like your LS? I like what I’ve read and the nearest dealer is at least 70 miles away and he’s the only one that I see anywhere around here so I haven’t seen one in person.

I'm guessing this was directed to me? I really like it. It's a G3038, which is the pre tier IV emissions version of the XG3040. It's a bare bones tractor, shuttle shift, no rear remotes or third function, no cup holders, etc. But, I needed a tractor to work and on a budget, and this fit the bill.

I bought used, so while I was looking for any tractor 30 - 40 Hp, 4x4 and with a loader, I was mostly looking for LS or Kubota. I started out looking for a new holland or Kubota, but I found out LS makes the new holland and figured I'd cut out the middle man and some cash. Those, along with John deere, are the dealers I have within 45 minutes of me, and that was a requirement since I'm no mechanic by any means. The green machine was ruled out because of the plastic hood and fenders, along with a substantial price difference even amongst used.

Like I said, I bought used, so I couldn't pass this tractor up because it didn't have luxuries. It's a solid machine that has done everything I could ask plus some (it withstood my dad's hard use...).

I test drove some of the newer LS's at the dealer, and the XR series is solid. It's got all the luxeries mine doesn't on essentially the same frame. But, if you're ok with open cab and no cup holders, the XG series can be had with an HST and you can add more hydraulic valves.

But again, I've heard good things about the Kioti line, so if the LS dealer is giving you the run around, not to mention the distance, and the kioti place is working with you and is close by, I don't think you'd regret the kioti.

Attached are a few pictures of mine.

 

[drysalty]

As I continue to read and absorb information I’m wondering if I would be better served with a L 3301, CK3510se, or 1635/ 1533 ? A couple thousand more for about 40% more power. Does anyone have any ithoughts on bumping up to the 35 HP class as a first machine?

 

[jeff9366]

Additional horsepower will mostly be helpful with PTO-powered implements. The only PTO-powered implement you listed in Post #1 is a mower. More horsepower will allow tractor to power a wider mower, therefore you can complete mowing applications in less time......but the area you want to mow is less than four acres, possibly two acres, net of house, garage, driveway, etc.

For ground engagement tasks and sheer 'grunt' tractor weight is the key metric, although there has to be a certain balance between tractor weight and tractor horsepower.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second and (narrowly) rear wheel ballast third.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!


With four cleared acres and aspiration of clearing more slowly, I think your original choices adequate.

The diversity of opinions offered on T-B-N is its strength. Eventually you have to decide yourself.


VIDEO: So you want to TRADE UP for a new Tractor? - TMT - YouTube

 

[drysalty]

My only reason for considering the 35 horse options is the possibility of changes to the usage in the future. The wooded section is somewhat hilly, it’s not what I consider steep by any means but I wouldn’t want to find out that I need more grunt to pull a load up one of the in the future. This goes back to the notion of buying your second tractor first.

 

[TheMadOne]

My only reason for considering the 35 horse options is the possibility of changes to the usage in the future. The wooded section is somewhat hilly, it’s not what I consider steep by any means but I wouldn’t want to find out that I need more grunt to pull a load up one of the in the future. This goes back to the notion of buying your second tractor first.

I always felt the L3301 was overpowered for its weight. I obviously never tried the L2501 on my hills, so I can't say if it would have bogged down, but I almost never ran out of power before traction.

 

[duffer]

I too, was looking for my first tractor in the 25-25+ hp range. Checked out all the brands within reason around me. Thankfully, I ran into a dealer who really honed in on the kind of work I would do now, and in 3-5 years. He told me a 30 hp would work, which is what I was leaning toward. But he suggested going to to the 38 hp range, because of the added weight, bigger FEL capacity and lift, and hp at the PTO.

Luckily there was a deal on the 38 hp model that let me buy it for essentially the same price as the 30 hp model. I am ever thankful that I stepped up.

If your budget allows for it, go with the heavier and more powerful version. You won't regret it.

 

[jjp8182]

Since it seems most of the tractor advice is pretty much covered, when it comes to the FEL it's worth finding out what size/capacity bucket is stock for the tractor as that will likely tell you more about the practical lifting capacities than the spec sheets.

The other thing to pay attention to on the FELs is the reach height and distances, and consider what makes sense for your applications.

Overall, it really comes down to determining what your applications/tasks are (or will be) and how quickly you want to do them (and if they impose and absolutes on performance/size). It's also worth keeping in mind that power is great for running the PTO, but all the power in the world doesn't matter if you can't transmit it to the ground (which is where weight, tire type, 2WD vs. 4WD all play a role). Then it's just a matter of budget and quality of dealer (which is important since you'll likely be working with them as long as you own the tractor).

Edit: Just for illustrative purposes, I've had times where I've had the tractor in Low, 4WD on, the rear differential locked and had all four wheels spinning ...hasn't happened often, but it has happened in a few different soil conditions and turf types. In pretty much all cases it's happened when trying to do more than the tractor could handle all at once. I've also maxed out the lifting capacity a time or two. However, I'm completely happy with the tractor I have as does what I bought it for, and most of the time I've run into limitations I've been able to work around them. .....which for me is just a fact of life as even I had a much larger machine, I'd probably find harder tasks, or attempt to do my existing ones at the limits of the machine. ...... so as I hinted at above, sometimes it's good to have an idea of how fast you want/need to get something done, and then start figuring out how fast your budget will allow you to do them (which may ultimately drive the size of the machine to buy).

The only other thought is that sometimes it's also worth looking at other types of machines (e.g. skid steers, compact wheel loaders, compact telehandlers, etc. ) just to verify that a tractor is indeed the best option for doing the tasks you need/want to do.

 

[drysalty]

I did a run way down south today and looked at the LS dealer I had emailed with. I thought the machine was ok but the dealership didn’t do a lot for me. I also looked in on two other dealers on the way home. I checked on Mahindra and New Holland and refreshed my memory on the 1626 and 1635 which I am still thinking about and then I ended up at the Kioti dealer. I think I’m going to end up at the Kioti dealer. They just seem to want to do business with me without a lot of salesmanship baloney. Plus the tractors themselves appeal to me. I’m back to pondering about the relative benefits of putting a bunch of options on a 2610 or to just buy a 3510SE with all the bells and whistles already there and getting the extra power should I ever grow into an application that required it.