Allmand TLB 25K (not hydraulics)

[n1iwv]

Hi All;
I am not sure where to post this..but..my Allmand TLB 25K quite moving forward and back...
Went through the usual diagnostics... Pump..TorqMotor,,Fluid...
Found that the drive coupler spline had been stripped out. The part is no loner available (made of unattainium)
A local machine shop is doing the repair. ( I can provide details)
I want anyone who has one of the machines to know that I have all the info on the hydraulic systems (pump motors..etc).
If you need info, please ask.
I will post pics of the repair.
Ed

 

[n1iwv]

Here's a picture of the drive coupler (center)and TorqMotor (left) before I sent it out to the local machine shop.
The splines in the coupler were stripped out.
The machine shop took the 1-1/4" 14T Splined "WeldaCoupling" from G & G Mfg (left) and integrated /welded it into the center of the hub (see below)

 

[ptsg]

Looks like a nice and solid repair.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Hi All;
I am not sure where to post this..but..my Allmand TLB 25K quite moving forward and back...
Went through the usual diagnostics... Pump..TorqMotor,,Fluid...
Found that the drive coupler spline had been stripped out. The part is no loner available (made of unattainium)
A local machine shop is doing the repair. ( I can provide details)
I want anyone who has one of the machines to know that I have all the info on the hydraulic systems (pump motors..etc).
If you need info, please ask.
I will post pics of the repair.
Ed

I have the same machine and it was previously owned by Taylor rental as well… small world. Any idea on some replacement tie rods? I believe a moog es2171 would be a fairly close match but I haven’t ordered them yet.

 

[n1iwv]

I have the same machine and it was previously owned by Taylor rental as well… small world. Any idea on some replacement tie rods? I believe a moog es2171 would be a fairly close match but I haven’t ordered them yet.

According to the manual...the Tie Rod Ends are part number 920291. You should be able to reuse the Tie Rod Stud, and Jam Nuts. Check out www.allmandtractorparts.com. I haven't had much luck getting parts from that site, but it may be worth a try. I have found most parts are fairly generic. The rear differential is a Dana 44, all of the bearing are available at NAPPA. Take the parts down to your favorite auto store and see if the can match it up. Good Luck

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

According to the manual...the Tie Rod Ends are part number 920291. You should be able to reuse the Tie Rod Stud, and Jam Nuts. Check out www.allmandtractorparts.com. I haven't had much luck getting parts from that site, but it may be worth a try. I have found most parts are fairly generic. The rear differential is a Dana 44, all of the bearing are available at NAPPA. Take the parts down to your favorite auto store and see if the can match it up. Good Luck

That’s what I love about these tractors, almost everything is generic. As far as the allmand tractor parts website I have used them for seal kits but I was quoted around $160 I believe it was for the tie rod set which I just couldn’t justify spending when I have seen the individual tie rods for less than $10 a piece. So $10x4 plus a piece of 14mm threaded rod. I’ll pull the trigger at some point but for now the wheels are pointing close enough in the same direction that it hasn’t made it onto the needs list and stays on the wants list

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Hi All;
I am not sure where to post this..but..my Allmand TLB 25K quite moving forward and back...
Went through the usual diagnostics... Pump..TorqMotor,,Fluid...
Found that the drive coupler spline had been stripped out. The part is no loner available (made of unattainium)
A local machine shop is doing the repair. ( I can provide details)
I want anyone who has one of the machines to know that I have all the info on the hydraulic systems (pump motors..etc).
If you need info, please ask.
I will post pics of the repair.
Ed

So I was digging out some still half frozen grass/dirt for a parking pad yesterday. Trying to beat the rain and load up my dump trailer I came in a little fast at a the pile I was removing. Sure enough I heard a boom followed by clack clack clack and lost being able to drive foward or back. I tore into the tractor a little bit to see what’s going on. I first saw a massive vine wrapped between parking brake band and cut that to remove it. Then I noticed the nuts that hold the drive motor on were loose. I tightened those and I was hoping this was going to solve my problem but did not. With the stabilizers down and wheels in the air the machine seems to work normal for foward and reverse, but once pressure is applied to the wheels I have no movement when I push the pedal. I’m thinking best case my tractor is having the same problem yours did. I can see the shaft of the gear motor moving but it is not engaging the coupler piece. I have the tractor home now and will begin to look into it further. Any tips on removing the motor from the differential/coupler or does it just slide out once the 3/4 nuts are removed?

 

[n1iwv]

Sorry to hear this. Same exact thing happened to me. With the tractor up on the stabilizers, I could get motion to the rear wheels, but I could stop them with mu hand. It ended up being stripped out splines in the drive couple (your picture). It was the last thing I checked. So I had already looked at the rear differential (Dana 44) and pulled the hydo pumps off the engine. My Hdro motor is a little different than the one in your picture. I have a 4 bolt mount. Looks like you have 2 bolt mount. The motor is heavy. I used a ratchet strap attached to the cross bar on the ROPs and was able to manage it out of the spine. You'll probably have to take the hydraulic lines off the motor. My hydraulic hoses were not flexible enough to maneuver the motor. If you disconnect those lines have a couple of 5 gallon buckets to catch the hydo oil.
I'm still trying to put mine back together and I am having all kinds of problems. I'll need to sort them out one at a time.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Sorry to hear this. Same exact thing happened to me. With the tractor up on the stabilizers, I could get motion to the rear wheels, but I could stop them with mu hand. It ended up being stripped out splines in the drive couple (your picture). It was the last thing I checked. So I had already looked at the rear differential (Dana 44) and pulled the hydo pumps off the engine. My Hdro motor is a little different than the one in your picture. I have a 4 bolt mount. Looks like you have 2 bolt mount. The motor is heavy. I used a ratchet strap attached to the cross bar on the ROPs and was able to manage it out of the spine. You'll probably have to take the hydraulic lines off the motor. My hydraulic hoses were not flexible enough to maneuver the motor. If you disconnect those lines have a couple of 5 gallon buckets to catch the hydo oil.
I'm still trying to put mine back together and I am having all kinds of problems. I'll need to sort them out one at a time.

I’m pretty sure the doubled up nuts rattled loose and that’s what caused the shaft to loosen a bit from the coupler leaving it to strip. Once I pull mine apart if it matches up exactly to yours I’ll prob do the same fix you did. Do you have a name for the machine shop you used? I’m considering using the same shop since you have already used them and they understand what needs to be done. I just have to make sure my hydraulic motor didn’t get twisted up in the process because when I had the wheels off the ground I could see the motor wiggling as it was trying to spin the tires. Luckily I bought a set of those jic cap and plugs off Amazon a year or two ago so if it has the right size I can atleast plug the lines so it’s not dripping everywhere. The kit was around $70 and has made dealing with hydraulic lines a lot easier when running to get new lines made or routing the hoses. Highly suggest a kit like that. What other problems are you having getting yours back together? I’m all ears if you need any help

 

[n1iwv]

The guy that I used is:

Marc Bois
M & B Machining & Welding LLC
11 Spalding Avenue
Nashua, NH 03060-5101
(603)882-4327
mbmachining@comcast.net

He did a great job and it cost $200. The dimension on the shaft on my motor is 1.25 inch in diameter with 14 splines. I bought the weld on coupler on line for for @22.00 dollars

Keyed, Splined & Hex 1 Piece Solid Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com

Keyed, Splined & Hex 1 Piece Solid Couplers,Shaft Couplers,Power Transmission, Spline Shaft Coupler Brand new spline shaft coupler for hydraulic

www.surpluscenter.com

List of problems:
No Crank... Fixed / neutral safety switch
When the engine starts, the tractor wants to go in reverse. No sure what's up with that
Now the engine wont start at all.
I put a full day on it Friday, but it kicked my ass.