Another 990 Question

[yellowsocks93]

Sometimes when I try to shift I get a really bad grind like if I am mowing and stop the tractor and mower completely to idle and I can hardly shift. It is not a slow sounding grind but very fast. It does not sound good for the transmission. I do have the clutch push all the way down so are these grinds bad for the tractor. I hardly get them anymore but I still do and I am being very careful when I shift. I always wait a few seconds in between shifts. I wish I had a 990 at work to try. Thanks for any advice on this one.

 

[BGL990]

Well, I don't have my 990 yet but I have driven several vintage Ag. tractors that do more or less the same thing. Some of them seem to simply take several seconds after pushing the clutch before everything in the transmission stops spinning, or at least slows down enough to shift. I recall one or two that *seemed* to have some sort of internal brake on the tranny because if you pushed the clutch down hard you could shift sooner than if you just pushed it "normally". Now I'm not entirely sure on this one, but it seemed sort of like that at the time.

In any event, my point is that without a "real" synchronization mechanism as in an automobile transmission, some grinding is probably inevitable once in a while. As long as you aren't trying to force it into gear it shouldn't cause a problem.

IMHO a little good old fashioned gear grinding is just part of the whole tractor experience - along with the noise, tailbone numbing bumps, dirt in the eyes, cold steel seats .......

I love it!!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Brad.

 

[johnbilt]

Hi

I occasionally have to wait for the tranny to "wind down" to shift. This usually happens when I have the engine revved up, trans in neutral, clutch engaged, and try to start from a complete stop. I think the input shaft to the trans is still spinning even though the clutch is disengaged to shift.

Try reducing the RPM momentarily or wait a few moments to shift. I initially checked with my dealer mechanic last year and he said this is normal.

John

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Try engaging LoadMatch. Having Motion match in the fast setting helps. Also using Cruise (with the automotive style upgrade) is beneficial. Just be careful not to miss the cup holder when putting yer cold drink back...

 

[rockyridgefarm]

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[yellowsocks93]

Your quite the character Rockyridge! Anywho I can't afford all the fancy E-hydro gizmos like you. Might as well put you money in a pile and watch it burn for spending all that money for the E-Hydro! I gotta save up for my next clutch job on the beast. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I am relieved to hear other have this too. I thought my clutch was out of adjustment. I don't shift on the go or anything fancy and wait a few seconds before shifts. I kind of wish the transmission was a syncro like our 970. I just don't want to break it.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Saved up all the money I'd spend on clutches and got the eHydro. And the backhoe! (I don't think I'd be kind to a clutch...)

Sorry to distract yer 990 thread...

 

[Monroe40]

Hi Nick,

I've had this, too. Seems like when I have the RPMs up and I'm coming to a stop, sometimes I'll put the stick in neutral before I've come to a complete stop. Then when I go to shift into gear I get that high speed grind. Like johnbilt said, I'll slow down the RPMs and then it goes in no problem.

I've probably noticed this the most while mowing since I've got the RPMs up at PTO speed. Then I shift gears to change ground speed. I now come to a complete stop and then shift with no problem so that I don't have to keep winding the RPMs back down, shift, and then wind up again.

I hope for a good clutch life. I take my foot off the clutch between shifts. I presently have 298k miles in 18 years on my car's clutch, so I don't think I'm especially hard on clutches. And so far at 56 hours on the 990 I'm still satisfied with the amount of tractor for the money paid.

Dave

 

[yellowsocks93]

I had the habbit of pulling out of gear too until this week I noticed it does not grind when you make a complete stop with the transmission still engaged. But sometimes like after I switch ranges it will grind the first times going into gear since I put the gear shift in N before shifting the range. I may try shifting ranges while in gear to compare. It was to my understanding that you had to switch ranges while the trans was in neutral.

Don't worry about it Rockyridge. All are welcome. We share one common bond: Green <font color="green"> </font>

 

[om21braz]

I assume the SyncShift transmission in say the 40TEN series eliminates the problem you are having (it is fully synchronized ?). Is that correct ? Not trying to highjack you thread either, but being familiar with operating forklifts with standard transmissions - are chances good that I would feel comfortable operating a tractor/FEL with a standard tranny ?

 

[yellowsocks93]

Om21braz,

I used to own a 2001 4300 sync shift before my 990 and the trans was ok. Not the most direct feeling gearbox like the 990. You can only shift on the go. No rolling and shifting into reverse like a true synconized shuttle. I never got a grind in the 2 years I owned it but the shifter would kind of bind up sometimes and not go into gear. I have noticed on the 4000 and 10 series they have the worst range shift levers. Not very positive feeling and the always bind up. The 990 on the other hand never binds when shifting ranges. I used mine for mowing and had no problems with it. I like using gear transmissions but I have always used syncro my whole life so this collar shift is a little change. I operate a JD 380A gear drive forklift at work and it is really no different than the sync shifts on the 4010 series. They have the same sounding transmission whine and everything. With the forklift it is a sync reverser trans with the lever for F or R on the dash so it is quicker to change direction than the 4010 series sync shift. I would bet you are good at using a clutch and it sounds like you are so a sync shift may be a good fit for you but I would look at the power reverser first for more ground speeds and ease of direction change for the loader work. I use a loader on the 4300 and 990 and find it to be no problem but not as fast as a hydro. 12 F and 12 R compared to 9x3 on the sync shift.

 

[timb]

Om21braz - are you looking for a 2WD or MFWD tractor? On the 4000 Tens I think the sync-reverser is the only gear tranny available on the 2WD models and the power-reverser is the only gear tranny on the MFWD versions. Never the twain meet as they say.

Tim

 

[om21braz]

Tim,
Whatever I wind up with will be MFWD. Looking between 4115-4310 Deere or B2410-L3130 Kubota. Trying to decide whether to trade off hydro for HP price-wise. And thanks yellowsocks for your take on the matter. Sorry for interrupting - Ya'll can go back to the JD 990 talk !

 

[rockyridgefarm]

And the 4x10 2wd syncs are gone when dealer stock is gone, No new ones being built...

 

[zuiko]

I don't think I've really encountered this, though I do not shift while mowing and I use the foot throttle for everything else... so my RPMs are usually at idle while shifting. Might have something to do with that.

 

[yellowsocks93]

I don't think I have anything to worry about. Most of the time it shifts without grinds. Today I drove a Massey Ferguson 1040 compact gear drive tractor. You gotta put it in S gear to start. It is a collar shift as it did grind when shifting when stopped. Worked good yet for being 20 years old about. Nice little tractor. If I did not have a Deere I would get the Massey compact.