The solid spools are very common, for regular differentials, nine inch Ford etc. At the time I was doing mine there was nothing available for front wheel drive transaxles. On mine, a 125 GM, you have to pull the trans all apart to reach the differential. On some of the four speed models the final drive can be separatedd from the main case which would make it much easier. I do not typically rebuild auto transmissions but in this case I was able to pull it off.
An articulated loader build utilizing an automatic transaxle.
- Thread starter roygage
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The solid spools are very common, for regular differentials, nine inch Ford etc. At the time I was doing mine there was nothing available for front wheel drive transaxles. On mine, a 125 GM, you have to pull the trans all apart to reach the differential. On some of the four speed models the final drive can be separatedd from the main case which would make it much easier. I do not typically rebuild auto transmissions but in this case I was able to pull it off.
Subscribed ! I have been thinking of this kind of loader, but never had the time nor need to keep one next to my loader tractor..
The problem is that i design construction machinery by profession, so i will inevitably overrun the budget of a hobby project before i'm satisfied
I feel your pain. Only thing saved my budget was stretching the spending out over about 15 years.
Carlaisle
New member
:cool2: This is AWESOME! :cool2:
I invested a fair bit of thought into how to do something similar but have yet to progress beyond the thinking stage. If you don't mind sharing your hard-won secrets, could I impose upon you to explain more about how you made the articulating joint? It looks like you used a 10 bolt truck hub on one side and did __________ on the other side.
I invested a fair bit of thought into how to do something similar but have yet to progress beyond the thinking stage. If you don't mind sharing your hard-won secrets, could I impose upon you to explain more about how you made the articulating joint? It looks like you used a 10 bolt truck hub on one side and did __________ on the other side.
oliverkronos
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- Nov 25, 2019
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- 1947 farmall "A"
I also, would like to see these as well as the one posted on "Life on Highway 9". Many Thanks,
oliver
LouNY
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- Greenwich, NY
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
Nice work and a handy machine that you have built.
Yes, the hub and spindle used are off a 1970 C-50 Chevy grain truck. On the spindle used a torch cut the bosses off the kings pins went through so the back of the spindle was flush. Then bolted to some heavy, 11/16 steel using the bolt holes in the casting used for the backing plate and steering arms.
I had considered using the the king pin for the joint which allows it to turn right and left. In this case would have cut the heavy cast steel axle itself and mounted it into place. Problem is there is steering axle inclination built into it. Nixed that idea.
What I did use was a pair of stub axles with 5 bolt hubs. They were bought at the local fleet and farm store. The stubs are maybe ten inches long. Both stubs are welded to the back side of the heavy plate the truck hub is bolted to, one points up, one down. The bottom hub bolts up to a steel plate which is welded in solid to the back half of the tractor. The top one bolts to a buttressed plate which bolts to the back half also with 6 heavy bolts. The bolt holes on the plate are drilled a little oversize, maybe a 16th of an inch.
This allows for adjusting bearing preload on the stub axle hubs first then bolting the top plate in place. In short the oversize holes allows some give and take to compensate for future bearing preload adjustment.
Very happy with how it worked out with the exception I do not think the C-50 spindle is going be stout enough. Looked strong laying on the bench, on the machine it looks weak to me.