ALTENATOR ON OLDER VEHICLE

[RBManufacturing]

Hi Guys,
Well, I am much closer to putting the new V-8 in the old
postal jeep. However, the altenator on the jeep has posts
marked "B", "1" and "2". The mustang altenator is marked
"B" "field" and "ground". Is "1" suppose to be "field" ???
If I remember right from years ago, this is correct, but I
would like another opinion before I fry the system. I had a heck of a time coming up with motor mounts without having
to build new ones myself. Found that 1970 Ford pickup 302
mounts fit well on a 1976 postal jeep frame, and bolt right on.
The original mustang drive shaft was about 5 ft. long. The
original jeep driveshaft was about 2 ft. long. The shaft I had
made for installing the V-8 is 16 inches long. Now I'm
wondering if I am going to need wheelie bars? LOL. Brenda
made a sign on our label machine for the dash that says
"GET IN, SIT DOWN, SHUT UP, AND HOLD ON!!! Can't wait
to see what the little jeep will do off the line! Going to re-
paint it soon. Putting "Gone Postal" on both sides. Anyway,
any help on the alt. wiring is appreciated. Thanks, Rick /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Soundguy]

On GM style 10/12 SI alternators, #1 is field control. it will need switched votlage at that terminal to turn on.. an accy lug ont he key switch is good for this. #2 is the voltage sense and you sould run a wire from there to the battery, so that the lternator's VR can up the charge if there is a big votlage drop betwixt the alternator and the battery. On tractors, many guys just jumper #2 down tot he charge stud.

Is your charge stud marked 'b' Many times you will see them marked as 'B+'.. etc

Soundguy

 

[RBManufacturing]

Thanks Soundguy,
My cousin keeps telling me to put a single wire GM alt. on it.
He says there is just one wire from it to the battery, and no
other wires to worry about. Is that true? JC Whitney offers
a one wire GM alt. in chrome. Might look pretty good. I guess
I would have to fabricate a mounting bracket of some kind
to adapt to my motor. The less wires the better, because I
would like it to look pretty clean around the motor. I am not
putting a hood or fenders back on the front. She will look
like a bucket t from firewall forward. Thanks, Rick

 

[RobertN]

Yep. GM one wire alternator. Simple, quick, and easy. Used one on the Jeep I had. I used a 110 or 120A version, as I had plans for a CB, big stereo, extra lights ect(sold it before getting that far).

 

[Soundguy]

The ne thing I don't like about the 1 wire gm alt's is the excitation rpm... I work with some old tractors that max out at 900 or so rpm.. and ont he gm 1-wire jobs.. depending on pulley size.. 900rpm might not excite them. i much prefer the 3-wire 'auto magic' jobs.. they kick in at 400 rpm and go..

Soundguy

 

[RobertN]

Check out some of the off road/4x4 catalogs and websites. They build them to run low rpm for folks running the rocks and such, that idle for hours creeping in low range, but then need to fire up the winch to get them out of a bind.

My B-in-law has one on his Jeep. His is pretty cool; it is tied to a "Premier" stick welder. He has a remote throttle to control rpm if he needs to weld. And, he run 110v accessories(at the right rpm). I believe his a 120A alternator

 

[heehaw]

you can usually get one of those GM models from autozone, with a lifetime warranty...i have used them on everything from an international cub to a JD 1020: the only problem i ran into, which was solved by using a switch: they pull a little current all the time, so if you go months without starting the equipment, it will pull the battery down
heehaw